TPPhotog
Well-known
The force was once again too strong and I've now got myself a very nice Fed 2b. Actually it was very strong as I now also have a Industar 50 on the way for it 
The test rolls look good, but I've decided to give it a spring clean and back to it's former glory, but of course a little snag that is catching me out.
I want to get the front plate off to give the curtain gears a clean. Have removed the 4 screws on the front of the plate, 4 screws and lens mount, 3 screws on the front of the top plate (there are none on the back).
The front plate still appears solid Over to those of you who have been through this before please
The test rolls look good, but I've decided to give it a spring clean and back to it's former glory, but of course a little snag that is catching me out.
I want to get the front plate off to give the curtain gears a clean. Have removed the 4 screws on the front of the plate, 4 screws and lens mount, 3 screws on the front of the top plate (there are none on the back).
The front plate still appears solid
Over to those of you who have been through this before please kiev4a
Well-known
I've never dug into a FED 2 but I think it's a lot like a Zorki 5 in that you probably have to remove the round rangefinder lens on the front. the eyepiece on the back, plus the wind and rewind knobs and the shutter speed dial. On a FED 1 the top and guts lift out as a unit. On the FED 2 I believe the top has to be removed seperately. Not positive but I think that's the case.
TPPhotog
Well-known
Many Thanks Wayne that would explain a lot
Sounds like I'll be halfway to being able to clean up the inside of the top plate as well. I'll leave that one until tomorrow and the wine has warn off
Sounds like I'll be halfway to being able to clean up the inside of the top plate as well. I'll leave that one until tomorrow and the wine has warn off
L
Laika
Guest
TPPhotog said:I want to get the front plate off to give the curtain gears a clean. Have removed the 4 screws on the front of the plate, 4 screws and lens mount, 3 screws on the front of the top plate (there are none on the back).
The front plate still appears solid
The front and top (under top plate) are cast as all one piece on a FED2, the shutter crate bolts in from the back. To really get at the curtain gears you looking at a full strip down and the associated rebuild and making sure the curtain are running correctly and the timing is right (big job IMO). But if your not put off by that to get at the gears you need the top cover off, remove some of the components to do with the speed dial and a couple more screws that go down into the shutter crate.
TPPhotog
Well-known
Many Thanks I'm going to have a shot once I get the vulcanite off for a full restore
L
Laika
Guest
TPPhotog said:Many Thanks I'm going to have a shot once I get the vulcanite off for a full restore
Cool, good luck with the restore. The gel type paint stripper is the go for getting the FED vulcanite off, makes a hell of a mess but, best done after getting it down to bare bones
.... hows the shutter curtains on your camera? I made a new set for a friend in red but the camera hasn't gone back together yet, to many projects too little time Your in Devon eh? I was born in Barnstable.
TPPhotog
Well-known
My curtains are looking OK at the moment.
I'm going to get some nice thick gloopy paint stripper tomorrow but haven't told my wife about the mess it will make LOL
I like your red ones they look really cool
Barnstable? A Northern Devonian then
I'm going to get some nice thick gloopy paint stripper tomorrow but haven't told my wife about the mess it will make LOL
I like your red ones they look really cool
Barnstable? A Northern Devonian then