First try at C-41 with Jobo and Tetenal

Johnmcd

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A couple of firsts,

1. My new/old Bronica SQA with 65mm
2. Portra 400
3. Tetenal C-41
4. My new/old Jobo CP2

All worked well. Love the colour. Very realistic. Jobo kept the chemicals at 38 deg C perfectly.

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Cheers - John
 
This has been working well for me too. Except that I roll my Jobo tank back and forth in my bathtub instead of using a CP2. It is pretty easy to get consistent results with the Tetenal kit.
 
Congratulations with your results, John.

I have been looking into the Jobo machines lately, considering to begin processing C-41 at home. So far, the prices have been too high, considering the quality of the items (missing this, missing that).

Your results inspire me to keep on looking....:)
 
Congratulations with your results, John.

I have been looking into the Jobo machines lately, considering to begin processing C-41 at home. So far, the prices have been too high, considering the quality of the items (missing this, missing that).

Your results inspire me to keep on looking....:)

Thanks. It was very easy with the Jobo. I used to have one over 20 years ago to do some cibachrome. I was lucky this time around when a friend who used to be a pro photographer had one in his shed and gave it to me for free. The advantage is it keeps the temp perfect. Though many just roll it like CNNY with good results.

I was prepared for smelly chemicals after reading posts on tetenal but I did not smell anything at all. My B/W fixer is much worst.

I'm very impressed. Looks very different to digital, not as vivid, more lifelike.
 
A couple with some Fuji Reala 100 that I processed this morning. This time with the Zenzanon S 150mm lens.

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Always nice to know that there is post-apocalyse development for C-41.

I don't shoot neg color, but these look quite blue/cold to me. Is that the film (or scan)?

-Charlie
 
The Jobo processors are indeed wonderful tools for C-41 and E-6 processing. I have two CPP-2 processors. I bought the second one after I wore out the first.

It does appear that there is a bluish cast to the images.
 
Always nice to know that there is post-apocalyse development for C-41.

I don't shoot neg color, but these look quite blue/cold to me. Is that the film (or scan)?

-Charlie

This colour neg stuff is all new to me too. It could very well be a little 'blue'. Whether that's neg or scan, I'm not sure. I auto adjusted the colour in PS and got this.

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and the original

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The warmer one is definitely better. The others I don't get the same significant change. Thanks for the heads ups. Looks like I will need to do a little PP and train my 'colour eye'.

Cheers - John
 
Great job. I'm about to do my second roll of Ektar using the unicolor it (waiting for water bath to cool so I can pour the chemistry and wait for it to get to temp.)
 
Great job. I'm about to do my second roll of Ektar using the unicolor it (waiting for water bath to cool so I can pour the chemistry and wait for it to get to temp.)

Good luck. I've been processing B/W for as long as I can remember but for some reason following this 'recipe' had me sweating bullets :) Just what you're used to I guess.
 
Good luck. I've been processing B/W for as long as I can remember but for some reason following this 'recipe' had me sweating bullets :) Just what you're used to I guess.

The first time I used the Tetenal kit I wasn't fully aware that the Blix gasses a lot. One of the used Jobo tanks I got has a hole in the cap for that reason. I ignored that and used the regular one. After a minute or so the cap blew off like a champagne cork and blasted 'beet juice' all over my bathtub. It kind of looked like a scene from a gangster movie. I was in a panic, but the film came out fine.
Lesson learned: always let the gas out while doing the Blix.
 
The first time I used the Tetenal kit I wasn't fully aware that the Blix gasses a lot. One of the used Jobo tanks I got has a hole in the cap for that reason. I ignored that and used the regular one. After a minute or so the cap blew off like a champagne cork and blasted 'beet juice' all over my bathtub. It kind of looked like a scene from a gangster movie. I was in a panic, but the film came out fine.
Lesson learned: always let the gas out while doing the Blix.

That's a classic! I would imagine it staining anything it hit.

BTW, how long do the mixed chemical last in non-full bottles. I seem to get mixed answers from 4 weeks to a year??
 
Very well done, John. I think the results were well worth your effort.

Thanks Gerry. I must admit it has opened up some new possibilities. I've got 4 rolls of Portra 400 and 4 of Reala 100. I don't think they will last long :)

Just got to start looking in 'colour'...
 
Johnmcd said:
That's a classic! I would imagine it staining anything it hit.

BTW, how long do the mixed chemical last in non-full bottles. I seem to get mixed answers from 4 weeks to a year??

Luckily the tub contained it pretty well. It rinses off easily, but I wouldn't expect it to be forgiving on a white suit.

I haven't really kept the mixed solution for more than a week or two. I save up my films and then batch process them. I can fit 8-10 films (depending if it is 35mm or 120) in one tank. The 1L kit works out efficiently with that tank size. I typically will reuse the solution once, but I do that fairly soon after the first batch. I've used it a third time on a few occasions and didn't notice any difference, but they weren't critical images. I think it goes down hill gradually. You determine the cut off point.
 
Luckily the tub contained it pretty well. It rinses off easily, but I wouldn't expect it to be forgiving on a white suit.

I haven't really kept the mixed solution for more than a week or two. I save up my films and then batch process them. I can fit 8-10 films (depending if it is 35mm or 120) in one tank. The 1L kit works out efficiently with that tank size. I typically will reuse the solution once, but I do that fairly soon after the first batch. I've used it a third time on a few occasions and didn't notice any difference, but they weren't critical images. I think it goes down hill gradually. You determine the cut off point.

The Jobo uses 240 ml's at a time in my small tank that holds just one 120 reel. I was just hoping I could keep pouring that back in the litre solution to mix back into the rest of solution. This will of course, increasing affect the strength. But to what degree I wonder? Looks like I'll have to shoot the eight rolls I have left asap??
 
glad to see you're getting good results with tetenal. out of the blue i've started having issues with the rollei c-41 kit so seeing your results i'm going to give tetenal a whirl.
 
The first time I used the Tetenal kit I wasn't fully aware that the Blix gasses a lot. One of the used Jobo tanks I got has a hole in the cap for that reason. I ignored that and used the regular one. After a minute or so the cap blew off like a champagne cork and blasted 'beet juice' all over my bathtub. It kind of looked like a scene from a gangster movie. I was in a panic, but the film came out fine.
Lesson learned: always let the gas out while doing the Blix.

Please excuse my idiot question , but I am a totally newbie , wanting to get in the C41 th a Jobo CP . If the cap has a hole for letting the gas out , when mounted on the Jobo machine in the water bath doesn't the inside liquid gets out in the water? (or vice-versa) Maybe you have a picture with the cap of the drum to figure out .
 
Please excuse my idiot question , but I am a totally newbie , wanting to get in the C41 th a Jobo CP . If the cap has a hole for letting the gas out , when mounted on the Jobo machine in the water bath doesn't the inside liquid gets out in the water? (or vice-versa) Maybe you have a picture with the cap of the drum to figure out .

The hole is pretty small, and it is right in the center. When you use a rotary tank like the jobo, you only fill the tank (a little less than) half way. I follow the amounts printed on the tank pretty closely. Because the tank is constantly turning while you are processing, all the film has equal contact with the chemistry. To answer your question, the tank is not full enough to leak out of the hole. I have also done some inversion processing with c41, and I just kept the cap off except when I was agitating. The great thing about rotary processing is that it is more efficient with chemistry, so I prefer to do it that way.
 
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