alexz
Well-known
Well, this evening I'm going to make a leap into manual B&W development - for the fist time in my life. All the necessary stuff is at my disposal such as tank with necessary gear, a European bottle of HC-110 (half liter), Tetenal Superfix Plus fixer.
I'd like to get confirmed reagrdign the processes sequence, please correct me whereever I'm wrong (missing steps, improper times/operations or whatever...):
1. Load the film into the tank (have a tent I use for 4x5 loading).
2. Prepare the developer and fixer solutions: HC-110: solution B (1:9 - European), fixer: 1:3, amount of water (for in-between washing), settle the temps of all (in single bath) to 20 degrees C.
3. Fill-in developer solution (240 mililiters tank) into the tank, set on the timer 6.5 minutes for dev. time, agitate continuously (slowly) for the first minute, then 10 sec. of each subsequent minute.
4. After the development - pour the developer out and fill the tank with 240ml of water at 20 degrees C and let it stay calm for 3-5 minutes.
5. Pour the water away and fill in the fixer solution (that was kept at 20 degrees also +/- 1 degree), let the fixer work for about 5 minutes with little agitation then pour it into a separate bottle (prepared ahead) for re-use.
6. Washing: fill-in the tank full of water, agitate several times and repeat the process (each time with fresh filled water) 10-15 times.
7. Take the film out into a bath filled with water with a small amount of liquid soap (to make up a foam) and get the film wet for a minute in it (removes water residue).
8. Hang the film for dry.
Done.
Please review the process and make your notes/corrections.
I'd like to get confirmed reagrdign the processes sequence, please correct me whereever I'm wrong (missing steps, improper times/operations or whatever...):
1. Load the film into the tank (have a tent I use for 4x5 loading).
2. Prepare the developer and fixer solutions: HC-110: solution B (1:9 - European), fixer: 1:3, amount of water (for in-between washing), settle the temps of all (in single bath) to 20 degrees C.
3. Fill-in developer solution (240 mililiters tank) into the tank, set on the timer 6.5 minutes for dev. time, agitate continuously (slowly) for the first minute, then 10 sec. of each subsequent minute.
4. After the development - pour the developer out and fill the tank with 240ml of water at 20 degrees C and let it stay calm for 3-5 minutes.
5. Pour the water away and fill in the fixer solution (that was kept at 20 degrees also +/- 1 degree), let the fixer work for about 5 minutes with little agitation then pour it into a separate bottle (prepared ahead) for re-use.
6. Washing: fill-in the tank full of water, agitate several times and repeat the process (each time with fresh filled water) 10-15 times.
7. Take the film out into a bath filled with water with a small amount of liquid soap (to make up a foam) and get the film wet for a minute in it (removes water residue).
8. Hang the film for dry.
Done.
Please review the process and make your notes/corrections.
pesphoto
Veteran
I ususally agaitate fix for the 1st full minute then every minute a few agitations.
Good luck and post some pics.
Good luck and post some pics.
sepiareverb
genius and moron
You might add a little vinegar to your water after the developer, and I'd agitate in the fixer too- I do the first minute, then 5 inversions 3 times every minute after that.
mtscherning
Member
I usually add a bit of acetic acid to my stop bath in-between developing and fixing. Wash for 7-8 minutes, then wash once in Agepon (instead of normal liquid soap) to avoid the chalk in your water
As pesphoto, I also agitate the fixer, once per 30 seconds after the first minute of agitating
Edit: Almost forgot, a great link for the development times is this one: http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html
As pesphoto, I also agitate the fixer, once per 30 seconds after the first minute of agitating
Edit: Almost forgot, a great link for the development times is this one: http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html
Ronald M
Veteran
The european stuff has a different concentration than US so dilutions are different. Be very careful.
Just do 6 tests on the front of a roll, cut off 12" in the dark and develope just that much. Then print it to see where you are
Air in drying place and water must be filtered or you will be spotting prints `til next year.
Don`t reuse fix or at least filter it. The removed silver sticks to the next film if the fix was it more than 24 hours old. Cotton wool is the best filter. Coffee filter worthless.
Just do 6 tests on the front of a roll, cut off 12" in the dark and develope just that much. Then print it to see where you are
Air in drying place and water must be filtered or you will be spotting prints `til next year.
Don`t reuse fix or at least filter it. The removed silver sticks to the next film if the fix was it more than 24 hours old. Cotton wool is the best filter. Coffee filter worthless.