Film and Filter Assortment for Travel

[whereshaldo]

I'm heading off to Vietnam at the end of this week with my newly acquired Electro 35 GSN, a bunch of the Walgreens (Agfa) 200ASA, and probably some C-41 B&W. I'll also have my Minolta Dimage Xi as a backup (not the greatest for closeups, but it does ok P&S and makes short movies. I should mention that I'm trying to travel pretty light and don't want to carry a camera bag or many accessories.

Here's my questions:

1. Should I bring additional film, eg some 100ASA or 400ASA for additional flexibility or will the 200 work 95% of the time? This will be my first real foray back into the film arena after a few trips with a digital, so I'm feeling rusty on what I really need.

2. How helpful will a flash really be? I have a Vivitar 2400 (or something like that) and another small flash, but with a 1/30th flash sync and the desire to be inconspicuous, I don't know how much a flash will come into play.

3. Should I consider bringing any filters? I'd considered an ND filter or polarizer to allow me some latitude in bright light situations.

My biggest issue is that I'm hesitant to complicate the situation with filters/flash/films when I'm still trying to wrap my mind around the photographic exposure & composure basics.

Advice?

Hal

 

[bmattock]

I'm heading off to Vietnam at the end of this week with my newly acquired Electro 35 GSN, a bunch of the Walgreens (Agfa) 200ASA, and probably some C-41 B&W. I'll also have my Minolta Dimage Xi as a backup (not the greatest for closeups, but it does ok P&S and makes short movies. I should mention that I'm trying to travel pretty light and don't want to carry a camera bag or many accessories.

Here's my questions:

1. Should I bring additional film, eg some 100ASA or 400ASA for additional flexibility or will the 200 work 95% of the time? This will be my first real foray back into the film arena after a few trips with a digital, so I'm feeling rusty on what I really need.

2. How helpful will a flash really be? I have a Vivitar 2400 (or something like that) and another small flash, but with a 1/30th flash sync and the desire to be inconspicuous, I don't know how much a flash will come into play.

3. Should I consider bringing any filters? I'd considered an ND filter or polarizer to allow me some latitude in bright light situations.

My biggest issue is that I'm hesitant to complicate the situation with filters/flash/films when I'm still trying to wrap my mind around the photographic exposure & composure basics.

Advice?

Hal

Hal,

1) Yes, I would bring some 400 film. Fuji Superia XTRA is a good consumer grade.

2) Flash is very helpful, indoors as well as out. A Yashica GSN has a leaf shutter - it syncs with flash at any speed, unlike focal plane shutters. You may be thinking of the special flash made for the Yashica in the days before flash TTL.

3) Filters can be nice - but the GSN has the light sensor on top of the camera, and depends on that to set the shutter speed, which you can't override. For this reason, if you use filters, you must know their corresponding filter-factor and adjust your ASA (ISO) to compensate for that. Can be a bother on cameras of this type.

I agree that if you're early in the game, just getting good exposures is a good idea. The Electro has a good lens and is relatively good at avoiding lens flare, so you can get by without using filters for the most part.

One thing - presuming you are well aquainted with the necessity of having a correct meter in your Electro - otherwise all shots are at the default shutter speed of 1/500. Bring an extra battery, because your camera is dependant on it.

Make sure your Electro is in fact changing shutter speeds as it should. You can't tell what shutter speed your camera is using, but by varying the light hitting the sensor, you can hear if the shutter speed slows down or speeds up. If all conditions sound the same, you have a defective meter and thus a defective Electro. I had this happen to me - all your outdoor shots will be fine in the daytime, but all interior or low-light shots will be no good.

If you haven't got time to learn about fill flash use outdoors, then don't bother with it for now - but it is a very nice skill to learn. Simple flash used in daylight can really make informal outdoor portraits pop - a professional touch easily learned.

Have fun and be careful. Don't put your camera down on tables in outdoor settings - it will be gone.

