FED 5 slow shutter speeds problem - too fast

[sherman34]

Hi everyone!
I've recently aquired a FED 5 rangefinder in pristine cosmetic condition, however I've encountered a problem with the slow shutter speeds. While checking the camera out it became apparent that the 1s setting is obviously faster, and after taking measurements I found that all shutter speeds below 1/60 are indeed faster. Here are the results:
1/30=1/45
1/15=1/33 (an entire step faster!)
1/8=1/8.6
1/4=1/4.7
1/2=1/2.3
1s=0.7s
Speeds 1/60 and above are spot on and all speeds, even the slow ones are consistent (so it's not that bad).
I know that there's a separate mechanism that slows the movement of the second curtain. I don't know if it controlls the 1/30 speed, but if it does, then it means that it is not working correctly. Has anyone had a similiar problem before and could give any pointers? Is there a way to adjust this mechanism? How difficult is it to fix/replace?
I'll be disassembling the camera soon to adress this matter but for now I'm just gathering information. It is likely that I'll be able to get another FED 5 body albeit in a worse condition and use it for parts.

 

[rick oleson]

The FED/Zorki system is a bit odd - the 'slow' speed range is 1-2-4-8-15-60, with 1/30 as an odd 'fast' speed tucked in (this is why the 30 position on the dial is out of sequence).

You may be able to adjust the slow speeds by sliding the escapement assembly forward or back on the chassis: forward is faster, back is slower. But if you get it too far back, to the point that the second curtain fails to close, you can get things a little out of synch. The other possibility is to change the mesh of the gears in the escapement - a bit fussier job but it can be done.

I have some notes on this at the link below. This is from a Zorki-4, but the shutter systems are the same in the FED and Zorki series.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/r24b026qebmltx9/AADwl4QlC5Mxc91u-8lia4nfa?dl=0

rick

 

[sherman34]

I opened the camera up and turns out the brass wheel with slots is in a bad condition. The slots for 1/15 and 1/8 are almost one big slot (it was difficult to set it to 1/8 because it often jumped to 1/15 on its own). I tried to fix it but didn't succeed and now its worse 😛 . In order to get to those slots I had to take the slow speed assembly out and so it kinda unwound. All my attempts to make it work again were futile. Besides I think that the big gear with a pole that engages the speed selector jumped a couple of teeth and I'm having problems with the second curtain never coming back after winding and shooting. The part on the escapement assembly that is supposed to make the curtain close doesn't get to that point despite the mechanism stopping. I ordered another FED 5 body that's cheap because it has a dented top cover. I hope that it works and that I'll be able to use it for parts, but that means getting the escapement assembly off without it "resetting". I also don't know how difficult it would be to switch the slotted brass wheel. Maybe I'll just swap the top covers but I think that the dented body might have something wrong with the shutter curtain (the seller claims it works) because it looks like this (creased):

 

[rick oleson]

That curtain might be OK but I would not be surprised to find that it's cracked on the rubberized side, which will lead to "pinhole" light leaks.

 

[sherman34]

I hope there won't be any light leaks. Would they show if I shone a flashlight through? Is it difficult to swap the slotted wheel and the escapement assembly, is the wheel indexed in any way as to prevent installing it the wrong way? Even if I swap those parts and the slow speeds will work that won't fix the 1/30 speed because it is not controlled by the escapement assembly, or is it? I hope I'll get the new body by the end of the week I really want to start using this camera soon, I'm tired of bulky and loud SLRs, I do mostly street photography.

 

[sherman34]

I got the spare parts body. The curtain is junk - the layer of rubber is completely gone. The slotted selector wheel is in great condition however. How to go about swapping it? The way I see it I'm going to have to block the escapement assembly somehow before taking it out, and than get to the brass wheel, unscrew it and put it in the "good" body in the same orientation as the old damaged one. I can see, that when the shutter isn't cocked, the wheels on both bodies are in the same orientation.
Any tips on how not to screw this up?

 

[sherman34]

The FED is fixed. After replacing the escapement assembly and the speed selector wheel everything seems to be working fine, no further adjustments needed. Now I have a bunch of spare parts and a light meter for me to experiment on. I need to find a way to replace the selenium cell with a solar cell from a calculator. I have yet to find one that fits FED 5 body.
Thanks rick for the materials you shared, they helped a lot.

 

[rick oleson]

Congratulations! For future reference, re. your question about spotting pinhole leaks in a shutter curtain: no, a flashlight very often will not show them up, but a small strobe will. Go into a dark room with no back or lens on the camera, hold the strobe against the lens mount and fire the strobe with its test button while looking at the shutter curtain from the rear. Then cycle the shutter and do it again so you can inspect both curtains. Any pinholes in the curtains will light up like bright little stars.