First film development - please give some hints

[VF101]

I just developed my very first film ever. While everything went basically well, I'm not completely satisfied with the results. There seems to be more grain than I expected and the tonal range could be smoother.

Here is what I did: I used APX 100 with R09, 1+25 (10ml + 250ml). I developed 8 minutes at 20 degrees celsius, continuous agitation for the first minute, then tilted once every 30 seconds. Then I used a stop bath for about 2 minutes and at last a fixer for about 7 minutes. Stop bath and fixer were a little bit warmer, about 24 degrees. I forgot to use demineralised water, hence the ugly spots ...

The images where shot on a rainy winter day, just before sunset. I expected smoother greys and not such hard contrasts. Am I right, that my negatives are over-developed?

 

[charjohncarter]

The few times I used APX (Agfa) 100 I really like the smoothness of tones. You are probably using the new stuff so I don't know anything about that. But there was recently a thread about Ultrafine which is an online company selling APX 100 (new). you might look at it and contact the member that was using the new APX.


Here is the old with a little flash added.

The other problems might be: grain-Rodinal, and spots-water spots

 

[VF101]

Thanks for your response. Yes, it's the new APX 100. I used this film before, but got it developed and it had those smoothness as well. So I think this has to do with my agitation.

 

[Haigh]

Use a washaid, demineralised water. Be a happy tank tapper to get rid of bubbles. I invert rather than tilt. If you use a presoak with some sort of liquid (Ilfosol??) be sparing and presoak for a shot time ,less that one minute and keep that as a standard time.
Your images certainly convey cold.

Good luck and i look forward to seeing more of your work.

 

[ooze]

It's difficult to say whether your negatives are overdeveloped without seeing the negatives. But overdevelopment and/or overexposure indeed increases grain. So does a developer like R09 which from what I've read appears to be close to Rodinal. Nevertheless, the latter shouldn't be a major problem with an ISO100 film.

One common guideline: When you put your negatives down on a written page you should just be able to distinguish the letters through the densest part of the negative. If you can't, you've probably overexposed and/or overdeveloped.

I don't think there is anything wrong with your agitation technique.

 

[Drago]

Next time try 1+50 if you want smoother greys. Also the temp for apx/retro 100 i believe should be around 21c. That maybe could cause some problems also

 

[VF101]

Thank you again for your helpful advices.

Use a washaid, demineralised water.

I definitely will.

When you put your negatives down on a written page you should just be able to distinguish the letters through the densest part of the negative. If you can't, you've probably overexposed and/or overdeveloped.

According to this test, the negatives seem to be over-developed, but not that much.

Next time try 1+50 if you want smoother greys.

Yes, I I'll try that.

I think, the difficult light situation (rather dark, yet high contrast with white snow and dark woods) in combination with a little over-development can't give you perfect images. My low-resolution flatbed scanner (Epson V330) isn't that helpful either.

And some pictures from that roll came out quite acceptable:

 

[Fotohuis]

Take notice of + 1 1/2F stop correction when making photos in the snow.

Rodinal/R09 one shot 1+50 is working more semi-compensating. Most films are loosing 1/3F stop when using a para-Amino Phenol type developer (R09).

Best fit in N=0 APX 100/Rollei Retro 100 (old type APX 100 Agfa Photo) E.I. 80 with Rodinal.

And yes, use a wetting agent + destilled water.

1) Rodinal 1+25
2) Rodinal 1+50