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks

 

[oftheherd]

Well, I haven't been there (Vietnam) for over thirty years, so my recollection may be a little off. But isn't this the rainy season? I do remember that the rain in Spain falls mainly in the plains of Quang Tri in the rainy season. If it is the rainy season where you will be, perhaps a cc corection filter would be in order to correct for cloudy conditions. I don't remember, but I think about a W2 or so.

If it is the rainy season, a few rolls of 800 ISO film might be useful. In fact, they probably will anyway for any night shots that go beyond 400 ISO. That is assuming you wish to do that type of photography. Will you be anywhere there is a lack of electricity? Another reason for 800 ISO for evening or night shots.

Again, some plastic sandwich bags with ties, or large ziplock baggies. Now, I don't know that it is rainy season, or that it will be where you are. I seem to recall that different areas have differing amounts of rain in season. The baggies may be helpful just to combat humidity (take some desicant if space permits) to use in them, even if it is not the rainy season.

I don't mean to rain on your parade (pun intended), just to permit some other thought lines for you. Do be careful of your gear as you would anywhere. Some areas will be worse than others, but be careful nonetheless.

I have been able to enjoy local food wherever I have been in the Far East, but maybe my stomach is stronger than most. But they don't try to refridgerate food for weeks before consumption. The water may be different. Perphaps bottled or drink tea which will have been made from boiled water. Again, I was ok, but then I drank a lot of tea too.

Do enjoy, and be sure to show us some photos from your trip. It should be very picturesque there. It was even when I was there and can only have improved.

 

[wlewisiii]

There's lots of Kodak film in the cities, so don't worry too much about that. If you need more it's easy to find and cheap. Unlike some other things in the shops, it really is Kodak... 😀

It's rainy season so have something to keep the cams dry. Ziplocks are ok, but take the cameras out when ever in your hotel rooms to avoid problems with condesation.

Don't worry about filters or flash. Just use 400 film or, if you expect to be out at night, 800 or faster is always a good idea.

Have fun, it's a beautiful land. I enjoyed going there 3 1/2 years ago to adopt our son.

William

 

[RML]

I would bring some iso800 film, too, if only for night shots. I find night shots a must wherever I go. Any country and holiday destination looks almost alien to most at night, especially if you don't need to use flash and can catch the atmosphere handheld at 1/15 or 1/8, f2 and iso800 or iso1600.

I found that I never use any flash or filters, even when I bring them. Your way of shooting might be different, of course, but if you're traveling light anyway, I wouldn't bother bringing them. One reason why I went the rangefinder way is because I used to schlep around too much gear for the SLR (lenses, flash, filters, the whole shebang), never used most of it and was getting tired lugging it all around the mountains in Thailand. the dusty hot streets of India or the wide steppes of Mongolia for days on end. IMO the smaller the package the better.

 

[bmattock]

I held off on advising ISO 800 film for a reason - ISO 800 is only one stop faster than ISO 400, yet it is much more grainy, sensitive to airport security x-rays, and tends to be more expensive. Generally, if you can hand-hold a shot at ISO 800, you can do so at ISO 400; say from 1/30 to 1/15 - very do-able with a rangefinder and a careful grip/stance. If you have a tripod and remote shutter release, even that's not a problem, the GSN is known to have an accurate extended-time automatic shutter speed selector.

ISO 800 is for wedding photographers when every photon counts and flash is often verboten or has to be kept to a minimum. Certainly there is good pro ISO 800 film available, but not the consumer-grade stuff.

If you absolutely have to have ISO 800 when you get where you're going, you can use ISO 400 and push it one stop when having it processed (make sure to mark the cannister and then ask for that service). Increased grain, but not that much worse than ISO 800 to begin with.

If you could go with even faster film, I'd advise something like Delta 3200 or Kodak Tmax 3200 (B&W), but then the GSN won't handle that, max ISO setting is 1000.

Just my 2 cents!

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks

 

[skinnylatte]

To the above comment inquiring if Vietnam is currently having its rainy season, that season was over some time in Oct/Nov, I believe, and starts again in April. Though with the floods and rains there of late, one can never tell.

