foma 100/200/400 unfiltered (effects on sky)

[msbarnes]

I'm interested in a cheap/inexpensive film that I can use for my point and shoots that do not have filter threads. foma/arista.edu seems pretty cheap, but how do they handle skys? I do not like white skys (nor dark for that matter) but gray tones and hence I normally use a yellow filter. From my experience (and also others) it seems that some films like Tmax and Acros have a "built-in" yellow filters. How does foma compare? Any unfiltered examples? I hear that 200 is "modern/T grain" but I do not know if it will give the skys I like.

Also, for future reference, do I phrase this more technically? I'm asking about the spectral sensitivity towards blue? When it comes to films/development I do not really know the technical jargon so much.

 

[haempe]

Foma films have a classic spectral sensivity. Would not be my first choice for your needs.
You should have a look onto superpanchromatic film.
For example the Rollei 80s and 400s, former aerial films, have a lower blue sensitivity and cover more of the long waved part of the spectrum.
One could say, this works like a build-in yellow filter.
Not sure if this is enough effect for your needs, but it's worth a attempt ...

 

[maxwell1295]

Don't know if this is what you're looking for but here are a few samples of the Arista.EDU Foma films. I never use filters.

Foma 100 (35mm) @ 200:

sandy_025 by alanabramsphotography, on Flickr

Here's 400 (120) @ 320:

Northport Harbor 2 by alanabramsphotography, on Flickr

 

[znapper]

I tried Foma 100 without filter, with red #25 filter, with #25 red filter + pola.

I metered, to the best of my ability, the darkest parts of the clouds to zone III, the highlights were then at zone V (I used my Canon 1v's spot-meter) and took a photo without filter.
Metered again with a Hoya #25 red filter on and took another photo.
Then I mounted my Polarization filter on-top of my red filter, metered again and took another photo.

This scan is un-processed concerning dust, it also show the difference between the frames, as they appear on the negative strip. (separated scans would most likely be so customized that the differences would be hard to judge)

The development was N+2 from a guestimated development time at 8 minutes at EI 100 for foma in HC-110 dilution H. This pulled the highlights up to around zone VII (I don't have a densiometer), while keeping the darker tones pretty dark.

The final develoment was 12,5 minutes HC-110 dilution H.

Pretty grainy in 35mm (can be my scanning technique that is lacking), but I am pretty positive that this kind of messing around isn't too bad for 120.

I suppose that the unfiltered shot shows what you are looking for...?