DFigueira
Established
Hi guy's,
I've received an FM2n from a member from here on RFF forum.
The camera is well used but I wanted to give it life again so it's going to repair but I need a couple of questions about it.
This is my second time outside the M42 world. Even thought I love the amount of lenses and cameras on the M42, I have decided to try to trade it.
So the game here is, if I like the nikon "world" more than the M42, I will keep the nikon as a 2nd cameras to my RF for more delicate work.
These are the questions:
- Lenses. I've tried to estimate arounde the web what lenses should I use and what lenses I should not. Since there are a lot of glass for these cameras, I wanted to know the right lens for my purpose. I'm trying to find a 35mm for it on the cheap since I've got into the wides lately but or I'm finding some expensive glass or trash... so I might be searching wrong or the 35mm is way more expensive than the 50mm E?
And what type of lenses should I ignore for the future?
- Pieces. The best way to find pieces from this camera is throught the major auction site or there are dedicated shops that sell cheaper pieces for it? I'm talking about the battery cover and the self time lever.
- CLA. How many years should I take between each CLA? I'm talking about this because I have m42 cameras that their last CLA was some years ago and working correctly, but since this is out of my range of knowledge, how many years should I take it if it's for "mediocre" usage?
- Grips. How many types of grips exists for this camera? A problem that I found is the size of it. I like small cameras to carry around but to grab them sometimes is an hassle since my hands are kinda big...
I know I could be around the internet searching for some things from this but I like to know some user input of it.. :angel:
Thank you very much!
I've received an FM2n from a member from here on RFF forum.
The camera is well used but I wanted to give it life again so it's going to repair but I need a couple of questions about it.
This is my second time outside the M42 world. Even thought I love the amount of lenses and cameras on the M42, I have decided to try to trade it.
So the game here is, if I like the nikon "world" more than the M42, I will keep the nikon as a 2nd cameras to my RF for more delicate work.
These are the questions:
- Lenses. I've tried to estimate arounde the web what lenses should I use and what lenses I should not. Since there are a lot of glass for these cameras, I wanted to know the right lens for my purpose. I'm trying to find a 35mm for it on the cheap since I've got into the wides lately but or I'm finding some expensive glass or trash... so I might be searching wrong or the 35mm is way more expensive than the 50mm E?
And what type of lenses should I ignore for the future?
- Pieces. The best way to find pieces from this camera is throught the major auction site or there are dedicated shops that sell cheaper pieces for it? I'm talking about the battery cover and the self time lever.
- CLA. How many years should I take between each CLA? I'm talking about this because I have m42 cameras that their last CLA was some years ago and working correctly, but since this is out of my range of knowledge, how many years should I take it if it's for "mediocre" usage?
- Grips. How many types of grips exists for this camera? A problem that I found is the size of it. I like small cameras to carry around but to grab them sometimes is an hassle since my hands are kinda big...
I know I could be around the internet searching for some things from this but I like to know some user input of it.. :angel:
Thank you very much!
Timmyjoe
Veteran
Hi, Congrats on your newly acquired FM2n.
Few things, the lenses are personal choice. My go to 35mm is an old Nikkor OC that was AI'd. I've heard good and bad things about the 35mm f1.4 AIS lens, so you might explore that as well.
Battery covers are available through the big auction site, never seen a self timer lever there. Might want to check with a Nikon service center.
I've had my FM2n since new in 1996 and have never had a CLA done to it. If yours is rather worn, you might want to consider one, but after it's done, the camera should be good for years/decades.
My hands are too big for my FM2n also, so I only use it with the MD-12 motor drive attached, which makes for a very comfortable grip.
Good luck with your new camera.
Few things, the lenses are personal choice. My go to 35mm is an old Nikkor OC that was AI'd. I've heard good and bad things about the 35mm f1.4 AIS lens, so you might explore that as well.
Battery covers are available through the big auction site, never seen a self timer lever there. Might want to check with a Nikon service center.
I've had my FM2n since new in 1996 and have never had a CLA done to it. If yours is rather worn, you might want to consider one, but after it's done, the camera should be good for years/decades.
My hands are too big for my FM2n also, so I only use it with the MD-12 motor drive attached, which makes for a very comfortable grip.
