Film tint Arista Premium qua Tri-X

[sparrow6224]

As I have seen here a long and most informative thread by Tri-X / D-76 aficionados, and recollect Tom A. buying a 18-wheeler load of Arista Premium after settling to his satisfaction that it is indeed Tri-X, I now ask: why is my Arista Premium 400 going pink on me? (I know, I mean magenta.) I recently started using a hydroquinone developer from Photographer's Formulary, just to check it out, called FA-1027, and the film is draining very pink after fixing. The tone of the negatives is pinkish lavender. I remember when I was using Xtol that it was TMY-2 that looked pinkish-blue. In all my other developers, divided D-76, Rodinal, and Xtol, my Tri-X is always gray/black. Is the Arista dependably Tri-X or possibly something else? Is it the developer? What do you think? Many thanks for opinions and expertise from my brothers and sisters in silver-halide.

 

[Turtle]

I have found that there can be variations between batches. I have in the past put film from different batches into the same tank and some rolls have come out pink and some have not. I have noted the same with Ilford too.

The only thing I can suggest is using the freshest possible fixer followed by a washing routine that allows time for diffusion of the dyes out of the film into the water. With stubborn films, they are washed long before all the dye is out...

 

[charjohncarter]

Someone on APUG developed both films same developers and charted the H-D curves. They were exactly the same. But if you are worried get a roll of TriX and develop it in your new developer to see. Going by pour back color I've never seen pink with either. Maybe, I just never noticed.

 

[gb hill]

I just developed a roll of Arista Premium 400 in D-76 1+1 Suturday. I use Ilford rapid fixer to clear my negs. I haven't seen a problem with pinkish tint or I haven't noticed. My film was from Jan. 2011 Batch #1201 24 exposure. I have some 36 exp. with an exp. date of 8/13 Batch#1671 but I haven't shot any of that yet.

 

[MichaelW]

I believe there is a dye in current Tri-X that can give the pink base. It should go away with exposure to UV light. If you fix & wash for longer it probably won't be there. I now treat Tri-X the same as Tmax.

 

[Mike Riches]

I see this color also . I now fix for 8-10 min( with rapid fix) hypo clear for 2 min. Wash for 10 min .

 

[Tom A]

The base of the Arista Premium 400 seems slightly different than the TriX - the emulsion is the same. The different base can account for the "tint". I haven't had a great deal of variations between different batches.
I use Kodafix for 8-10 minutes (on a roller base) and rarely get any tint. Occasionally at the end of the life of the fixer (60 rolls) it can occur.

 

[jan normandale]

The base of the Arista Premium 400 seems slightly different than the TriX - the emulsion is the same. The different base can account for the "tint". I haven't had a great deal of variations between different batches.
I use Kodafix for 8-10 minutes (on a roller base) and rarely get any tint. Occasionally at the end of the life of the fixer (60 rolls) it can occur.

Tom do you only run 60 rolls thru a bottle of Kodafix? I've been using 100 as my rule of thumb at 10 minutes. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thx Jan

 

[Eric L]

I have found that there can be variations between batches. I have in the past put film from different batches into the same tank and some rolls have come out pink and some have not. I have noted the same with Ilford too.

The only thing I can suggest is using the freshest possible fixer followed by a washing routine that allows time for diffusion of the dyes out of the film into the water. With stubborn films, they are washed long before all the dye is out...

I have had the same experience with Arista Prem 400 and Tri-X. Varies between batches. The wash in both films can come out pink-ish, or not. And I keep to the same routine. D-76 1+1, Ilford Rapid Fix, Kodak HypoClear....

 

[Tom A]

Jan, I occasionally run more through-70-80 rolls, but I find that after 60 rolls I have to add at least 1-2 minutes to the fixing time. Usually 60 rolls is a about 5-6 weeks of shooting - and I rather err on the conservative side with processing. Prints can be re-done - film can't (at least not very successfully!)
Probably just an old habit though.

 

[Vics]

I thought that hypo clear wasn't needed with film or with RC paper (per a thread on RFF.) Did I misunderstand?

 

[Chris101]

I thought that hypo clear wasn't needed with film or with RC paper (per a thread on RFF.) Did I misunderstand?

Correct. With 'fast' washing materials (i.e., non-fiber based) hypo-clear is counter productive. Chemicals normally wash out of film in about 10 minutes. If you want to be picky about it, wash for twice that time.

So using hypo-clear just extends the necessary wash time with film to wash it out.