lynnb
Veteran
My first roll of P30 exposed at ISO100 and dev in XTOL 1+1 12m 20C with 6 rapid inversions every 30sec. V700 scan. IIIc with a CV21/4 LTM.
The negs have high acutance and are very contrasty (easily tamed in LR4).
The negs have high acutance and are very contrasty (easily tamed in LR4).
Godfrey
somewhat colored
Hmm, Lynnb:
If the negs are "very contrasty", I'd cut back on the agitation. IME, too much agitation causes much higher contrast build up.
For scanning, I go the other way and minimize agitation. It's always easy to add contrast*and obscure data when needed, but reducing contrast ultimately runs into the scanner's limitations and lack of detail information.
I haven't shot any of my P30 yet ... perhaps I'll take out a Leicaflex SL this week.
G
If the negs are "very contrasty", I'd cut back on the agitation. IME, too much agitation causes much higher contrast build up.
For scanning, I go the other way and minimize agitation. It's always easy to add contrast*and obscure data when needed, but reducing contrast ultimately runs into the scanner's limitations and lack of detail information.
I haven't shot any of my P30 yet ... perhaps I'll take out a Leicaflex SL this week.
G
dave lackey
Veteran
My first roll of P30 exposed at ISO100 and dev in XTOL 1+1 12m 20C with 6 rapid inversions every 30sec. V700 scan. IIIc with a CV21/4 LTM.
The negs have high acutance and are very contrasty (easily tamed in LR4).
On the iPhone, these look good!
I think it had potential if they ever start making enough/ selling enough to make the effort if disking in a new film worthwhile I would be happy to try it out!!
Especially if Godfrey would loan me the Leicaflex SL!!!!
Mackinaw
Think Different
Hmm, Lynnb:
If the negs are "very contrasty", I'd cut back on the agitation. IME, too much agitation causes much higher contrast build up.
For scanning, I go the other way and minimize agitation. It's always easy to add contrast*and obscure data when needed, but reducing contrast ultimately runs into the scanner's limitations and lack of detail information.
I haven't shot any of my P30 yet ... perhaps I'll take out a Leicaflex SL this week.
G
P30 is inherently contrasty. There are monstrous threads over on APUG (now Photrio) how to deal with the contrast. Post-processing definitely helps, but controlling contrast during development is the real solution. Choice of developer has a big impact on contrast. Version 2.0 of their “best practices” PDF is very helpful.
Jim B.
css9450
Veteran
I found it interesting that the recommended Best Practice for Rodinal was an hour semi-stand at 1:100 dilution. Seems unconventional although in hindsight that might cut down on contrast.
Scroll further down on the page and there are Community Submitted techniques, which has a more-conventional Rodinal time of 14 minutes at 1:50 with regular agitation (which is what I used).
Scroll further down on the page and there are Community Submitted techniques, which has a more-conventional Rodinal time of 14 minutes at 1:50 with regular agitation (which is what I used).
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
I have to check, but I used Diafine and got good results. I'll check my times, but as I remember I think I only got 50 ISO or perhaps 80 the most. I never bought any P30, but I had all this gifting of P30 where I did enough testing to say that it has potential for me.
Diafine is a compensating developer so like stand development in Rodinal 1:100 the compensating effect unwinds the excessive contrast.
I use time to develop the midrange. With Diafine I always get mucho shadow detail. BTW I make negatives for wet printing. I don't scan.
Cal
Diafine is a compensating developer so like stand development in Rodinal 1:100 the compensating effect unwinds the excessive contrast.
I use time to develop the midrange. With Diafine I always get mucho shadow detail. BTW I make negatives for wet printing. I don't scan.
Cal
Mackinaw
Think Different
The last roll of P30 I shot was at an EI of 40 and developed in straight D-76, continuous agitation, for 8 minutes. My subject was in the shade. I was very happy with the results. See post #159 for the pic.
Jim B.
Jim B.
css9450
Veteran
It took me awhile to use this whole roll. This is frame 1 or 2.... Back in January. That is snow through those windows.
sepiareverb
genius and moron
Notice any latent image keeping troubles?
css9450
Veteran
Not that I noticed, but I'll take a good hard look at them when I get home tonight. I'd rather not see any image deterioration if it takes me several months to go through a roll!
lynnb
Veteran
From the same roll as images posted earlier, P30 @iso100 in XTOL 1+1, V700 scan and LR4 tone adjustment.
Ferrania P30 at Manly Village markets, Sydney 2017. #814 by lynn's snaps, on Flickr
Ferrania P30 at Manly Village markets, Sydney 2017. #814 by lynn's snaps, on Flickr
dave lackey
Veteran
Looks great to me, Lynn!
It appears you have dialed it in. Now that having been apparently solved (?), the website updates do not seem exactly cheerful of confidence-inspiring. Hopefully Ferrania gets their problems solved soon.
I would love to try this film myself even though it looks pretty much like any other good film result. I would definitely support them!
It appears you have dialed it in. Now that having been apparently solved (?), the website updates do not seem exactly cheerful of confidence-inspiring. Hopefully Ferrania gets their problems solved soon.
I would love to try this film myself even though it looks pretty much like any other good film result. I would definitely support them!
dave lackey
Veteran
Lynn, a follow-up question since I value your expertise. Is there anything you have found using P30 that causes concern?
Ted Striker
Well-known
Anyone develop this film in HC-110? Which dilution and for how long?
lynnb
Veteran
from the same roll - P30 in XTOL 1+1
Manly beach, Sydney summer #832 by lynnb's snaps, on Flickr
IIIc CV21/4 LTM
Manly beach, Sydney summer #832 by lynnb's snaps, on Flickr
IIIc CV21/4 LTM
lynnb
Veteran
Dave, no concern, it's just different - it's got a response unlike anything I've used previously. Blue skies are darker as are shadow areas. Also it gives a glow to the highlights as if there's no antihalation layer. But these are things you work with when you use the film. If I try it again I'll use Ferrania's recommended development. I think the film will work very well for portraits.
Cheers,
dave lackey
Veteran
Yes, I can't wait to see your results.
Ad we have discussed many times, it must be nice to have a beach to walk to! If you live beside big water... you are lucky enough!
Mackinaw
Think Different
You had better luck with Xtol than I did.
I do agree that P30 is a superb portrait film. The few portraits that I've taken have a certain quality that separates them from other b&W film I've used.
Jim B.
michaelphoto
Established
I dont think that Xtol and P30 is as bad as some people claim.
Following 2 pictures are from the same roll, EI 80 dev. for 5 min. 35 seconds continuous agitation (Rondinax), Xtol replenished, 20.5 celcius.
Odense fantasier by Michael G, on Flickr
I skyggen langs åen by Michael G, on Flickr
If you click on the pics, you wil get to Flickr. There are more photos to see there.
Regards Michael
Following 2 pictures are from the same roll, EI 80 dev. for 5 min. 35 seconds continuous agitation (Rondinax), Xtol replenished, 20.5 celcius.
Odense fantasier by Michael G, on FlickrI skyggen langs åen by Michael G, on FlickrIf you click on the pics, you wil get to Flickr. There are more photos to see there.
Regards Michael
Daryl J.
Well-known
How long has it been since its last online availability?