Johnmcd
Well-known
Pretty excited about using this new film (for me anyways). What can I expect? The guy I got it off suggested a similar look to Kodak Plus-X. He also suggested a true speed of 320 for the 400.
Developers? I have Ilfosol 3, DDX, TMax, Rodinal and two Foma devlopers that I got with the film, Fomadon LQN and Fomadon LQR. Any suggestions?
BTW, for Sydneysiders I highly recommend you try http://blanconegro.com.au/store/ for some very keen pricing. The owner Chris is keeping wet printing alive and making available a wide range of Foma products. This is especially important now that Vanbar is no more.
Cheers - John
Developers? I have Ilfosol 3, DDX, TMax, Rodinal and two Foma devlopers that I got with the film, Fomadon LQN and Fomadon LQR. Any suggestions?
BTW, for Sydneysiders I highly recommend you try http://blanconegro.com.au/store/ for some very keen pricing. The owner Chris is keeping wet printing alive and making available a wide range of Foma products. This is especially important now that Vanbar is no more.
Cheers - John
PrestonR
Established
My mainstay black and white film is foma 400. I tried the 200 and didn't care for it. I expose mine at ISO 250 and develop in d76 1:1 for 7-7.5 mins. Foma 100 isn't bad. I've only tried that at box speed but I may expose at 50 ISO and develop for 6 mins in diluted d76. I do like to pre-soak the film before I develop. It turns the developer blue pretty quickly. I've read a lot about horrible curling problems in 120 but all of the fomapan I've ever used has been pretty flat.
Johnmcd
Well-known
x-ray
Veteran
I've used quite a lot of the 200 in sheet. It's the best film I've found for platinum printing. It responds exceptionally well to process time adjustments to adjust contrast. Platinum requires a very contrasty net and the 200 can be processed for extended times without blockng details in highlights. I use HC110 and rate at 160. It's also excellent processed normally in HC110 for silver gelatin printing. In either case I rate it at 160 for slightly fuller shadows.
For zone system fans this would be an excellent film.
I never cared for plus x and from my experience don't feel this is anything like PX. I think it's much closer to Super XX.
I've not used much in 35mm but what I did use I liked it.
For zone system fans this would be an excellent film.
I never cared for plus x and from my experience don't feel this is anything like PX. I think it's much closer to Super XX.
I've not used much in 35mm but what I did use I liked it.
Markus B
Member
I'm actuallt in the process of developing and scanning 11 rolls of Fomapan 400 in 135-format during the weekend. I use Fomapan 400 and Kentmere 400 as my main films, mainly because they're cheap and dry flat.
I use Rodinal/R09 as my developer of convenience and because of its durability. For Fomapan 400 I use 1+50 for 11-12 minutes, E.I 320-400. I'm not so good at the technical side of film developing so I havent done any scientific evaluation of my work flow. It works for me and for the time being I'm happy with that. I scan my negatives on a Minolta Scan Dual III and do the post processing in the computer.
Here is on the the pictures scanned today, with some fast post processing in PS. Camera was Leica M5 with Voigtländer Nokton 35/1.4.:
If you're intrested here are some files in full resolution:
Straight out of the scanner. No P.P (color balance set to auto levels in Vuescan)
http://mb90.tk/pic/fp400_r09_sos.jpg
Post processed:
http://mb90.tk/pic/fp400_r09_crc.jpg
I use Rodinal/R09 as my developer of convenience and because of its durability. For Fomapan 400 I use 1+50 for 11-12 minutes, E.I 320-400. I'm not so good at the technical side of film developing so I havent done any scientific evaluation of my work flow. It works for me and for the time being I'm happy with that. I scan my negatives on a Minolta Scan Dual III and do the post processing in the computer.
Here is on the the pictures scanned today, with some fast post processing in PS. Camera was Leica M5 with Voigtländer Nokton 35/1.4.:
If you're intrested here are some files in full resolution:
Straight out of the scanner. No P.P (color balance set to auto levels in Vuescan)
http://mb90.tk/pic/fp400_r09_sos.jpg
Post processed:
http://mb90.tk/pic/fp400_r09_crc.jpg
presspass
filmshooter
The 400 will be grainy; older rolls of this were also very soft - be careful if you wipe the wet emulsion to avoid water spots. The 200 is outstanding, but builds contrast very easily. I've found it works well in a compensating developer; I use D-23 or one of the two-bath variants such as Thornton's two-bath. It also reacts to agitation. If your first results are too contrasty, reduce the number and frequency of agitations and agitate SOFTLY - no martini shaker moves.