Good luck with your new camera.
DFigueira
Established
Too bad that lens from Japan is a whooping price of 100+€...
Gonna try that.
Mine is not only worn, that it has a problem on advancing the film but the guy that said that it would CLA it, said it might just be that. The need of CLA.
Isn't that grip very heavy? And I don't need them motor, only the grip itself.
css9450
Veteran
I picked up a well-used AI (probably late-70s vintage) 35/f2 and used it for years on my FM2 and later my N90S. Sharp as a tack and since cosmetically it looked "used" it was priced accordingly. Glass was perfect however.
The MD12 makes for a great grip but some here aren't a fan of it because a) its noisy and b) if you do something wrong sometimes it can get out of sync with the camera and not work right until you get it oriented correctly, which is easy. After years of use I found the issue to be highly exaggerated.
The MD12 makes for a great grip but some here aren't a fan of it because a) its noisy and b) if you do something wrong sometimes it can get out of sync with the camera and not work right until you get it oriented correctly, which is easy. After years of use I found the issue to be highly exaggerated.
Rangefinder 35
Well-known
The lenses that I had used on my Nikon FM2Nm and remember as being exceptional optically are 55/2.8 Micro, 105/2.5 AI, and 180/2.8 AI. These three make it worthy owning Nikon system.
kshapero
South Florida Man
A great camera. CLA's are according to your usage, not years of ownership. A great combo for this rig is the Ais 50 mm f1.8 late version, sharp as anything and light (not the E) and an Ai (not the Ais, hood is too fiddly) 105 mm f2.5.
Nyc Dito
Established
as far as lenses are concerned i really enjoyed using my 28mm f2.8 ais. Sharp lens and fast enough for pretty much anything i needed it for =)
marcr1230
Well-known
it all depends in the end
the MD-12 is awesome, adds a lot of heft to the package though, makes nice manly sounds, not appropriate for libraries and other quiet environments. I find sometimes when attaching it takes a couple tries to get it sync'ed and seated properly, but I'm new at this - and do remember to turn it off when not in use - I lost a set of batteries this way. It is a godsend for left-eyed shooters because without the motor, the camera meter is only on when the manual wind lever is pulled out a bit.
Lenses - so much good stuff out there - try a couple/few an keep what you like
the MD-12 is awesome, adds a lot of heft to the package though, makes nice manly sounds, not appropriate for libraries and other quiet environments. I find sometimes when attaching it takes a couple tries to get it sync'ed and seated properly, but I'm new at this - and do remember to turn it off when not in use - I lost a set of batteries this way. It is a godsend for left-eyed shooters because without the motor, the camera meter is only on when the manual wind lever is pulled out a bit.
Lenses - so much good stuff out there - try a couple/few an keep what you like
Archlich
Well-known
The excellent Nikkor 35/2 lenses are readily available everywhere. The Auto, K, AI, AI-S versions all use the same optical design since 1965, so grab which ever AI-converted lens you feel like having.
The dedicated MD-12 is a motor winder rather than a simple ergonomic piece like the Leica 14405 grip, which also helps keeping the package small. Nikon never made one in the later's fashion. The third party option I'd recommend is the finely-crafted GMP F-Grip and the later FM-Grip. They're somewhat rare, but occasionally come up on the 'bay. A Hong Kong seller is selling some nice looking ones on the 'bay as well, might worth looking into. Don't buy the Japanese made aluminum blocks though.
The FM2n has a reputation of being an ultra durable workhorse in keeping with the tradition of mechanical Nikon SLRs. I don't think you need to CLA it often...once in a decade maybe. It may never need one and still work well.
The dedicated MD-12 is a motor winder rather than a simple ergonomic piece like the Leica 14405 grip, which also helps keeping the package small. Nikon never made one in the later's fashion. The third party option I'd recommend is the finely-crafted GMP F-Grip and the later FM-Grip. They're somewhat rare, but occasionally come up on the 'bay. A Hong Kong seller is selling some nice looking ones on the 'bay as well, might worth looking into. Don't buy the Japanese made aluminum blocks though.
