Freestyle's new LegacyPro films

Trius said:
OT...

re: Rodinal at high dilutions ... I personally feel that at 1:100, time is immaterial past a certain minimum. I develop various films (TX, TMY, APX, PANF) 1:100 @ 20 minutes, agitate for 30 seconds and then 3 inversions every 3 minutes thereafter. But I see people specifying one hour for 1:125, and other variations. At 1:100 and above, my guess is that Rodinal develops to exhaustion and agitation is the variable. I haven't tested for the minimum ("correct") dev time at this dilution, but I will.

I am willing to bet that I could eliminate all agitation but the initial 30 seconds, and the results would be the same as my "standard" agitation scheme. In fact, I did just that, and I was correct.

Next I would like to do a reasonably controlled test of 1:125 for 20 minutes and for 1 hour, both stand. I'm betting the results would be the same with the exception of the grain structure. With increased wet time, grain and sharpness might be noticeably compromised.

IOW, I suspect there is a lot of voodoo out there when it comes to Rodinal and stand development.
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I've personally found Neopan 400 to be very grainy in Rodinal (1+125). I've tried cutting back the development time to 45 instead of an hour and haven't noticed a big difference in the negatives. It'll be interesting to see how 20 minutes of stand development would come out. I'll be sure to post any results when I give it a try.
 
I found that the best developer for Neopan 400 Presto is the Pyrocat HD. Fine grain and very sharp without being harsh. I have to mix up a new batch soon though. 500ml of A and B is enough to do 150-175 rolls, so it is cheap too. I use the Sandy King formula 15ml A and 15ml B in 1500 ml of water and constant agitation for the first 60 sec and after that 3 "flips' every 60 sec.
 
notturtle said:
Neopan 400 is grainy in rodinal. Try Xtol 1+1-3 and poss add a dash for Rodinal if you want some crunch.
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Rodinal makes everything grainy for me ... I developed some Kodak Plus-X in it yesterday and it seemed very grainy for this speed emulsion!
 
I found out that with minimal agitation (first 30 seconds, then every 4 minutes for the total of 14 min. developing time), I can get non-grainy results.

3370479685_baf3bb72e1_o.jpg


Pardon the dust, but this is Neopan Acros 100 in 1+50 Rodinal.

Btw, it's a pain to get that film into the reel, it kept unrolling itself, since this is my first Neopan roll, I don't know if that's one iof it's "feature" to keep the negative flat ??
 
Yeah, I seem to get nice low grain results from Neopan in Rodinal t 1+50. In my very limited experience with developing (i've only been doing it for a year), it seems to be all about agitation.
I got decent results from Neopan1600 in Rodinal too i thought.
I've now received some rolls of Legacy Pro so cant wait to try them out :D
 
I'd like to try Neopan 400 in Pyocat HD, as per Tom A's suggestion. Can this, or something similar, be bought commercially ? I am not too much of a DIYer, and don't know where to go hunting for the ingredients.
Subhash
 
Keith said:
Rodinal makes everything grainy for me ... I developed some Kodak Plus-X in it yesterday and it seemed very grainy for this speed emulsion!
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Keith: I like Rodinal but accept that iso 400 films lose about 2/3 or a full stop and don't try to compensate by overdevelopment. I simply shoot at e.i. 250 and use 25% less development time. Yes, there is visible grain but it's really sharp.

I still believe the Agfa published development times try to push to compensate for the lost speed, thus giving the appearance of film with a one stop push.
 
I have a 100ft roll of LegacyPro 400 Andreas and I haven't been paying attention but the frame numbers seem to go up to the 40s and then start back at 1.

Here is a LegacyPro 400 image developed in Rodinal 1:50

3339884158_17eb075a40.jpg



And another in Rodinal 1:100

3366984008_2d653997e2.jpg


Warren
 
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Bob Michaels said:
Keith: I like Rodinal but accept that iso 400 films lose about 2/3 or a full stop and don't try to compensate by overdevelopment. I simply shoot at e.i. 250 and use 25% less development time. Yes, there is visible grain but it's really sharp.

I still believe the Agfa published development times try to push to compensate for the lost speed, thus giving the appearance of film with a one stop push.
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I think the key with Rodinal is minimal agitation ... lately I've been using it at 1+100 for thirty minutes with thirty seconds initial agitation then one inversion every five minutes.

My current 500ml container of Rodinal has gone very brown and has formed crystals around the upper part of the bottle ... looks foul but seems to work fine still though! :p
 
srtiwari said:
Just "Googled" and discovered this site which sells Pyrocat HD kit. It makes 50 litres, and with one-shot developing thats somewhere between 100 and 150 rolls, I would guess.
I'm going to give this a try since I have much Neopan 400, and have been generally disappointed, so far.

http://www.bostick-sullivan.com/cart/product.php?productid=548&cat=154&page=1
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Pyrocat-MC is a bit better than HD and you can get it at Photographer's Formulary or DigitalTruth (hosts the Massive Dev Chart).

http://www.photosensitive.ca/wp/pyrocat-mc
 
Can someone please answer the original question?

Can someone please answer the original question?

I re-read this thread end to end today and it seems no one has answered THIS question which I believe kicked off the whole discussion in the first place:

What is the true identity of Legacy Pro 100?

Acros? SS? Something else entirely?

Speculation based on comparison of published development times, box designs etc. really doesn't prove anything. Empirical results do.

It would be nice to hear from someone with first hand experience with Fuji's ISO 100 emulsions and this Freestyle film.
 
My 100ft roll of Legacy Pro 400 arrived by post today so over the next few days I'll have a chance to test the stuff and see if it reacts as per Neopan 400 ... which I'm sure it will!
 
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