Assaf
Well-known
Hi fellows,
lately I started taking pictures with a very cute CL + 'cron 40.
I used it without a hood, only a multi coated UV filter. I didn't use the hood becaues I don't like hoods, and also because I never saw flare in the other lenses I use.
However, this lens showed some flare, like in the examples below:
My question is : do you think a hood could have helped in these situations?
If so, which one?
The kind RFF member who sold me the lens included both the original rubber hood, and also a vented metal hood, thread mount, with "39mm" engraved on it. Isn't it actually a hood for the 35mm lens?
Which one will be more effective, if at all?
I would like to add, that if I use the rubber hood, I'll put the original UV plain glass filter. If I use the vented hood, I'll connect it to the UV MRC filter, which will take it a bit farther away from the lens.
Thank you guys
Assaf
lately I started taking pictures with a very cute CL + 'cron 40.
I used it without a hood, only a multi coated UV filter. I didn't use the hood becaues I don't like hoods, and also because I never saw flare in the other lenses I use.
However, this lens showed some flare, like in the examples below:
My question is : do you think a hood could have helped in these situations?
If so, which one?
The kind RFF member who sold me the lens included both the original rubber hood, and also a vented metal hood, thread mount, with "39mm" engraved on it. Isn't it actually a hood for the 35mm lens?
Which one will be more effective, if at all?
I would like to add, that if I use the rubber hood, I'll put the original UV plain glass filter. If I use the vented hood, I'll connect it to the UV MRC filter, which will take it a bit farther away from the lens.
Thank you guys
Assaf
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bobkatz
Well-known
Hi...If I am correct, the filter for cron C 40mm,is one from series 5.5 or a 39 (0.75mm pitch), instead can accept the 39mm 0.5mm pitch) filter, but it doesnt fit parallel to front element. So I read somewhere this causes prone to flare..
Regards...
Regards...
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35mmdelux
Veni, vidi, vici
lose the filter. always use the hood.
Al Kaplan
Veteran
You have a choice. Learn to like flare or learn to like hoods. My 40mm 'Cron wouldn't be caught dead out in public unless she was properly dressed with a nice stylish hood.
maddoc
... likes film again.
I had a Summicron-C 40/2.0 and used it in the beginning with hood and wrong (E39) filter with sometimes terrible flare. After switching to a series V filter everything was OK.
Palaeoboy
Joel Matherson
The flair exhibited in those photos isnt too bad considering the the harsh lighting conditions just of axis. I hate using hoods too so basically in difficult situations right into the light I just take the filter off, this should reduce most of your problem keeping in mind this situation is pretty much what hoods are for. The pink flare artefacts you have here I have even seen in modern lenses like the Voigtlander 28 f3.5 when I have a MC filter on it and taken directly into the sun. In these situations your pictures seem no worse than that with these more modern lenses which is testament to this early 70's designed lens, but at the end of the day one must concede that lenses of this vintage arent coated as well as most modern M mount lenses.
Final note, I have tried both series 5.5 and E39mm B+W UV filters and noticed no flare difference between the two (brand and coating type being equal), in fact this is the first I have even heard that claim made. I suspect maybe that has more to do with the series 5.5 filter holder being the actual factory rubber hood rather than any benefit of the filter to front element distance. One problem you have to consider is that Multi-Coated series 5.5 filters are very rare so even if you went down this route it would most likely be a single coated series 5.5 like the Leica or Tiffen ones which are the most common. I cant see any advantage over a quality MC E39 even if the slightly greater filter to front element distance does contribute in any remote way to flare. One user I have seen uses the glass taken out of the ring of a 36mm MC UV filter and slots it into the original hood like a series 5.5 filter so thats one possible work around but I felt the glass wasnt thick enough and rattles a bit in that particular set up.
Final note, I have tried both series 5.5 and E39mm B+W UV filters and noticed no flare difference between the two (brand and coating type being equal), in fact this is the first I have even heard that claim made. I suspect maybe that has more to do with the series 5.5 filter holder being the actual factory rubber hood rather than any benefit of the filter to front element distance. One problem you have to consider is that Multi-Coated series 5.5 filters are very rare so even if you went down this route it would most likely be a single coated series 5.5 like the Leica or Tiffen ones which are the most common. I cant see any advantage over a quality MC E39 even if the slightly greater filter to front element distance does contribute in any remote way to flare. One user I have seen uses the glass taken out of the ring of a 36mm MC UV filter and slots it into the original hood like a series 5.5 filter so thats one possible work around but I felt the glass wasnt thick enough and rattles a bit in that particular set up.
