ahab
Newbie
i just got an R-D1 and am wondering if anyone has used a flash with it. the only flash i have right now is my old nikon sb-16.
jlw
Rangefinder camera pedant
I have done a lot of R-D 1 shots with both AC-powered studio flashes and hot-shoe flashes (Minolta 360PX and a small Canon shoe-mount flash the model number of which escapes me at the moment.)
It works great, although keep in mind that there are no dedication features at all, so you have to remember to set the shutter speed to X-sync or slower. Also, there's no separate flash option for white balance; try the daylight or overcast options as a starting point and see how you like them. (If you're shooting in raw mode, you can always tweak it later.)
Another peculiarity of flash on the R-D 1 is that the sync circuit is polarized. (Many newer electronic cameras are; it means that because the flash is fired by a transistor rather than a mechanical switch, the circuit will work if the sync current flows in one direction but not the other.)
This shouldn't cause problems with shoe-mounted flash units, which have a standardized polarity. But if you use an AC-powered unit, it won't fire unless the polarity of its sync circuit is compatible. What if it isn't? If your flash uses an H-connector sync cable, the easy fix is just to turn the H end over, switching the polarity. If your flash uses a coaxial connector, you may need a "sync reverser" cable from the flash manufacturer, or use an add-on "sync isolator" such as the Wein Safe-Sync.
It works great, although keep in mind that there are no dedication features at all, so you have to remember to set the shutter speed to X-sync or slower. Also, there's no separate flash option for white balance; try the daylight or overcast options as a starting point and see how you like them. (If you're shooting in raw mode, you can always tweak it later.)
Another peculiarity of flash on the R-D 1 is that the sync circuit is polarized. (Many newer electronic cameras are; it means that because the flash is fired by a transistor rather than a mechanical switch, the circuit will work if the sync current flows in one direction but not the other.)
This shouldn't cause problems with shoe-mounted flash units, which have a standardized polarity. But if you use an AC-powered unit, it won't fire unless the polarity of its sync circuit is compatible. What if it isn't? If your flash uses an H-connector sync cable, the easy fix is just to turn the H end over, switching the polarity. If your flash uses a coaxial connector, you may need a "sync reverser" cable from the flash manufacturer, or use an add-on "sync isolator" such as the Wein Safe-Sync.
ahab
Newbie
thanks for the advice.