Bingley
Veteran
I have not shot 400, but I love 200. It's the closest film I've found to Plus-X, and great if you want a vintage look with lovely mid-tones and rich dark grays. I develop in HC 110 dil h for 7 mins. at 20C, with 30 seconds initial agitation and three inversions per minute thereafter. Here's a sample (more on my flickr):
Healdsberg, CA by bingley0522, on Flickr
Healdsberg, CA by bingley0522, on Flickr
JPSuisse
Well-known
Hi All!
Can anybody post some shots of 200 developed in Acurol-N, Rodinal and/or DD-X?
I'm really looking for a replacment for PX, so Blingley's comment above really interests me!
John
Can anybody post some shots of 200 developed in Acurol-N, Rodinal and/or DD-X?
I'm really looking for a replacment for PX, so Blingley's comment above really interests me!
John
PrestonR
Established
Glad I could help. Here is a photo with that combination.
Attachments
michaelwj
----------------
Hi John,
Thanks for the info. Where in Sydney are they located? I was just about to walk into Vanbar in Melbourne and get 100' of hp5, but at nearly half the cost...
charjohncarter
Veteran
I've used them both but really only have experience with 400. HC-110h, Rodinal and Arista Liquid Developer have given me what I want, they did take some testing and trail and error. Like someone above I shoot at 200 and tend to use a yellow, orange or red filter in sunlight. I find 400 to be a little blue sensitive. I think 400 is a great indoor or cloudy day film. You will find with a little testing (work) you can enjoy it.
Sunny outdoor no filter:
AristaEDUultra400 Rodinal1+50 by John Carter, on Flickr
Indoor
Arista EDU Ultra 400 Rodinal 1+50 by John Carter, on Flickr
Sunny outdoor no filter:
AristaEDUultra400 Rodinal1+50 by John Carter, on FlickrIndoor
Arista EDU Ultra 400 Rodinal 1+50 by John Carter, on Flickr
Johnmcd
Well-known
Great image! Looks nice and gritty in Rodinal which I have. Have you tried pushing. I currently use Tmax 400 if I think I am going to need 1600 but it's getting super expensive.
Thanks for sharing.
Johnmcd
Well-known
I've heard very good things about the 200, hence my excitement. Another vote for a Plus-X alternative. Vintage look is what I like at the moment. Thanks and I'll check in at Flickr.
Johnmcd
Well-known
Love the tones in this pic!
Johnmcd
Well-known
Recommend any of the more commercial devs? Thanks.
Johnmcd
Well-known
I'm actually an hour north on the Central Coast but work in the Sydney area with one location that was close to Vanbar so it was always convenient. Now it's gone, Blanco Negro is in the same area (Redfern). I like to spend my money locally if I can so happy to support them. Also a chance to try some well regarded Foma products.
Johnmcd
Well-known
Thanks John. I like the wide latitude on those two shots. I think I will enjoy testing both films out.
charjohncarter
Veteran
Actually, you hit on my problem when I first used these films (besides the blue sensitivity). I don't like telling people what to do or use, I live in California and we have plenty of people here telling us what to do and use. So maybe I'm a little sensitive to heavy hands. But I use high dilution (whichever developer use) and I agitate very little; also very gentle agitation. So forget the California stuff and test the way you want: best of luck to you.
Fotohuis
Well-known
I would suggest: Download the Fomapan data sheets from their website which gives already a lot of information about these films. It clearly shows that the FP400 will reach iso 200-250 only in most developers. For the FP200 around iso 160.
For higher iso speed you can use their NEW film: Retropan 320 (Soft) which you can use from iso 320-640 for normal contrast. It is a brand new Fomapan film, so it could be possible it is even not available in Australia yet (or even for the coming months).
Best regards,
Robert
For higher iso speed you can use their NEW film: Retropan 320 (Soft) which you can use from iso 320-640 for normal contrast. It is a brand new Fomapan film, so it could be possible it is even not available in Australia yet (or even for the coming months).
Best regards,
Robert
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Fotohuis
Well-known
FP200 in R09/Rodinal E.I. 125:
M7+Elmarit 28mm +Y filter (so in 35mm format).
C.V. Bessa III 667, 6x7cm roll film format.
I can also recommend Xtol/Fomadon Excel W27 (1+1) and/or PC-TEA for this film, E.I. 160.
This FP 200 film reacts in a remarkable way on the Ultra Fine Grain type developer Windisch W665 1+0, E.I. 80-100.
W665 is containing ortho-Phenylene Diamine. This is an 35mm example of FP200. M7 + Summicron F/2,0-50mm.
Some examples in 35mm with Xtol 1+1. Zorki-4K with Jupiter-8 lens:
