f8&go
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Just inspected my first roll thru the lovely Leica IIIf RD ST w/50 Elmar
I purchased from haagen_daz (feedback thread.)
Managed to get her loaded and operating w/Fujichrome 100 to
check the shutter accuracy. Could only operate between 1/15 to
1/1000 but the shutter works better than my metering!
At 1/1000 she seems to underexpose a half-stop (didn't expect
that) but I rarely go there so I am DELIGHTED.
Thanks again, Mark.
Image quality seems excellent @4X. Sorry I don't have an
image to post this time, will work on learning that.
A question, please: If I lose my mind & try to use this thing with
electronic flash, the sync setting would be "0", correct?
thanks
I purchased from haagen_daz (feedback thread.)
Managed to get her loaded and operating w/Fujichrome 100 to
check the shutter accuracy. Could only operate between 1/15 to
1/1000 but the shutter works better than my metering!
At 1/1000 she seems to underexpose a half-stop (didn't expect
that) but I rarely go there so I am DELIGHTED.
Thanks again, Mark.
Image quality seems excellent @4X. Sorry I don't have an
image to post this time, will work on learning that.
A question, please: If I lose my mind & try to use this thing with
electronic flash, the sync setting would be "0", correct?
thanks
George Bonanno
Well-known
Your sync setting with electronic flash is "2"... and make sure your shutter speed is set to 1/30 sec or slower.
f8&go
Established
Thank you, Mr Bonanno.
VictorM.
Well-known
According to the "Pocket Leica Book", the '2' setting is for black dial IIIf's. Red dial IIIf's require '0' and 1/25 sec. or '20' and 1/50 sec.
OldNick
Well-known
VictorM. is correct on the settings for the RD. My Leica Manual and my camera agree with him.
Jim N.
Jim N.
f8&go
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Very interesting, again, thanks to ALL.
Because of my limited web search skills, I failed to
find this info without your help.
I am learning to love this object.
Because of my limited web search skills, I failed to
find this info without your help.
I am learning to love this object.
George Bonanno
Well-known
Oh Yeah...
Oh Yeah...
Yeah... But... If... a black dial or red dial is set to "2" flash sync delay, any speed from 1/30 sec or slower should work perfectly with a "modern instantaneous stroboscopic flash unit". I have a BD and my girlfriend has a RD and we did extensive tests on this. The conclusion is... provided your camera is in good working order... as I stated above. Why jerk around with obsolete charts from the '50's where older strobe units of the day had their own internal delays to be dealt with... similar to flash bulbs. There is no reason whatsoever a IIIf set to a flash sync of "2" should have to be readjusted when using a modern electronic flash unit. That mysterious dial around the shutter speed dial is nothing more than an advance, delay mechanism for the flash contact points... synchronized to the shutter.
Depending on the state of adjustment of your camera the flash sync dial might (maybe) have to be adjusted by a number or two. Please make a few appropriate tests to be sure.
I would like to hear from other IIIf stroboscopic speedlight photographers who have taken the time and effort to make similar tests rather than resort to charts from the olden days.
Best,
George
Oh Yeah...
Yeah... But... If... a black dial or red dial is set to "2" flash sync delay, any speed from 1/30 sec or slower should work perfectly with a "modern instantaneous stroboscopic flash unit". I have a BD and my girlfriend has a RD and we did extensive tests on this. The conclusion is... provided your camera is in good working order... as I stated above. Why jerk around with obsolete charts from the '50's where older strobe units of the day had their own internal delays to be dealt with... similar to flash bulbs. There is no reason whatsoever a IIIf set to a flash sync of "2" should have to be readjusted when using a modern electronic flash unit. That mysterious dial around the shutter speed dial is nothing more than an advance, delay mechanism for the flash contact points... synchronized to the shutter.
Depending on the state of adjustment of your camera the flash sync dial might (maybe) have to be adjusted by a number or two. Please make a few appropriate tests to be sure.
