First roll with my M3!

[kchoquette]

I bought my M3 off of this sit mid-November and since I have a 40 hour a week job, had a little time to burn through a roll of film. In that time, I accumulated all of the tools necessary for me to start producing my own negatives. And I finally finished that roll of film just last night.

My darkroom technique was pretty horrible and all over the place. I couldn't get the hang of the Paterson reels so some of the film was touching and henceforth, only a handful of shots made it. I've since 'ruined' a roll of film just to practice on so hopefully roll 2 will turn out a lot better.

I used a concentration of Rodinal at 1+50 and agitated whenever I thought it was a good idea. Plain old PCB-filled Berkshire County tap water was used for my stop bath and seemed to work fine. Finished up with Ilford for fixer and let them dry in my bathroom for a while.

Scanned negatives were incredibly dusty, but hey I'm one of many with a 'liberated' copy of an obsolete version of Photoshop.

I know these shots aren't really the best or most traditional, but I've always been drawn to the abstract and minimal--so for me, I'm happy with them!


First roll w/ M3 by Ki Choquette, on Flickr


First roll w/ M3 by Ki Choquette, on Flickr


First roll w/ M3 by Ki Choquette, on Flickr

 

[Patman]

I think you need to spend some time reading about film processing. You didn't mention anything about temp., the most important part of processing. The temp controls the amount of time in the developer plus aggitation has to be regular at given intervals. When your loading the reels remember no tension film should roll through your fingers loosely as your turning reel. You might want to try sacrificing a roll of film and practicing with it. The stainless reels were great to work with and rarely did you get film touching. Good luck and remember Time & Temperature!!!

 

[kchoquette]

I read most of the literature on the actual bottles of chemicals as far as partitions and temperatures go. It was actually really difficult for me to get the developer solution to sit precisely at that temperature, so in the future, I have to find a more effective way of heating the water. Right now, I'm pretty much out of ideas for how I'd do that.

As for loading the reels, I've already taken out a roll to practice with, but I still seem to be having issues with the Paterson reel. I think I just have to get used to it!

 

[Snowbuzz]

The pics look fine to me: congrats! You'll get the hang of the spools soon enough. My darkroom technique is pretty sloppy, but things turn out okay. Agitation (or lack thereof) is the key. 🙂

 

[kchoquette]

I developed a second roll I had laying around from 2006 and there was a notable difference in both contrast and grain. Had trouble loading the spools again and managed to get some light to ruin a few photos.

Definitely need to practice loading the reels without looking.

Does any one know of a more precise way of heating the water for my developing solution? Also, some tips for agitation would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Patman]

I developed a second roll I had laying around from 2006 and there was a notable difference in both contrast and grain. Had trouble loading the spools again and managed to get some light to ruin a few photos.

Definitely need to practice loading the reels without looking.

Does any one know of a more precise way of heating the water for my developing solution? Also, some tips for agitation would be greatly appreciated!

Often times if you leave your chemicals premixed they will stay at a room temperature close to developing temps, if not exact you can cool or heat them by putting them in a container and putting them in hot or cold water to bring to temp. I liked 68 deg. and usually used D76 1:1 or 1:3 depending on film. I used to like Microdol with TriX nice grain.

 

[paradoxbox]

i fill my bathroom sink with water a little bit hotter than the developing temperature and just put my development tank into the sink when i'm not agitating it.

in winter the water temperature drops pretty quickly so i also leave a trickle of hot water coming from the faucet to keep the temperature up, or you could have some boiled water ready in a kettle to bump the temperature up every little while.

temperature is important but if you're pretty close it won't make a huge impact on your development times. if you're off by 5 degrees though your development times could change significantly (i.e. by 5-10minutes)

 

[kchoquette]

Honestly, upon looking at these some more, I'm slightly upset about the quality of the grain here. I think it could be using Rodinal with the Tri-X, but I feel like the amount of grain I'm getting here is close to the 1600-3200 territory, from what I've compared to.

I know the way everyone develops is pretty different for the most part, but how can I achieve some tighter grain without losing definition (i.e. the third picture.)

Thanks again!

 

[kknox]

On loading the reels, I never rewind film all the way back into the film cart when rewinding the film. Then start the film on the reels with the first 2 in or so, then turn out the lights or finish in you bag.

Freestyle also has great time & temp adjustment charts online for all types of film & developers.

 

[fuji645]

Congrats on your development & scanning. Improvement will come with time and experience. Re Tri-X and grain--suggest you switch to a different developer. Rodinal is known for bringing out the grain in Tri-X or any hi speed film. You might try HC-110 dil B. gives a finer grain structure with this film. Regarding temp control, try to keep your chemicals in a large tray or bucket as close to 68 degrees as you can. If that temp is not convenient for you, try a bit higher while reducing your time in development. Other developers (D-76, HC 110 X-tol) will give you some more time/temp combinations. Are you using a changing bag or a darkened room to load your film in your tank? A changing bag would eliminate light leaks. Regarding processing tanks, everyone has their favorites--I've been using stainless steel reels and tanks for years and I've gotten used to the drill. Suggest you keep using that "test" roll of film and keep practice loading your reels until you can do it in the dark and by feel. Just hang in there--you'll get it!

 

[Sejanus.Aelianus]

On the film loading problems: I suggest you make sure the reels are dry. I put mine in the airing cupboard as soon as the film is hung and I try to give them a full day in the warmth. I also make sure that the film is well past the roller balls, before I start to wind. These two rules seem to ensure that I seldom get misloads. When I do, I always take the film out and start again.

