Nachkebia
Well-known
Hello, As you know
I am enjoying my new ZI system, actualy absolutly love it
so I was thinking what kind of flash I can use? just for fill flashing portraits, and are zeiss planing to put out some more accessories?
Thank you
Thank you
S
Socke
Guest
Since the ZI has no TTL flash controll, any auto flash unit should do. I'd look for a more modern one with a low trigger voltage since AE cameras usualy can't stand high flash voltages. Since I like tilt and swivel flash heads I'd do for a Metz 54.
Something I wan't to try is handholding the flash with an extension cord, then a smaller flash without moving head is good enough but I'm unsure if I can aim it.
Something I wan't to try is handholding the flash with an extension cord, then a smaller flash without moving head is good enough but I'm unsure if I can aim it.
Nachkebia
Well-known
Thank you!
You mean this particular model? http://www.adorama.com/MZ54MZ4S.html
You mean this particular model? http://www.adorama.com/MZ54MZ4S.html
RObert Budding
D'oh!
The metz 54 MZ-4 is an excellent flash. I've used mine with a Mamiya 645 (TTL), Nikon D200 (TTL), and a Bronica RF645 (auto).
SDK
Exposing since 1969.
The Metz 54MZ series are excellent, though rather complicated flashes. The instruction book is thick, and the flashes have lots of modes you won't need if you do not have TTL, which the ZI lacks. Sometimes turning these modes on and off is not straightforward, and you have to consult the book. I have a 54MZ-3 for TTL and HSS flash on my M7s, but sometimes it's overkill.
A more straightforward and almost as potent Metz unit is the 44MZ-2, see http://www.metz.de/en/photo_electronics/mecablitz_44_MZ-2.175.html . I have one of these too, and it offers most of the same features like zoom and bounce, but is slightly lighter, easier to operate and only slightly less powerful. 44MZ-2's can't do HSS, but neither can the ZI. Like the 54MZ series, the 44MZ-2 uses Metz's SCA 3002 system, so you can use it for TTL on just about any camera, though not for all the features the 54MZ's support. Also 44MZ-2's cost less than their big brothers.
A more straightforward and almost as potent Metz unit is the 44MZ-2, see http://www.metz.de/en/photo_electronics/mecablitz_44_MZ-2.175.html . I have one of these too, and it offers most of the same features like zoom and bounce, but is slightly lighter, easier to operate and only slightly less powerful. 44MZ-2's can't do HSS, but neither can the ZI. Like the 54MZ series, the 44MZ-2 uses Metz's SCA 3002 system, so you can use it for TTL on just about any camera, though not for all the features the 54MZ's support. Also 44MZ-2's cost less than their big brothers.
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S
Socke
Guest
The 54MZ is on my "consider it" list
With the right SCA adapter I can use it on all my cameras.
Nachkebia
Well-known
Thank you for sugestiongs!
patrickjames : exactly! it has to be small!
thank you for your help!
patrickjames : exactly! it has to be small!
nksyoon
Well-known
I just bought a Vivitar 2500 on a BIN auction for £9.95. It looks like the maximum size I'd use on an R-D1. Clive Evans who's an RFF member, uses the 2500 on his R-D1s without any voltage problems. The 2500 can be used manually and also has 2 auto f-stop ranges.
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jano
Evil Bokeh
Heretic! Blaspheeeemer! BEGONE from whence you came! 
SDK
Exposing since 1969.
nksyoon said:I just bought a Vivitar 2500 on a BIN auction for £9.95. It looks like the maximum size I'd use on an R-D1. Clive Evans who's an RFF member, uses the 2500 on his R-D1s without any voltage problems. The 2500 can be used manually and also has 2 auto f-stop ranges.
The Metz flashes are much better, though of course they cost much more. You get what you pay for. The 54MZ-3/ 54MZ-4 and 44MZ-2 flashes have 10 automatic f/stops to choose from.
I had a cheap Vivitar 2800 back in my early college days, and it was crap at autoflash. Very few shots were adequately exposed. When I got my Nikon SB-20 it was a revelation; in TTL the little Nikon was heaven, but it was also quite good in auto mode. It made me realize the Vivitar was nearly worthless! A used SB-20 might work on a ZI, but you would have to make sure the dedicated Nikon TTL contacts don't short out on the ZI. There may be some adapter shoe you could use between the flash and hot shoe on the camera.
My advice to flash on film newbies is to use color negative or C41 black & white film rated at 1 + 2/3 stops to 2 stops below rated ISO. Use slow flash sync speeds indoors to get some background detail. When printed, you will get much more open shadows and less harsh highlights due to the tonal compression effect of well exposed color negative film. If you prefer traditional black & white films, overexpose 2 stops, then underdevelop the film 20-50% (you will have to do tests to see what works best for your film/developer combo).
I don't know if you can do similar tricks with digital cameras, but you can contrast correct post exposure easily in digital.
W
wlewisiii
Guest
Flash? Hmm... I dunno... Does the ZI have M sync? :angel:
<G,D, & R>
William
<G,D, & R>
William
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