Flash advice

I have the Metz 34 CS-2 http://bit.ly/dwi3y0 and it's a absolutely brilliant design and works fantastic with my Leica and RD-1.

A lot of the people you mentioned were working with the best that was formally available (considering the Leica SD flash was a frustrating piece sh*t).

If I wanted a flash that would suit all my needs and work perfectly with the Leica system, I would get their new flash. It seems way better and more intelligent than all the older options...

http://www.cameratown.com/news/news.cfm/hurl/id%7C7226
 
ederek said:
I was very frustrated this past weekend when I couldn't get the Pocket Wizard TT1 transmitter (for Canon) to work with the digital M. It is supposed to work in manual trigger-only mode (have latest firmware installed), but haven't been able to trigger a flash yet.. Tried the Flex TT5 as a transmitter and still no dice. grrr - need to figure this out!

Anyone using the newer Pocket Wizards with an M?
Click to expand...

I know what you mean, I have two sets of the cheap ones from ebay. They work on some flashes and not others and they work on some cameras and not others. Luckily, all my cameras that I use for flash work with all my strobes when I use the Cyber Sync.

Also, as someone above said the ebay triggers do work fine with short distances. I added a tuned antennae to one of mine so I could use it up to 30 feet. But I hardly ever use them anymore.
 
Once you 'prove the concept' with the ebay triggers, it seems everyone gets PWs (and more modern flashes). The PWs only handle to 200v.
 
Thanks to everyone for chiming in!

charjohncarter, thanks for showing me the yongnuo system!
It looks quite promising, I like that I don't need any cables and I bypass the entire voltage issue.

I'm going to order a set now and will post how everything works out!
 
Hey! I received the trigger set, and it works perfectly. I can definitely recommend it over a cable if anyone else is having the same dilemma I had at the start of this thread!

After school tomorrow I'm going to hit the street and see if I get lucky 🙂
 
RichardB said:
but holding a flash in one hand and the camera in the other seems like a recipe for disaster in any fluid situation.
Click to expand...

I don't believe so. I do this every time I shoot wedding receptions and it love the light control I get. Being able to switch from left of camera to right of camera, or high above a subject does wonder for changing the feel of the scene. Or, just to get past a body which would otherwise block the flash. Works quite well in fluid situations.
 
charjohncarter said:
Which ones??
Click to expand...

The yongnuo rf-602's!

I've only photographed twice with them real short.
The last eight weeks I've been hauling around Large format monorail camera's. Our next eight weeks, starting 2 weeks from now, features the theme: 'City life(s)! How awesome is that! I think I'm going to go full out street crazy on this one. A big change from the reserved portraits (which I dig also). Maybe an a5 book(let) with flash close ups in portait mode left and right, varied with landscape full spread street shots.

Oh and I just got in 50 rolls of neopan 400, about 6 rolls a week, photographing in the day, back to school when it gets dark, developing, making contacts and go home and check everything out! I have the best school ever!

I'm going to do a couple of rolls to warm up next week so I can show my teacher some rough ideas. I won't forget to post some here on the forum.
 
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First week and I've come up with too many cliche images I'm not going to post here; except one:

20101028veranderdit001.jpg

scanned work print; I decided to not scare them, but wait and sort of dance around them, hence the strange look. I like the interaction

My framing needs work, at this super fast speed, I'm simply centering everyone's face in the middle of my frame, and that's a big no no, it doesn't look right. I will continue and post the outcome, maybe when the project is done in 8 weeks.
 
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It seems to me that if the triggering circuit within the camera were solid state that it might or might not be able to withstand hundreds of volts on the PC sync connection.

Older cameras which used metal switch closure are probably immune from this worry. My best guess is that with the emergence of plastic cameras in the 80s and their accompanying solid state control, this became an issue with some models. Some user manuals specify the limits of this voltage. I think that with the D700 it is 275V or some such high value. With some Canon dSLRs, it is ten or less volts that can be tolerated by the solid state switch inside the camera.

🙂
 
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