fed 2 RF vertical aligment adjustment problem

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Hi, I'm trying to correct the rangefinder vertical alignment in my fed2e. I'm rotating the inner dial of the round rf window, but it doesn't make images coincide. Mis-aligment varies cyclically when I rotate, but I can't eliminate it completely. The same adjustment in my fed3 was succesful.
Thank in advance for help
regards, Piotr
 
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You have to adjust both the vert thing you've been turning and the infinity adjust horizontal screw to get it right. Turn the vert wedge so the offset error is all in the horizontal, then adjust the infinity screw to bring the images together, repeat if needed.
 
when turning the horiz. screw I'm able to make the points at inf. coincide horizontally, but there is still vertical mis-alignment - the rf (ghost) point is under the second real one. I've read that the vert. adjust. should be made before horizontal, but in my case I can't make points coincide vertically. The rf image never reaches the vertical level of real image, so I can only set the closest offset
As the 'point ' I designated the light from distant street lamp. Actually It's night here
 
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Yes, sounds familiar. The vertical adjustment moves the prism lens under the bezel which you turn, this effects both the vertical and horizontal alignment. This is why it is normally recommended that the vert is settled first. You may have to remove the top casing and adjust the prism position. See the DIY for this at the top of the FSU thread section.
 
I did something different - I took the whole RF lens from fed 3 and fit it in fed 2 body. Now RF works perfect!(?) What is more interesting - the fed 2 bezel works fine on fed 3 - no probs with adjustment. Magic ;)
 
I use this chart for adjusting infinity on my FSU's. I find this to be one of the most accurate ways of adjusting infinity.

The middle of the squares should be the rangefinder base length. Stand at least 10 feet away with the chart taped against a wall. Set your lens to infinity. The black box should merge perfectly with the red box. If it does.......infinity should be spot on.

Almost forgot to mention.....I got this idea from http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-123.html
 

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Thanks for suggestions - I'll give a try the rangefinder adjusting method described above - sounds innovative and promising :). I think it is definetely bezel and inner collar matter, but when I exchanged them between fed 2 and fed3, there wasn't any problem to make an adjustment on both cameras
 
Sometimes you need to go in to make coarse adjustments to the prism carrier.

I know this is an old thread, but I'm having the same exact problem on a Fed 2 as the person who started this thread. Assuming I have the top off, how do I "make coarse adjustments" to the prism carrier?
 
Anyone care to provide direction? I know how to take the top off, but how do I proceed about making fine adjustments to the prism there. Your reply is appreciated.
 
Shameless plug for my own thread but take a look in the stickies at the top of the FSU section. There you'll find instructions on how to adjust the RF. On a FED 2, you do not need to take the top off unless it can't be adjusted as described there, which is rare.
 
Shameless plug for my own thread but take a look in the stickies at the top of the FSU section. There you'll find instructions on how to adjust the RF. On a FED 2, you do not need to take the top off unless it can't be adjusted as described there, which is rare.

Precisely, I followed the sticky, but the vertical cannot be adjusted.
 
Precisely, I followed the sticky, but the vertical cannot be adjusted.

Ok, if it's that far out you'll need to adjust the mirror on the RF arm, which does require the top cover to be removed. Take a look in the Zorki 4 CLA sticky, you'll see photos of the Zorki's mirror and how that adjusts. It's been a while since I've delved into a FED 2 but I'm pretty sure it's much the same arrangement (although I think the mirror is a glass block). Be aware that it's a coarse adjustment, so you'll probably still have to fine-tune it afterwards with the front circular prism.
 
Ok, if it's that far out you'll need to adjust the mirror on the RF arm, which does require the top cover to be removed. Take a look in the Zorki 4 CLA sticky, you'll see photos of the Zorki's mirror and how that adjusts. It's been a while since I've delved into a FED 2 but I'm pretty sure it's much the same arrangement (although I think the mirror is a glass block). Be aware that it's a coarse adjustment, so you'll probably still have to fine-tune it afterwards with the front circular prism.

Thanks but it's a different on the Fed 2. I was able to correct the gross vertical misalignment by taking the top off, unscrewing the block of glued prism (the RF) and putting a thin cardboard shim (2 of them) underneath the prism. I was able to achieve adjustment by untightenning one of the prism fastening screws by half a turn and tightening the other screw in exactly the same way.
 
As soon as I fixed this one, my other Fed 2 started acting up. Lol. I just checked the RF (infinity/close focus) before taking it out for some shoots and low and behold the infinity horizontal is off and the adjustment screw will not turn anymore to the right. It has reached it's end. It's the one you adjust with the 1.2mm screwdriver after you take off the screw covering it. I have to take the top off of this one as well. Boy, you got to love the quality of workmanship issues of soviet cameras. Very inconsistent.
 
OK, so I fixed both cams on vertical and horizontal axis. I'm gonna set these cameras aside for tonight. I can sense that when I wake up tomorrow and pick them up to check, they'll be out of range again. Hahaha, man I'm going nuts. Wish I had the money to buy a decent camera.
 
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