FED 3 slow shutter speed problem

[Permanent]

Once I set a shutter speed somewhere between 1/1 - 1/15(this is where the slow speed mechanism engages) the curtains will not shut. Simply, they just stay open untill I move the winder again. I can hear the slow speed mechanism working, but after it stops curtains don't close.

What could it be?

 

[FallisPhoto]

Once I set a shutter speed somewhere between 1/1 - 1/15(this is where the slow speed mechanism engages) the curtains will not shut. Simply, they just stay open untill I move the winder again. I can hear the slow speed mechanism working, but after it stops curtains don't close.

What could it be?

Could be that you need a CLA. It is almost certainly that your camera has become gunked up with decades worth of crud. You need to have it cleaned, lubricated and adjusted, a standard repair that most camera repair shops do, although most only deal with modern cameras. For an FSU camera, your best bet would probably be an outfit like Kiev USA. If it turns out to be a more serious problem, like that you maybe need a new set of springs, they can overhaul it completely.

 

[wolves3012]

All that happens on slow speeds is that a tiny arm swings out and holds the second curtain release until the timer releases it. Sounds as if that arm is sticking or isn't being pushed back by the timer. Is it on a 3a or 3b? They are similar...you'll certainly need to take the top cover off to see what's going on. Are the faster speeds definitely ok? How about "B" and 1/30th? Sometimes other parts may be the problem too...

 

[gb hill]

I think I would check the spring tension first before you take it apart. Read this.

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30343

 

[wolves3012]

I think I would check the spring tension first before you take it apart. Read this.

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30343

This is exactly why I asked about 1/30th and "B". It's not actually that often needed to adjust the tensions, it usually indicates a complete CLA is needed first. Although, a temporary "fix" can be got sometimes if things aren't too bad!

 

[Permanent]

The 1/30th and B works just fine. It is a FED 3 type B.

I'm good at realising how some mechanics work, but I'm kind of new to FSUs and I don't have any special tools to work with.. I don't think I'd be able to take it apart and make it work again

 

[wolves3012]

The 1/30th and B works just fine. It is a FED 3 type B.

I'm good at realising how some mechanics work, but I'm kind of new to FSUs and I don't have any special tools to work with.. I don't think I'd be able to take it apart and make it work again

Firstly, if you are mechanically-minded the FSU cameras aren't too difficult to work on. Certainly I would not attempt some of the modern SLRs but I'm happy with the FSUs. Removing the top cover on a 3b will take 5 minutes, literally.

Secondly, you will need some basic tools but nothing fancy.

If you look at the Zorki 4 CLA sticky thread, you'll find that a FED 3b is very similar in terms of what you need to do, the differences are pretty obvious. As I said above, make very careful notes on how things come apart and if possible use a digicam to record things.

If you decide to go ahead and you get stuck, just put it aside and post a question on here, we're always happy to help and someone will have done the job themselves. The biggest problem with FSUs is that their value doesn't justify a professional repairman's time in most cases. Most people will just buy another! Remember too that if you mess it up you haven't ruined a priceless jewel.

 

[gb hill]

I'm with Wolves on this. If you have a set of jewlers screwdrivers and some basic tools you can do it. I fixed my FED2 after it started hanging at 60th sec. It was my first time going into a camera and it works great now. I'm fixing to go into my J-3 and coliminate it for my Bessa R. That I'm really not looking foward to, but what the heck. I posted some pictures if your interested in looking. Here is the thread


http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=706726#post706726

 

[Permanent]

Yeah, I've noticed everybody here is really willing to help. That's nice.

And thanks for the tips, I think I'll get to it just tomorrow. It's late here already..

 

[wolves3012]

If you want quick instructions on taking the top cover off, here goes. Takes longer to type than to do and the threads are all normal, left-handed:

1) Remove the RF bezel and the 5 screws (3 on the front, 2 on the back, note that the one by the VF window is the odd man out).

2) Lock the rewind by putting something through the forks inside the body (with the back off!) and unscrew the rewind knob.

3) Slacken both grub-screws in the periphery of the speed-dial and lift it off. I'd suggest you do not remove them and be very careful they don't fall out afterwards - do them back up a couple of turns when the dial is off.

4) Slacken the grub-screw in the periphery of the rewind release collar, then unscrew the collar (Same precautions apply to this screw).

5) Unscrew the film-reminder retainer - use something stout in the 2 holes, like compasses or circlip pliers and take extra care not to let the tool slip. Now take off the dials, making very careful notes exactly what order the parts come off in.

The correct order from the bottom up is: counter dial, spring washer, larger flat washer with ears (engaged on the inner shaft!), reminder dial, smaller flat washer with ears (also engaged on inner shaft - hold the whole lot down while you replace the screw) and lastly the retaining screw with the 2 holes.

6) Remove the 3 screws from the wind lever and lift off. The return spring doesn't fly everywhere so don't worry.

7) Slacken the two screws in the periphery of the dioptre-adjusting ring on the eyepiece and remove it. Same precautions as grub-screws above!

8) Turn the dioptre clockwise (I think, might be anti-clockwise!) as far as possible until you can push it almost flush with the body.

9) You're done - lift the top cover off. It will need some wiggling to get it over the dioptre tube but it will go. Be aware there's a large washer that sits over the tube inside the body. It'll probably fall inside but just don't lose it and remember to put it back before replacing the top!

For anyone else, this procedure is exactly the same for a FED 4 - if there's a meter fitted DO NOT unscrew the left-hand retainer in the middle of the meter calculator dial, and there are 4 screws on the cover not 5.

 

[Permanent]

Uff, I'm stuck on the 5th step. How do you actually unscrew it?

I mean, it turns only one side - along with the mechanism. Just as cocking it, but it won't unscrew in that way. If I turn it CCW, it simply doesn't move..

 

[wolves3012]

Uff, I'm stuck on the 5th step. How do you actually unscrew it?

I mean, it turns only one side - along with the mechanism. Just as cocking it, but it won't unscrew in that way. If I turn it CCW, it simply doesn't move..

It's a normal left-hand thread but it's quite possibly fairly tight. Try and hold the dials still and it may help to cock the shutter first just to stop things turning. Other than that...you might try a few seconds under a pencil-flame gas torch, that often loosens things. Obviously, do take care not to burn yourself if you try that!

 

[Permanent]

Hm, and what about WD-40? It seems to work for anything and anywhere, heh. I just wonder if it'll do no harm.. And I need a better tool there.

Anyway, I've found another detail that should make things more accurate. When the curtains stop open, it's enough to touch the shutter speed knob and they shut. Even the smallest touchie that would move the knob will shut the curtains. Also, it works better when you tip the knob in CCW direction. So I think the hanging has something to do with shutter speed knob.

Oh and the 1/15th works again. Somehow.

 

[wolves3012]

WD40 might work too, just leave it a fair while to work into the threads. Don't overdo it though, the way the thing is made it's not ideal for getting the WD40 where it matters. Leaving it upside down may also be better, after applying and waiting a few minutes.

f you can get the curtains to work at all, it might also work just to keep using it to free things up. I still think a proper CLA would help, regardless.