First Lens Dilemma.

Sorry Dave, I thought the original poster was looking for helpful advice. I don't see how addressing his question about a sonnar and summilux is merely "going with the flow". I am so grateful to have you opinion, though, it's really helpful and I can see you are thinking about being helpful, first and foremost. Thanks for contributing so much!

Edit: Joe, I didn't see your post when I posted this to dave's post.
 
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MikeL said:
Sorry, I thought the original poster was looking for helpful advice. I don't see how addressing his question about a sonnar and summilux is merely going with the flow. I am so grateful to have you opinion, though, it's really helpful and I can see you are thinking about being helpful, first and foremost. Thanks for contributing so much!
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who are to talking to?
 
Underaglassbell, I'd check out the m-mount group on flickr for photos at different apertures. I'd look into getting either one used, since you won't lose much money if it doesn't work for you.
 
MikeL said:
Sorry, I thought the original poster was looking for helpful advice. I don't see how addressing his question about a sonnar and summilux is merely going with the flow. I am so grateful to have you opinion, though, it's really helpful and I can see you are thinking about being helpful, first and foremost. Thanks for contributing so much!
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- anytime!:)....and my first advice re. lenses was still the most practical - under the circumstances!.... but then again - that's just MY opinion!
Dave.
 
OP: Since you seem to have the money for it in a month, and you want both 35 and 50, get a 35/2 Summicron (v3 and up) and 50/1.4 Summilux pre-asph (v2 and up; used to be the best fast 135 50 ever until 2004, when the asph came out). Will set you back around US 2000 or less. This will settle you for a long time to come.

Roland.
 
MikeL said:
Underaglassbell, I'd check out the m-mount group on flickr for photos at different apertures. I'd look into getting either one used, since you won't lose much money if it doesn't work for you.
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Thanks I think I will.
Sorry I started this thread, but thanks for the help and I'm glad I'm not the only on who thought Dave Wilkinson's posts were unhelpful and indeed presumptuous.
 
ferider said:
OP: Since you seem to have the money for it in a month, and you want both 35 and 50, get a 35/2 Summicron (v3 and up) and 50/1.4 Summilux pre-asph (v2 and up; used to be the best fast 135 50 ever until 2004, when the asph came out). Will set you back around US 2000 or less. This will settle you for a long time to come.

Roland.
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Thanks for the advice :)
- That might be the best option, I was kinda hoping to get the current (non-6bit) 35/2 Asph but I guess it's still workable!
 
If you can afford a new C Sonnar, you can also afford the pre asph Summilux 50/1.4, which is actually a very good lens for people photography, and retains the old school Leica bokeh, which is itself a good reason for owning this lens. Get the latest version which focuses down to 0.7m

This one was shot wide open

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this one at f4.0

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I have shot 1000's of pictures (bl/w) with my 50f1.5 C Sonnar - and so far I have not found a single one where i can blame the lens performance for the quality of the image. I have the 50f1.4 Asph (as well as a lot of other 50's) - the ZM Sonnar 50f1.5 is my favorite. Mine is an early one, probably a f2.8 "optimized" one - but even at f1.5 it works fine. I like enough that I have gotten rid of 3 Summicron 50's as they never got used. I keep the 50f1.4 Asph as a "tester" - but I find it heavy to drag around - compared to the 50f1.5 Sonnar.
If I need a faster lens, I also have the Nokton 50mm f1.1. Considering that you can buy both of these new, with warranty etc for about 2/3 of the cost of a mintish, used 50f1.4 Summilux Asph.....!
 
Underaglassbell said:
Q1: f1.5 is probably the most I will need, but yes I most certainly would rather have the extra speed, then not.

I've seen the Zeiss, and it was really compact, which I understand the v Summilux is not so, but if the Summilux is going to work from the get-go and just let me get on with shooting without the worry in the back of my mind the focus is shifting (if shooting with the Zeiss) then I would rather wait and buy that.

I mean in terms of the f2+ I intend on getting the Leica 35mm, but I did want a fast 50mm prime to go along side it.

DaN
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Since you seem to know which 35 you are after, and you are still up in the air about the 50, have you considered getting the 35 first? A lot of people (including myself) who find 50mm the go-to length on SLRs find 35mm the go-to length on RFs. That way, you can get out and shoot your M7 which is bound to be begging you to go out shooting, and you can take as much time as you feel you need to slog through the huge number of options available as far as 50's go. Also, if this is your first RF, it takes a good bit of practice to be able to focus accurately at f1.4 or 1.5, so the speed at first isn't as essential.

Also, whichever lens you choose, if you get a used copy in fantastic shape, and you decide you don't like it, you can always sell it without losing too much money, or if you order used from a reputable dealer, you will usually get a 30 day return policy, so you could always try it, keep it if you like it, and return it if you don't.
 
When I decided to get a 50 I looked at many different lenses (the photographs of). At the end I chose a c-sonnar optimized at 2.8.
It is my main lens now. After thousands of photographs I really think the focus shift issue is greatly exaggerated. A c-sonnar
optimized at 2.8 would be my first recommendation. The other recommendation is to try to get a used lens. In case you do not like it you can resell it with no loss of money but a gain in experience.
 
If your going to buy a leica you may as well get a Leica lens to go with it. My first lens was a CV but I was not at peace till I put Leica glass on the Leica body. Call it what you want but one can't deny the power of the mind.

If you must have 1.4 but don't want to shell out for the asph go the pre-asph route. Used they're not much more than a new Sonnar. Never owned either lens but to my eyes the pre-asph has a nice rendering. Do some more research.
 
When selecting a lens, it's helpful to know how it will be used. What types of photography do you intend to use it for. Wide-Open and Close-Up portraits, or bitingly sharp street photographs?

If you do a lot of close-up and wide-open work, the Sonnar optimized for F1.5 should fit the bill. If you want something that is well-corrected, well-behaved, and bitingly sharp, the Aspheric Summilux is the lens to get.

So, the most important advice to consider: what qualities in a lens do you want.

(Think I'll put a Canon lens on the Leica. Even things out for the Summarit on the Canon 7)
 
Some better than others, but most M-mount lenses are generally pretty good. Choosing a good lens is not hard. The challenging piece is being creative and having some sort of photographic vision. Enjoy the M7.
 
If you cant afford the Asph lux just yet maybe buy the voigtlander nokton 50mm f1.5. Great lens and really inexpensive compared to alot of rf lenses ($300) then when you have saved up the difference sell the nokton and buy the lux. If you buy it for the right price you wont lose money
 
I purchased the Zeiss 1.5 - Because of the time of year, I budgeted for the Zeiss, and I think focus issues aside it will be fine for me.

It leaves me with a healthy balance over christmas, ready for my Leica 35mm f/2 Summicron-M Aspherical in Jan as originally planned. Who knows I may get the Asph lux in the summer, but for now the Zeiss will be fine I'm sure.
 
You have chosen wisely. Not that there is anything wrong with highly-corrected, bitingly sharp, well behaved lenses...
 
I also peeked at your FLICKR set. I suspect you will be happy with the Sonnar.

Although if you are looking to do Infrared with the Leica, check out the 1950s Type I Rigid Summicron 5cm F2 and Collapsible 5cm f2 Summicron. The latter can be picked up at ~$300. The Infrared Shift of the older Summicrons is unusually small, just about covered by DOF at F2. The IR shift of Sonnar formula lenses tends to be much higher.
 
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