Fed2(B) with a orientation-sensitive shutter issue

[Auto Winder]

I got a Fed 2 (b) in the mail today from Russia, and it has a strange problem with the shutter. Since international registered shipping is very expensive from Norway, I wanted to ask here first, if this is a common problem with an easy fix.

The problem is that usually (let's say 9 times of 10), the shutter will act similar to "B" when set to any speed, so the first curtain will open (partly, depending on speed - fully open at 25, narrow gap at 500) while I hold the button pressed down, and when I release the button, the curtains close again. I discovered an effect of the orientation of the camera, if I point the lens straight upwards or hold the camera upside down, the shutter works normally almost every time, but if I put it back in a normal picture taking position with the lens pointed horizontally, it falls back to the "B" behaviour again. So how can the orientation influence the shutter behaviour? Have anybody seen anything similar and could recommend an easy fix, or should I just send it back and take the (partial) loss of return shipping?

 

[Ko.Fe.]

I don't think something is special here. You just purchased old FSU camera which is due to CLA years if not decades ago. For FED-2 it means disassembly of shutter axles for re-lubrication as well.
Disassembly of FED-2 is easy, main trouble comes with getting back of shutter assembly on body. I couldn't do it by myself. Some have no trouble with it.

If you purchased it from one of the e-bay Russian sellers with huge count of sales, this is what they do. Listing not-working FSU camera as working. I was skunked numerous times by them.
Look for guys with small numbers and clear statement what camera was at least tested. Idealy CLA'ed.

 

[Livesteamer]

Welcome to RFF. If you look at the top of the FSU page there is a long section on how to service a Fed 2 if you feel up to it. The Fed 2 is one of my favorite Russian cameras. Joe

 

[ForestCap]

I haven't encountered the same problem, but i suspect it to be bad lubrication/dirt accumulating. The second shutter curtain, or the cog under its roller, seems to be stuck. This is just my guess.

I've bought three FED-2 on eBay, all listed as working but all had problems. I studied some posts online and kick two of them into working condition. And I asked for partial refund for all three since Swedish post is expensive too. I lost some money but it's cheaper than sending them all back.

FED-2 is a nice camera but I wouldn't say it's reliable. It works when it works. Good thing is it's easier to repair at home in comparison with many other models.

 

[Auto Winder]

Thank you for the welcome and for the advice. Perhaps I shall take a partial refund and try fixing it myself. Could be fun or educational, or both 🙂

 

[Ron (Netherlands)]

Good thing is it's easier to repair at home in comparison with many other models.

hmm...not so sure about that. I repaired a lot of FED2's, Zorki's and Leicas, but the FED2 is at least different and a little more difficult - for the less experienced - than the other models at one point: i.e. the shuttercrate comes off from the back of the camera (see picture below). This means that it is no problem and easy to disassemble the camera, but it is a little harder to get all parts back together again.

This is how it looks when you do a thorough CLA before assembling 🙂

...and some hours later ..... trust me, when it all works, it is very rewarding!

 

[Auto Winder]

hmm...not so sure about that. I repaired a lot of FED2's, Zorki's and Leicas, but the FED2 is at least different and a little more difficult - for the less experienced - than the other models at one point: i.e. the shuttercrate comes off from the back of the camera (see picture below). This means that it is no problem and easy to disassemble the camera, but it is a little harder to get all parts back together again.

<...>

...and some hours later ..... trust me, when it all works, it is very rewarding!

Thanks for the warning and the pictures! If I finally decide to try, I now know what I'm getting into.

I suppose there is a quite high risk of failure in the first try at camera repair, but I think the experience should at least make me able to perform other similar repairs later with more chance of success.

 

[ForestCap]

Thanks for the warning and the pictures! If I finally decide to try, I now know what I'm getting into.

I suppose there is a quite high risk of failure in the first try at camera repair, but I think the experience should at least make me able to perform other similar repairs later with more chance of success.

I've dissembled a FED-2 100% only due to curiosity, not for actually bring my camera back to life.
I'm not sure you need to disassemble them to that much a extent to make your camera back to working condition, unless it's really a "wasted" sample, i.e. having old soviet film pieces stuck here and there in between all the cogs and/or under top plate. I'm lucky enough to not to purchase a sample like that 🙂. You'd gradually see some key cogs during disassembling, and you'd see what's wrong with fiddling around.

Now I get my iPad back. The cog labelled with red arrow should spin more than 180 degree when release the shutter. It's a part relatively important and prone to problems. You might want to clean and lub it first before further work.

 

[Keith]

Sometimes I get tempted to tear my Fed2 apart and give it a paint job ... the pic above has discouraged me somewhat! 😀

 

[ForestCap]

Sometimes I get tempted to tear my Fed2 apart and give it a paint job ... the pic above has discouraged me somewhat! 😀

I stole a black painted top and bot plate from a busted FED-2 and installed them on my working sample. Felt like cheating to escape the sandpapering or electrolysis works 😀

 

[Auto Winder]

Update: I was lucky that the seller offered full refund including return shipping for it after seeing a video of the problem, as it was sold as CLA'd and fully working, so it is now already on its way back to Russia.

But I have grown fond of the looks and relative simplicity of that camera, and I have a nice collapsible Industar-50 that looked great with it, so I will soon look for a new Fed 2.

Russian rangefinders are strangely addictive... two months ago I had none, now I suddenly have a Zorki 4K, a Kiev 4AM and a Fed 5C.

 

[SolaresLarrave]

Boy, you're a glutton for punishment. All I needed was a Zorki for a month and a half and I was done with FSU cameras! 🙂

Must admit that I purchased mine while my M3 was at the camera spa, and I was getting a bit antsy. But then, when the Leica returned, I sold the Russian camera, lens and all. 🙂 No regrets or problems!

 

[Keith]

I could never sell my Fed 2 .......

 

[ForestCap]

Good to know you get full refund.
I started with FSU lenses (to use on M4/3 cameras).
And now I have two FED-2, two Zorki-6, a Zorki-4 and hopefully I won't buy that Kiev 4AM I was checking yesterday.

 

[Ron (Netherlands)]

You'd gradually see some key cogs during disassembling, and you'd see what's wrong with fiddling around.

The cog labelled with red arrow should spin more than 180 degree when release the shutter. It's a part relatively important and prone to problems. You might want to clean and lub it first before further work.

ThAt is the socalled restrictor gear: it can not fully turn round but is restricted by a little pin (actually a small screw). If the gear is replaced wrongly - only for one or a few tooth - you camera won't operate. It is responsible for the travel distance of the first shutter curtain.

....from a busted FED-2 and installed them on my working sample. Felt like cheating to escape the sandpapering or electrolysis works 😀

Btw I'm always interested in parts camera's and left overs......