Film developing reel recommendations

[CharlesDAMorgan]

I've been using Paterson Auto Load reels with Paterson multi reel tanks for the last 2 years. I like the adjustability between film formats, and I thought I liked the auto load function.

I've never enjoyed loading 35mm but have had most success loading when I make absolutely certain there is no trace of the sprocket hole at the front of the film going on to the reel. Now the ball bearing is biting into the film and giving it a crease that then leads to the film inevitably finding its way off the reel, and much irritation and an ecstasy of fumbling in a hot and now sweaty loading bag.

Rather than replace with the same, I'd be interested in what suggestions and recommendations people have. I'd rather not switch tank systems at the same time (although I do get fed up with leaks from the inadequate lid sealing).

 

[sebastel]

now i mostly use Jobo, since i can easily switch between 120 and 135.
not fully happy though, as they are not easy to keep clean (to prevent sticking).

best reels i used were the ones from Hewes (stainless steel). perforation hooks on both sides, loading easy as pie.

cheers,
sebastian

 

[CharlesDAMorgan]

I thought Hewes might be the answer. Someone was selling 4 of them (3x120 and 1x135) for £12 used, which struck me as a no brainer, so they have just been bought. Thanks!

 

[retinax]

Try thoroughly cleaning the reels you have. Although I don't understand why, as everything used for developing is nicely soluble in water, they do get dirty. Some people report success with the dishwasher, I've used an old toothbrush and film glides in much better, although the problem with the ball bearing has only been an occasional one for me and solved by playing a bit with those balls😀 . That's most certainly due to dirt.
Oh I see you found hewes reels cheaply, lucky you!

 

[Solinar]

Try thoroughly cleaning the reels you have.

That was my first thought. If you already have the halves separated after the final rinse - put the reels in a pail of water. Come back later when the film is hanging and give them a quick clean up with an old tooth-brush.

I always make sure to free up the tiny ball bearings on the outer edge of the spirals before loading film. They should freely rock back and forth when you tip the reel.

 

[Guy Pinhas]

Hewes. Hands down.

 

[Harley75]

Hewes are the best option, however, they may not fit in a Paterson multi reel tank :bang: The central core the plastic reels go on is too big for the Hewes but is a key part of the light trap!
Stainless steel reels work best in stainless steel tanks.

 

[CharlesDAMorgan]

I knew there had to be a drawback!

I've give the ball bearings a good clean but whatever I do the film leader catches a bit at the top, thus bending the leading edge.

 

[David Hughes]

Hmmm, FWIW, I bought my Paterson tank when I was still at school ( 60 to 65 years ago) and have used no other make but have upgraded to the "System 4" tank once I stopped using 120. During that time I've had to remove wet film and do the second exposure and then replace it so my 2d worth is that they work.

One of the tricks when film jammed, iirc, was to tap then on the bench.


Regards, David

 

[Timmyjoe]

I think everyone else has covered what I would suggest. Hewes stainless steel reels are what I currently use and I find them very easy to load. Like David, I started out using a Patterson tank back in 1975 (so a little later than David) and the plastic reels were slightly different back then. I still have one, and it has never jammed, although I do toothbrush it after every use. The older, original Patterson reels had three notched points where they joined (fit together), as opposed to the two on the current reels. I think they changed this back in the early 1990's or late 1980's. The ball bearings in the original were highly polished, and the plastic didn't yellow as fast as the newer ones do.

All that being said, I still find the Hewes stainless steel reels the easiest to load, use, and clean.

Best,
-Tim

 

[Erik van Straten]

With Paterson reels - I am using them since 1971 - it is good to start inserting the film with the end of the roll, not with the beginning. The "natural" curl of the film is stronger at the end. Just cut the film loose from its spool with scissors. The modern films no longer can be teared off. Take care not to cut through the sprocket holes. Don't forget to turn off the light.


Good luck!


Erik.

 

[mconnealy]

I cut off the tapered leader and insert the end just into the Paterson reel before putting it in the dark bag. Then I pull the film a couple inches onto the reel to seat it well in the spiral before I start rotating the reel to draw on the rest of the roll.

On cameras with auto-rewind I put the cartridge into the dark bag with the tank and open the cartridge with a bottle opener. I cut off the leader and insert it into the reel. That is done blind, but I have not had any problem with getting it started. Having the roll of film outside the cartridge results in less drag on the film strip when rotating the reel and there is less likelihood of having the film jump out of the tracks.

 

[css9450]

Another fan of the Hewes reels here. The 35mm reels are obvious; the two little prongs catch the sprocket holes and it winds on perfectly. The reels for 120 are even more clever; there is a kind of rail on each side that automatically self-centers your film even if you've clipped it on crooked. Its really easy.

 

[twvancamp]

I've only ever used Kindermann stainless reels--the one with the pointed bit to catch the film. The design of the Hewes looks more intuitive, but the Kindermann is simple once you've done it once and I've never had any issues with it.

 

[CharlesDAMorgan]

I've come to the conclusion that it's one reel that is defective. Using my second was not an issue, so I've marked the offender to avoid it. Thanks to all for the advice, all very helpful. One of the real problems is if there is an issue while in the changing bag. I hate having lengths of film exposed to my hands trying to sort it, with the risk of touching the emulsion with a sweaty set of fingers.

When I move house (big if at present) a darkroom is priority number one.

 

[retinax]

I knew there had to be a drawback!

I've give the ball bearings a good clean but whatever I do the film leader catches a bit at the top, thus bending the leading edge.

Not sure what you mean here, you should cut the leader off and possibly round the corners, or even start from the end as Erik suggests, although that's not practical in a changing bag. Leaders from cameras that wind with the emulsion outside are especially offensive, they curl strongly against the direction of the reel.

 

[CharlesDAMorgan]

I'm being imprecise, but I merely mean the front end of the roll of film, trimmed of the leader and cut so there is no trace of sprocket hole to catch the ball bearing as it is fed into the reel.

 

[tbhv55]

much irritation and an ecstasy of fumbling in a hot and now sweaty loading bag.

^^^ Having had more than enough of this, I've gone a bit radical (read: "expensive"😉), and obtained a Lab-Box. 😱 I haven't had a chance to try it yet, but I'll report back when I have. Others here on RFF have used it, and the reports seem to be (largely) positive.


Should you ultimately decide that you are willing to switch tank systems, then it might be worth considering. 🙂

 

[retinax]

I see. Perhaps the hole in the plastic, where the steel ball sits, is damaged.

Some more random advice regarding reels and tanks, although probably not your issue:
Only moving one half of the reel and holding the other still seems to work better than moving both.
The cutting off the leader can be done in the light as long as it's outside the cassette, I sometimes forget that..
The Paterson twisty stick is immensely effective at getting bubbles out, even if you use inversion to agitate thereafter.

 

[Erik van Straten]

The Paterson twisty stick is immensely effective at getting bubbles out, even if you use inversion to agitate thereafter.

I always do that, automatically. It is better than tapping the tank on the the work bench. Tapping means cracking the tank in the end.


Erik.