I've found that stand development gives the results I like best from Rodinal. I give 60 minutes at 20 C, in Rodinal diluted 1:100, agitating with six slow inversions at the start only. Grain on FP4 seems minimal and the tones seem right for my needs.

 

[Vics]

I read most of the literature on the actual bottles of chemicals as far as partitions and temperatures go. It was actually really difficult for me to get the developer solution to sit precisely at that temperature, so in the future, I have to find a more effective way of heating the water. Right now, I'm pretty much out of ideas for how I'd do that.

As for loading the reels, I've already taken out a roll to practice with, but I still seem to be having issues with the Paterson reel. I think I just have to get used to it!

I fought those Patterson reels for decades before I discovered the joy of Nikor (ss) tanks with Hewes reels. I bought mine at garage sales and at camera stores that had lots of used stuff.

 

[David Strachan]

no need to develop at set temperatures

no need to develop at set temperatures

I do three films at a time in a drum, pre loaded in a dark room, using very dry reels (Patterson). Also preclipping the sharp corners of the film helps to stop "catching" when winding in the film. The film should be able to be pushed gently in, winding is hardly necessary. The secret is v clean, very dry reels.

I develop my Ilford FP4+ in a temperatures as low as 13 degrees centigrade...the ambient winter temp of tap water here in Adelaide, Australia. This way I don't get paranoid about keeping temp up, and I can just use stop and fix at the "cool" ambient temps too. Always works smoothly and I get full tonal range.

Just use the conventional temp-dev time charts to estimate your developing time. Don't think I'll try anything lower in temp; the charts usually stop at 13 or 14 degrees C.

I finish with Photoflo of course, and wipe my hanging negs v gently with a v soft squeegee (a piece windscreen wiper plade set in a wood handle) kept perfectly clean.

all the best Dave S 🙂

PS use a Leica M6 and IIIc with Summicron 50mm f2 (1952 or 1953). Developer is Ilfotech LC 29 which I make up to 1+25 so there is enough developer to do the three films at such low concentrations. Also use a roller drum so I don't have to hang arouond doing inversions....a very simple quick process.

 

[Frontman]

Pratice makes perfect, and Patterson reels aren't too hard to load.

I start by cutting off the film leaders as soon as I remove the film from the cannister. Cutting off the leaders makes the film easier to put onto reels, and also allows me to hang the film to dry on the shower without it touching the floor.

Regulating the temperature is not so hard. If you can keep the room you are working in at 20 degrees, the chemicals should stay the same. If the room is coooler, keep your bottles and tank in a sink (or tub) and add hot water from time to time to keep it consistent.

The water here in Tokyo has a lot of minerals, but treating with Dry-well or Photo-flow prevents any dried minerals from appearing on the negatives.

Wear rubber gloves when mixing, agitating, rinsing, etc. The chemicals can dry out your skin, and cause painful cracks if you spend a lot of time developing.

 

[nobbylon]

I leave the leader out on rewinding, cut the end off and insert into bone dry reels. In the bag I pull out about a foot at a time and with the ball bearing guide bits of plastic under my thumbs (stops the film trying to ride out) I rotate the reels but not the full turn, maybe half of the full turn. I'll call it the reel shimy! I've found this really helps the film onto the reels when it feels like it's getting tight.
I mix my hc110 at dilution H 1:63 using a minimum of 6cc dev to 378 of water for 1 film and 9cc dev to 570cc water for 2 films.
I mix the dev so that temperature is as near to 68-70deg and for the 12 mins it's in the tank at 68 the temperature is not going to vary enough to worry about. I do a temp check at 3 mins and adjust 30 secs/deg either way. Agitate for the first minute and 3 inversions every minute. Gives me a very consistant low grain look to TRI-X. If I'm using neopan 400 then dev time is 10 mins at 68 using same temp adjustment and agitation methods.
Once you find a system, refine it and stick to it for consistency.
This is at 69 deg for 11mins 30secs this week.

 

[leicapixie]

Temperature control is easy. i live in Canada. The houses and apartments are very warm..I keep plain water in large closed bottles. There are 2 good things. One the water becomes "ph" friendly and is at room temperature. Fixer and stop bath are all pre-mixed. I actually use 2 fixers. I use a piece of film to see clearing time of the fixer and double it. Half time in fixer one, next half in fixer 2. The stand development routine is long but very good.
Dust! Aii! i now dry in bathroom after running the shower to slightly dampen the air. Switch off any exhaust fans.It will dry in a few hours. I leave it usually 24. You can use time and temp method for developing. It goes quicker. Scanning is really not nice. Keep checking for dust.
Your 1st results are OK. a few good. Loading Paterson reels is not that easy. Practice, practice. I use steel reels which also have a learning curve.
The M3 is great Shot a roll today. It's minus 9c but sunny after the last snowfall. My M was flawless but does need a major CLA.. No battery deaths 'cause of low temperatures..
Look forward to more posts and images.

 

[leicapixie]

i have been developing film since the early sixties!
I cannot wait to see my images straight out of fixer and one water rinse. I gotta see. I love the process. Do not over wash! Ilford has some great ideas on washing. Temperature must be close to developing and fixing temperatures.
Do everything the same! Don't change from 1 developer to another. Each major one OK. Some are the same! Ilford ID-11 and Kodak D-76 same. Ilford chemicals appear to be cleaner..