Do bring as much film as you can get your hands on. Even if you don't use them right now you can use them later when you get home. Film in Indochina is shockingly expensive.. and the range of film they have available is something else altogether.

The cheap beer and cigarettes makes up for it though! Try Beer Lao. Have a good trip.

 

[oftheherd]

To the above comment inquiring if Vietnam is currently having its rainy season, that season was over some time in Oct/Nov, I believe, and starts again in April. Though with the floods and rains there of late, one can never tell.

Do bring as much film as you can get your hands on. Even if you don't use them right now you can use them later when you get home. Film in Indochina is shockingly expensive.. and the range of film they have available is something else altogether.

The cheap beer and cigarettes makes up for it though! Try Beer Lao. Have a good trip.

As I said, it has been a long time since I was there. But my recollection is that it depends on where you are. In Central Highlands, and even in Saigon, I seem to recall that in the rainy season, there was still some clear days with sunlight. In Quang Tri the sun didn't shine for five or six months. The same in Da Nang as I recall, just less rain and drizzle.

For those who have been there more recently or with better memories, have I remember incorrectly? It certainly is possible. I was last there in 1972, and there has been a lot of water under the bridge since them. 😉

 

[Socke]

I think I'm with most here when I recomend ISO400 film. ISO200 is not so much than 400 that you see it in a normal print.

The only problem with ISO400 is it may be too bright to shoot wide open with shutterspeeds limited to 1/500th.

My travel setup is on the other end of the scale, three bodies, seven lenses and ISO100 slide, ISO400 C-41, ISO800 C-41 and some B/W for good measure. Usualy I carry one roll a day colour and 10 rolls B/W.
I use Fujipress800 for churches/temples and theatre, ISO100 slide for daytime sightseeing and beaches and ISO400 for the rest.
I've never had any X-Ray problems.

 

[Kin Lau]

Some people find 800 film too grainy, but I've used Fuji Superia XTRA 800, and it's a decent film, and seems to hold up fairly well. I had a roll baking in the car over the summer, and it came out fine. I buy mine in the grocery store here in 6 or 8 packs, and only pay $1- more per box than iso 400.

I'd be tempted to go iso 200 & 800 instead. You can almost always over-expose with C-41 by 1 or 2 stops and get away with it.

 

[bmattock]

Some people find 800 film too grainy, but I've used Fuji Superia XTRA 800, and it's a decent film, and seems to hold up fairly well. I had a roll baking in the car over the summer, and it came out fine. I buy mine in the grocery store here in 6 or 8 packs, and only pay $1- more per box than iso 400.

I'd be tempted to go iso 200 & 800 instead. You can almost always over-expose with C-41 by 1 or 2 stops and get away with it.

From the TSA's website:

http://www.tsa.gov/public/interapp/editorial/editorial_1035.xml

The X-ray machine that screens your carry-on baggage at the passenger security checkpoint will not affect undeveloped film under ASA/ISO 800.

At the passenger security checkpoint, you should remove the following types of film from your carry-on baggage and ask for a hand inspection:

Film with an ASA/ISO 800 or higher

Seems like a good enough reason NOT to bring 800 speed film, but whatever.

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks

 

[whereshaldo]

...I'd be tempted to go iso 200 & 800 instead. You can almost always over-expose with C-41 by 1 or 2 stops and get away with it.

Can someone explain the over exposing to me? I understand it sort of -- rather than shooting the roll of 200ASA at 200ASA, I set the camera to 400ASA and its 1 stop faster?

Do I have to do this for the entire roll? Do I need to make a note and tell the people who process the film? How does this affect the colors? the grain?

Is there anything else I should know?

Hal

 

[bmattock]

Can someone explain the over exposing to me? I understand it sort of -- rather than shooting the roll of 200ASA at 200ASA, I set the camera to 400ASA and its 1 stop faster?

Do I have to do this for the entire roll? Do I need to make a note and tell the people who process the film? How does this affect the colors? the grain?

Is there anything else I should know?

