Focussing problem M10-R Leica Summicron-M 50mm F2

[Rogier]

This camera and lens are relatively new to me. I have notices that when I take a"portrait" pictured say about about 2 meter distance that the focus is in front of where I intended it to be. For example picture of my spouse where I focus on her eyes they turn out to be blurry while the actual sharpness is in front of her.
Have a look at this simple picture I took early morning in the freezing cold of this bicycle. I am 100% sure I focussed on the called but the left handle bar and bell are actually in focus!

Of course this is most noticeable with the aperture wide open (F2.0)

I have send the camera and lens(es) to a reputable Leica repair person for a CLA but they determined that the rangefinder and the lenses are absolutely in order and it must be a user error. They advised me to focus on the persons ears rather than the eyes..

Is this normal?

 

[LCT]

The Summicron 50/2 v4 and v5 have a bit of focus shift at around f/4. You may wish to check with an EVF if you have one.

 

[brusby]

Have you confirmed rangefinder focus with live view? If not, put the camera on a tripod, focus with rangefinder and then without changing anything, check focus with live view magnified.

If they agree, it's likely user error. If not either your camera rangefinder or lens focus is off.

 

[Richard G]

My 50 2 v4 served me well on film for 30 years. With the M9 I uncovered it front focused at f2 by over 1cm at minimum focus. I got it fixed. My photos are no better, or worse. The Zeiss C Sonnar 50 is a wonderful lens, known to have focus shift. I tested mine with a very anccurate set-up: it’s optimized for around f2,2 or 2,4 - I can’t remember which now. Some are said to be optimized for f1,5 and others f2,8. There are many happy users who even knowing of this find no problem with the lens. Others view it as a specialty lens for rare use. I’m hoping no-one suffered any mental trauma, poring over files and staring at the lens, but many got rid of it.

Medium format users tend to learn more about aperture and focus. The real enemy is inaccurate focus, coupled with body sway. For a really sharp image with a Hasselblad a tripod makes a huge difference, not just keeping the camera still but removing human body sway. Even then, with the legendary Acute Matte D focus screen, the precise point of focus is only found easily after a learning curve. Strange, but true.

The solution to all of this is to close the aperture one or two stops.

There are many psychological insights from unexpected quarters in photography. The Camera Clinic in Melbourne quoted on adjusting my Summicron, making sure to point out that my beautiful tiny lens would come back with a new white aperture setting dot, and the old one nearby blackened but noticeable still. I did not hesitate to proceed.

Years later some minor trauma with a favourite Zeiss 35 was despatched in seconds by the same man. After listening to my account he lifted the lens to his ear and briefly shook it. “A screw loose.” (The lens, not me.)

 

[Rogier]

The error is consistent but I will make an extra effort by putting it on a tripod and create a test setup to confirm and measure the problem.

 

[Rogier]

I did a proper test, by putting the camera on a tripod and take some test shots at various apertures.
Indeed it must be be user error... Disappointing to see how often I miss a shot when I try to take a nice portrait of my spouse 🥲

 

[Richard G]

The best outcome. Jane Bown used an Olympus with a 50. When asked about her technique she half mischievously and half helpfully offered “There’s an exposure I like, f2.8 at 1/60th.” Wide enough fo give some shallowness of sharp focus, but stopped down enough not to miss focus; and 1/60th keeps sitter and photographer concentrating on their work, and avoids the dull too sharp instant of a shot taken at 1/1000s.

 

[Godfrey]

I did a proper test, by putting the camera on a tripod and take some test shots at various apertures.
Indeed it must be be user error... Disappointing to see how often I miss a shot when I try to take a nice portrait of my spouse 🥲

View attachment 4883818

Yes. The vast majority of focusing problems are user problems, not equipment problems.

Shooting portraits is always tricky. Getting the focus right is just one factor. Minimizing your own body movement, timing your exposure to get the best expression and least movement of the subject ... everything matters. I find that using a 75 to 90 mm lens helps a good bit as the perspective is a little bit more 'natural' to my eye, and the subject distance for the right size image on the sensor means that their movement (and mine) is smaller relative to the focus distance. But 50mm is certainly doable with practice.

G