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Assaf
Well-known
Thank you all guys for you answers, and specifically Palaeoboy for your elaboration.
I took some pictures today and had another look on my gear.
If you're patience enough, please try to help me with it:
This is what I thought I had until today:
1) The 40 cron
2) The original rubber hood
3) A matching vented metal hood
3) two 5.5 UV filters - B+W s.5.5 010 1x
4) one UV MRC filter, 39mm
After having a look, this is what I actually have:
1) The same lens
2) the rubber hood is actually the 90/4 lens hood...
3) The metal hood is still here, but I actually don't know which lens it belongs to. Since the 40cron had a special rubber hood, I'm afraid this hood is for a 35mm lens.
It's a screw in 39mm thread
4) The B+W UV is actually not MRC. It shows the same reflections as the rest of the rest of the filters. What's written on it is : B+W 39 010 UV-Haze 1x
5) Well, I found out that I have another UV filter, but it's still not MRC. It's a LEICA E39 UVa 1331.
To sum it up, I have two hoods and many filters. Non of the filters is MRC.
Regarding the hoods, the rubber is certainly out of the question (and I don't intend to cut it or something like that). The metal, might be usefull but not as much as it could be (BTW, can I connect it after a 39mm filter?).
I can try all the combinations and check vignette wide open and flares, but you might help and save me some time
many thanks
Assaf
I took some pictures today and had another look on my gear.
If you're patience enough, please try to help me with it:
This is what I thought I had until today:
1) The 40 cron
2) The original rubber hood
3) A matching vented metal hood
3) two 5.5 UV filters - B+W s.5.5 010 1x
4) one UV MRC filter, 39mm
After having a look, this is what I actually have:
1) The same lens
2) the rubber hood is actually the 90/4 lens hood...
3) The metal hood is still here, but I actually don't know which lens it belongs to. Since the 40cron had a special rubber hood, I'm afraid this hood is for a 35mm lens.
It's a screw in 39mm thread
4) The B+W UV is actually not MRC. It shows the same reflections as the rest of the rest of the filters. What's written on it is : B+W 39 010 UV-Haze 1x
5) Well, I found out that I have another UV filter, but it's still not MRC. It's a LEICA E39 UVa 1331.
To sum it up, I have two hoods and many filters. Non of the filters is MRC.
Regarding the hoods, the rubber is certainly out of the question (and I don't intend to cut it or something like that). The metal, might be usefull but not as much as it could be (BTW, can I connect it after a 39mm filter?).
I can try all the combinations and check vignette wide open and flares, but you might help and save me some time
many thanks
Assaf
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Al Kaplan
Veteran
Find yourself an old metal series VI hood. Trim all the rubber off the metal ring of your old shade, but you can leave the bit of rubber left in the groove. The ring should now be a push fit into the rear of your series VI shade. Glue in place.
40oz
...
lose the filter. The lens design and coatings are for nothing if you insist on putting a filter in front of it.
You can use a hood to reduce flare from out-of-frame light sources, but as long as you have the filter on there you'll see the kind of ugly effects that convinced the rest of us filters are special-effect pieces only.
You can use a hood to reduce flare from out-of-frame light sources, but as long as you have the filter on there you'll see the kind of ugly effects that convinced the rest of us filters are special-effect pieces only.
Wuddy
Member
Hello,
it is my impression too, that the Summicron-c is very prone to flare.
I have the original hood and no filter. I guess you have to take that
into account when shooting towards the sun.
Mine is also not terribly sharp, the Summaron 35/2.8 is a lot sharper,
is this normal?
Best regards
Michael
it is my impression too, that the Summicron-c is very prone to flare.
I have the original hood and no filter. I guess you have to take that
into account when shooting towards the sun.
Mine is also not terribly sharp, the Summaron 35/2.8 is a lot sharper,
is this normal?
Best regards
Michael
Bassism
Well-known
It's always been my experience that filters will almost always flare.
I've found that my SMC Takumars, of similar vintage to your cron, will rarely flare in situations like that, but as soon as I put a filter in front of them they're garbage.
Try some tests without the filter. You might like the results. I use UV filters as a transparent lens cap. That way I can shoot quickly if I see something good, or pull the filter off and take a proper shot if there's time.
I've found that my SMC Takumars, of similar vintage to your cron, will rarely flare in situations like that, but as soon as I put a filter in front of them they're garbage.
Try some tests without the filter. You might like the results. I use UV filters as a transparent lens cap. That way I can shoot quickly if I see something good, or pull the filter off and take a proper shot if there's time.