Hal

Hal,

It is called 'pushing' the film 1 stop. Just as you note - you shoot the entire roll that way - underexposed by 1 stop (ie, 400 instead of 200 means LESS light hitting the film). You then ask the the shop to do a 1-stop push, which means they will over-develop the film a tad bit. This is not such a big deal with color print film, which typically has a pretty good dynamic range.

Yes, it means more grain. Colors, I could not tell you. I'm sure they are not as nice as they would be otherwise.

And if the shop says "HUH?" when you ask for a 1-stop push, go elsewhere, they don't know how to do it and will mess it up.

It was my thought to avoid having to carry both 800 and 400 and try to decide which to use. But yes, you have to shoot the whole roll that way.

Only a thought, you may not feel comfortable with it.

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks

 

[whereshaldo]

What it sounds like is that I can shoot the 200 at 400 and be safe. I think where I'd run into problems in the past was a number of years ago with my Nikon and Oly SLRs where you could adjust the EV +/- .5,1,1.5, or 2. I didn't understand what this meant and would just randomly set the EV to some value (probably +2) for a few shots and then adjust it back. The resulting images always were a bit funky, to put it mildly.

I'll give it a shot going from 200 - 400 just for fun. I can imagine some times where I'll want the lower light capabilities. It would be nice to test it out first, but since I leave in 2 days, that's not an option.

Can I go the other direction and shoot 200ASA at 100ASA?

Hal

 

[ruben]

Hi,
My minimum gear would follow the following logic:

a) For sunlit stuff - color 200 OK
b) For shadowed stuff and indoors-non-flash - BW at ISO 400 or even better at ISO 800 - WITHIN A SECOND FILM CAMERA, with f/2 or broader maximum aperture. Using color film for shadowed issues means either bluish pics or messing up time and again with a "warmer" filter.
d) No digital at all, as you already carry 2 film cameras. If you already carry a bunch of film, the digital will be no back-up in case of trouble with the film camera, as you will remain carrying the bunch of film for nothing. Besides using a film camera alonside a digital one would be for me the biggest compliction I can imagine.
e) Good flash is a must for unexpected dark situations as a night club, and outdoors fill-in.
f) No ND filter, but even better - 2 linear polarizers (one mounted on the color 200 camera, the other for viewing with your naked eye - a must for blue skyes. This is a slight mess, but a worthwhile one. Besides, a polarizer serves as an effective ND filter as well, reducing two stops.

As for the second film camera issue, and in order to obtain maximum concentration in the issue and minimum in the cameras, I strongly advice to travel with 2 cameras of the same type and model - with a clear sticker or tape telling you what film each one is carrying inside.
Cheers,
Ruben

 

[Kin Lau]

Can someone explain the over exposing to me? I understand it sort of -- rather than shooting the roll of 200ASA at 200ASA, I set the camera to 400ASA and its 1 stop faster?

Do I have to do this for the entire roll? Do I need to make a note and tell the people who process the film? How does this affect the colors? the grain?

Is there anything else I should know?

Hal

I meant the other way around... shoot 200asa film at 100 or even 50. On the GSN, this will let you shoot at a larger aperture than the camera will otherwise let you, especially on a bright day... mostly for the "out of focus" effects. Or if you're stuck with a roll or 400 or 800 film in the camera, and you're outdoors, you can

Over-exposing, won't hurt c-41 film. Some people do it to increase colour saturation. Under-exposure ('pushing' as Bill refers to it), will cause colour to seem washed out or faded. Pushing seems to work better with non c-41 b&w film, and E-6 slidefilm.

 

[Nikon Bob]

I would not under expose any C41 colour film (ie exposing 200 at 400) unless I have absolutely no choice and just need an image. Under exposed C41 colour film gives me a very poor photo with much grain and washed out colours on top of reduced sharpness. OTH I have no hesitation in shooting 400 at 200 and in the process over exposing it one stop and do so routinely. The mini lab processes these over exposed rolls in the normal way, you don't have to tell them anything.

Bob