sparrow6224
Well-known
As I have seen here a long and most informative thread by Tri-X / D-76 aficionados, and recollect Tom A. buying a 18-wheeler load of Arista Premium after settling to his satisfaction that it is indeed Tri-X, I now ask: why is my Arista Premium 400 going pink on me? (I know, I mean magenta.) I recently started using a hydroquinone developer from Photographer's Formulary, just to check it out, called FA-1027, and the film is draining very pink after fixing. The tone of the negatives is pinkish lavender. I remember when I was using Xtol that it was TMY-2 that looked pinkish-blue. In all my other developers, divided D-76, Rodinal, and Xtol, my Tri-X is always gray/black. Is the Arista dependably Tri-X or possibly something else? Is it the developer? What do you think? Many thanks for opinions and expertise from my brothers and sisters in silver-halide.
Turtle
Veteran
I have found that there can be variations between batches. I have in the past put film from different batches into the same tank and some rolls have come out pink and some have not. I have noted the same with Ilford too.
The only thing I can suggest is using the freshest possible fixer followed by a washing routine that allows time for diffusion of the dyes out of the film into the water. With stubborn films, they are washed long before all the dye is out...
The only thing I can suggest is using the freshest possible fixer followed by a washing routine that allows time for diffusion of the dyes out of the film into the water. With stubborn films, they are washed long before all the dye is out...
charjohncarter
Veteran
Someone on APUG developed both films same developers and charted the H-D curves. They were exactly the same. But if you are worried get a roll of TriX and develop it in your new developer to see. Going by pour back color I've never seen pink with either. Maybe, I just never noticed.
gb hill
Veteran
I just developed a roll of Arista Premium 400 in D-76 1+1 Suturday. I use Ilford rapid fixer to clear my negs. I haven't seen a problem with pinkish tint or I haven't noticed. My film was from Jan. 2011 Batch #1201 24 exposure. I have some 36 exp. with an exp. date of 8/13 Batch#1671 but I haven't shot any of that yet.
MichaelW
Established
I believe there is a dye in current Tri-X that can give the pink base. It should go away with exposure to UV light. If you fix & wash for longer it probably won't be there. I now treat Tri-X the same as Tmax.
Mike Riches
Established
I see this color also . I now fix for 8-10 min( with rapid fix) hypo clear for 2 min. Wash for 10 min .
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
The base of the Arista Premium 400 seems slightly different than the TriX - the emulsion is the same. The different base can account for the "tint". I haven't had a great deal of variations between different batches.
I use Kodafix for 8-10 minutes (on a roller base) and rarely get any tint. Occasionally at the end of the life of the fixer (60 rolls) it can occur.
I use Kodafix for 8-10 minutes (on a roller base) and rarely get any tint. Occasionally at the end of the life of the fixer (60 rolls) it can occur.
jan normandale
Film is the other way
Tom do you only run 60 rolls thru a bottle of Kodafix? I've been using 100 as my rule of thumb at 10 minutes. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thx Jan
Eric L
Established
I have had the same experience with Arista Prem 400 and Tri-X. Varies between batches. The wash in both films can come out pink-ish, or not. And I keep to the same routine. D-76 1+1, Ilford Rapid Fix, Kodak HypoClear....
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
Jan, I occasionally run more through-70-80 rolls, but I find that after 60 rolls I have to add at least 1-2 minutes to the fixing time. Usually 60 rolls is a about 5-6 weeks of shooting - and I rather err on the conservative side with processing. Prints can be re-done - film can't (at least not very successfully!)
Probably just an old habit though.
Probably just an old habit though.
Vics
Veteran
I thought that hypo clear wasn't needed with film or with RC paper (per a thread on RFF.) Did I misunderstand?
Chris101
summicronia
Correct. With 'fast' washing materials (i.e., non-fiber based) hypo-clear is counter productive. Chemicals normally wash out of film in about 10 minutes. If you want to be picky about it, wash for twice that time.
So using hypo-clear just extends the necessary wash time with film to wash it out.