The FM2n has a reputation of being an ultra durable workhorse in keeping with the tradition of mechanical Nikon SLRs. I don't think you need to CLA it often...once in a decade maybe. It may never need one and still work well.
rbsinto
Well-known
By way of full disclosure, I own and use an FM2 with an MD-12 motor drive attached, and think it is all the camera one needs for film photography.
Which lenses to buy will of course depend on which genres you photograph and your favorite focal lengths, so other than telling you that Nikon produced the largest collection of manual focus lenses available for 35mm cameras, you'll have to decide for yourself which you'll need. Then you might ask which of the various incarnations of a particular focal length others recommend based on lens speed, image quality and price.
As for a grip, Nikon didn't make any for the FM-2, but as has already been mentioned, the MD-11 or MD-12 motor dives work well in this capacity. If you don't need the motor as a film advance accessory, then attach it and leave out the 8 AA batteries to lighten it up.
The MD-11 is the older of the two drives and is less desirable as it stays on until switched off, unlike the MD-12 which has a 30-second kill switch, to conserve battery power.
Thus if to be used only as a grip, buy the MD-11 as it will be cheaper.
I hope this information is helpful.
Robert
Which lenses to buy will of course depend on which genres you photograph and your favorite focal lengths, so other than telling you that Nikon produced the largest collection of manual focus lenses available for 35mm cameras, you'll have to decide for yourself which you'll need. Then you might ask which of the various incarnations of a particular focal length others recommend based on lens speed, image quality and price.
As for a grip, Nikon didn't make any for the FM-2, but as has already been mentioned, the MD-11 or MD-12 motor dives work well in this capacity. If you don't need the motor as a film advance accessory, then attach it and leave out the 8 AA batteries to lighten it up.
The MD-11 is the older of the two drives and is less desirable as it stays on until switched off, unlike the MD-12 which has a 30-second kill switch, to conserve battery power.
Thus if to be used only as a grip, buy the MD-11 as it will be cheaper.
I hope this information is helpful.
Robert
DFigueira
Established
It seems I could be doomed... the guy I was going to send the camera said that for pure coincidence that opened a Nikon FA on the day before that had the same problem and couldn't repair it since it was a broken piece. Bah..
rbsinto
Well-known
If an FM2n is all you'll need to make your life complete, you can get a "Bargain" grade engraved body from KEH (www.keh.com) for $208.00 US plus shipping, or a "Bargain" grade body for $238.00 US plus shipping.
And if there is a problem with it, they'll take it back and refund your money.
Seem like good deals to me.
Robert
And if there is a problem with it, they'll take it back and refund your money.
Seem like good deals to me.
Robert
DFigueira
Established
I've thought of selling this nikon, my rangefinder and another SLR I have and I would have the money to buy those Nikons but my location won't help.
The major problem on my life is that I live in Portugal.
I don't have many way's out regarding on developing film, getting cameras and repairing them.
Today I found a guy that repairs cameras but I can only contact him at a monthly fair on each 23th of the month and I don't even know if he only repairs antique cameras or all of them :/
For now I will try to get one to salvage pieces or getting the self timer lever and the battery cover...
But seriously, haven't anyone had this problem? I advance the film and then I have to advance a few times slowly to the end to cock the shutter. Sometimes it takes 2 to 3 times, other times I have to do a lot of times. And I can't cock the shutter directly when I shoot the camera.
I shoot it then I will advance the lever but I reach an halt (something that makes the lever stop), then I leave the lever and advance it again to the end.
The major problem on my life is that I live in Portugal.
I don't have many way's out regarding on developing film, getting cameras and repairing them.
Today I found a guy that repairs cameras but I can only contact him at a monthly fair on each 23th of the month and I don't even know if he only repairs antique cameras or all of them :/
For now I will try to get one to salvage pieces or getting the self timer lever and the battery cover...
But seriously, haven't anyone had this problem? I advance the film and then I have to advance a few times slowly to the end to cock the shutter. Sometimes it takes 2 to 3 times, other times I have to do a lot of times. And I can't cock the shutter directly when I shoot the camera.
I shoot it then I will advance the lever but I reach an halt (something that makes the lever stop), then I leave the lever and advance it again to the end.