photophorous
Registered User
Great job on your first roll. Changing bags suck. Just use your closet. I use a bathroom. Do it at night with all the lights in the house off and shades drawn. As long as no one walks in, it'll be dark enough.
Paul
Paul
NickTrop
Veteran
photophorous said:Great job on your first roll. Changing bags suck. Just use your closet. I use a bathroom. Do it at night with all the lights in the house off and shades drawn. As long as no one walks in, it'll be dark enough.
Paul
I second this. And, if you "gotta go" you can kill two birds with one stone while you're in there. Getting film on a spool passes the time better than reading the newspaper.
Great first effort by the by. Love the shoes shot.
mike goldberg
The Peaceful Pacific
Hey...
I just happened onto this Thread, and Congrats are in order!
This week, I developed my own, twice. Don't load up in a changing
bag; that's an awfully small, sweaty environment to work in.
When the films are hung up to dry, and you linger to look them over...
it is a wonderful feeling of accomplishment.
Cheers, mike
I just happened onto this Thread, and Congrats are in order!
This week, I developed my own, twice. Don't load up in a changing
bag; that's an awfully small, sweaty environment to work in.
When the films are hung up to dry, and you linger to look them over...
it is a wonderful feeling of accomplishment.
Cheers, mike
BadMonkey
Humble Photographer
B&W File Dev sequence.
B&W File Dev sequence.
Is Hypo Clear the same as stop bath? If so should that be right after D-76 Dev? I've been doing a little development again since I did it years ago. Perhaps things have changed and I welcome change, better ways and all that. So if someone finds anything wrong with this sequence please speak up.
My Development Workflow:
1. Ilford DD-X ( Mixture 1:2 - 1:4, Temp 68deg. F, Dev Time: 7)
2. Kodak Stop Bath (Mixture 1:4, Temp 68deg. F, Time: 2 Min.)
3. Kodak Fixer (Mixture 1:4 , Temp 68deg. F, Time 2 Min.)
4. Water Flush (Temp 55-70deg. F, Time 5 min.)
NOET: I like the Ilford DX-11 gives me darker shadows and a bit more punch in my humble opinion.
B&W File Dev sequence.
Is Hypo Clear the same as stop bath? If so should that be right after D-76 Dev? I've been doing a little development again since I did it years ago. Perhaps things have changed and I welcome change, better ways and all that. So if someone finds anything wrong with this sequence please speak up.
My Development Workflow:
1. Ilford DD-X ( Mixture 1:2 - 1:4, Temp 68deg. F, Dev Time: 7)
2. Kodak Stop Bath (Mixture 1:4, Temp 68deg. F, Time: 2 Min.)
3. Kodak Fixer (Mixture 1:4 , Temp 68deg. F, Time 2 Min.)
4. Water Flush (Temp 55-70deg. F, Time 5 min.)
NOET: I like the Ilford DX-11 gives me darker shadows and a bit more punch in my humble opinion.
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BadMonkey
Humble Photographer
Done that, been there.
Cheers.
Cheers.
NickTrop said:I second this. And, if you "gotta go" you can kill two birds with one stone while you're in there. Getting film on a spool passes the time better than reading the newspaper.
Great first effort by the by. Love the shoes shot.
350D_user
B+W film devotee
No wetting agent in #4?BadMonkey said:My Development Workflow:
1. Ilford DX-11 ( Mixture 1:2 - 1:4, Temp 68deg. F, Dev Time: 7)
2. Kodak Stop Bath (Mixture 1:4, Temp 68deg. F, Time: 2 Min.)
3. Kodak Fixer (Mixture 1:4 , Temp 68deg. F, Time 2 Min.)
4. Water Flush (Temp 55-70deg. F, Time 5 min.)
DX-11... hmm... I'm after trying some other developer, instead of LC29. Rodinal perhaps... dunno. LC29's ok, but it's not got me the more contrasty look I was after (and have seen in the galleries).BadMonkey said:NOET: I like the Ilford DX-11 gives me darker shadows and a bit more punch in my humble opinion.
Unless I'm overlooking a step, which is always possible of course.
BadMonkey
Humble Photographer
Ops
Ops
Ops I just realized I made a mistake on the Ilford film developer formula it's Ilford DD-X film developer.
As far Rodinal I've purchased some but haven't tried it yet. What's LC29?
Ops
Ops I just realized I made a mistake on the Ilford film developer formula it's Ilford DD-X film developer.
As far Rodinal I've purchased some but haven't tried it yet. What's LC29?
350D_user said:No wetting agent in #4?
DX-11... hmm... I'm after trying some other developer, instead of LC29. Rodinal perhaps... dunno. LC29's ok, but it's not got me the more contrasty look I was after (and have seen in the galleries).
Unless I'm overlooking a step, which is always possible of course.
350D_user
B+W film devotee
Apologies... Ilford LC-29. The main reason I bought a bottle of the stuff is that it has a long shelflife.BadMonkey said:What's LC29?
BadMonkey
Humble Photographer
Ah yes I do use Photoflow to prevent water stains, about a cap full into 12oz of tap water for about 1min.
Thanks for reminding me.
Thanks for reminding me.
350D_user said:No wetting agent in #4?
DX-11... hmm... I'm after trying some other developer, instead of LC29. Rodinal perhaps... dunno. LC29's ok, but it's not got me the more contrasty look I was after (and have seen in the galleries).
Unless I'm overlooking a step, which is always possible of course.
No, "hypo" is a term for fixer, so hypo clear neutralizes the fixer and reduces wash time, which is the next step.BadMonkey said:Is Hypo Clear the same as stop bath? If so should that be right after D-76 Dev?
nikon_sam
Shooter of Film...
Good for you...I really like the shoe shot...great lighting!!!
And "YES" you did this...doing the work yourself adds to the pride in showing others your work...
And "YES" you did this...doing the work yourself adds to the pride in showing others your work...
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