I would like to hear from other IIIf stroboscopic speedlight photographers who have taken the time and effort to make similar tests rather than resort to charts from the olden days.
Best,
George
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Clearly, tests are in order when I'm properly equipped.
Oh the bother!
Oh the bother!
haagen_dazs
Well-known
Hey Rob
sorry if the faster shutters arent working fast enough.
hmm dont know why though
usually i thought old cameras will have a problem with the slower shutters speeds
haha
hope the first roll was good
sorry if the faster shutters arent working fast enough.
hmm dont know why though
usually i thought old cameras will have a problem with the slower shutters speeds
haha
hope the first roll was good
VictorM.
Well-known
"I would like to hear from other IIIf stroboscopic speedlight photographers who have taken the time and effort to make similar tests rather than resort to charts from the olden days."
I don't need 'tests'; I've used a IIIf BD since 1969 (the same one) and used to own a IIf RD. The old charts are a good place to start.
"Clearly, tests are in order when I'm properly equipped.
Oh the bother!"
No bother at all. No film need be used. Take off the lens and bottom plate (remove any film first!). Then insert a piece of white paper in the film gate. Hook up the flash, set it to the lowest power, set the shutter speed and delay. Wind on and fire. If it's working cvorrectly, you will see the entire film area. Try higher shutter speeds to see how much will be cut off. It's easy and fun.
I don't need 'tests'; I've used a IIIf BD since 1969 (the same one) and used to own a IIf RD. The old charts are a good place to start.
"Clearly, tests are in order when I'm properly equipped.
Oh the bother!"
No bother at all. No film need be used. Take off the lens and bottom plate (remove any film first!). Then insert a piece of white paper in the film gate. Hook up the flash, set it to the lowest power, set the shutter speed and delay. Wind on and fire. If it's working cvorrectly, you will see the entire film area. Try higher shutter speeds to see how much will be cut off. It's easy and fun.
Attachments
f8&go
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haagen_daz,
It's only that top 1/1000 speed; I wouldn't have
expected it either (sort of why I mentioned it) but not a problem.
VictorM.,
Thank You! I should have thought of that.
I am too used to back-loaders. Of course I was
being facetious about the bother but I've got to
get a conventional PC base adapter for my flash.
Thanks for the excellent illustration.
regards
It's only that top 1/1000 speed; I wouldn't have
expected it either (sort of why I mentioned it) but not a problem.
VictorM.,
Thank You! I should have thought of that.
I am too used to back-loaders. Of course I was
being facetious about the bother but I've got to
get a conventional PC base adapter for my flash.
Thanks for the excellent illustration.
regards
Last edited:
John Shriver
Well-known
The high speeds go off first when a Leica needs a clean, lube, and adjust. Also, the tolerances on 1/1000 were rather loose in the first place. Although your IIIf does have a separate ajustment for the 1/1000 speed. But they are probably all fast by 1/2000 of a second, you just only notice it on 1/1000.
f8&go
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John Shriver,
Very informative, I appreciate the info.
Any harm done if I skip the CLA for a while as
long as the camera seems to be in good
working order otherwise?
Thank You.
Very informative, I appreciate the info.
Any harm done if I skip the CLA for a while as
long as the camera seems to be in good
working order otherwise?
Thank You.
Xmas
Veteran
f8&go
John is all too correct but if you use tha camera a lot it just might move the gum (former grease) sufficiently.
If the exposuue is sufficiently non uniform accross the frame or the ribbon snaps you need a maintenance.
Noel
John is all too correct but if you use tha camera a lot it just might move the gum (former grease) sufficiently.
If the exposuue is sufficiently non uniform accross the frame or the ribbon snaps you need a maintenance.
Noel
f8&go
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Thank you, Xmas.
I'm a slow user, so we'll try 'er out for a while.
I feel better for learning from informed sources though.
I'm a slow user, so we'll try 'er out for a while.
I feel better for learning from informed sources though.