flyingpalm
Well-known
Hi
I just got this camera but I have to ask something maybe it's a dummy one.
The top shutter button won't work until I open the film compartment.
The front one works fine.
What's the problem?:bang:
Thanks
I just got this camera but I have to ask something maybe it's a dummy one.
The top shutter button won't work until I open the film compartment.
The front one works fine.
What's the problem?:bang:
Thanks
ItsReallyDarren
That's really me
The camera needs film.
It can be dry fired with the back open.
It can be dry fired with the back open.
EdSawyer
Established
As mentioned
As mentioned
you can only fire it with the back open if there's no film in it. Put in film, it should fire fine.
As mentioned
you can only fire it with the back open if there's no film in it. Put in film, it should fire fine.
JRG
Well-known
Mr. Butkus has a manual for the GW690III (which is close enough, for many purposes) that you might find helpful.
flyingpalm
Well-known
Thanks all
kuzano
Veteran
Even the first G690 did not dry fire....
Even the first G690 did not dry fire....
On the early interchangeable lens models, prior to the dual shutter release you could not dry fire the shutter. That included the G690 and G690bl. Also no dry fire but with two shutter buttons were the GL690 and GM670.
On those early cameras, the only way to dry fire was to rotate a dial on the back from Roll Film (R) to (S) for sheet film.
The GW and GSW series camera's did away with the Sheet film option, so opening the back was the only way to dry fire.
Get a manual, and pay particular attention to the part about keeping tension on the film when loading and closing the back. Otherwise you will suffer frame spacing problems and even bunching on the takeup roll, jamming the film. This is a classic issue with all 120-220 roll film cameras that use horizontal load and feed.
It's easy to adjust to this and enjoy the advantage of an excellent camera. I love my Fuji's, but I lost a couple of rolls on the first two until I took more care on loading film.
Even the first G690 did not dry fire....
On the early interchangeable lens models, prior to the dual shutter release you could not dry fire the shutter. That included the G690 and G690bl. Also no dry fire but with two shutter buttons were the GL690 and GM670.
On those early cameras, the only way to dry fire was to rotate a dial on the back from Roll Film (R) to (S) for sheet film.
The GW and GSW series camera's did away with the Sheet film option, so opening the back was the only way to dry fire.
Get a manual, and pay particular attention to the part about keeping tension on the film when loading and closing the back. Otherwise you will suffer frame spacing problems and even bunching on the takeup roll, jamming the film. This is a classic issue with all 120-220 roll film cameras that use horizontal load and feed.
It's easy to adjust to this and enjoy the advantage of an excellent camera. I love my Fuji's, but I lost a couple of rolls on the first two until I took more care on loading film.
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flyingpalm
Well-known
Thanks kuzano for the heads up......
oftheherd
Veteran
Fortunately with the Mamiya Unversal/Press 23 models, the shape of the holder forces tension on the film roll as it is closed. I have never had the problem you mentioned.
Bummer that something with the Fuji name on it would not have prevented such a thing happening.
kuzano
Veteran
There is another advantage to the Mamiya film back
There is another advantage to the Mamiya film back
I also use the Mamiya Universal Press. The reverse curve on the Mamiya backs is said to improve film flatness, plus the advantage you mention. My Press is out of action right now because the back is not advancing film properly. This is an occasional issue with the lever backs which makes me favor the knob wind ruby window backs.
Ideally, I would love to convert a Fuji to the Mamiya press back that uses the ruby windows. The advantages would be:
1)Easier load
2)Improved film flatness (although I don't consider that a problem in the Fuji cameras necessarily)
3)Absolute frame spacing.
4)If done right, the opportunity to shoot all 120 frame formats. (This could be done by using one of the multiformat Mamiya backs, or by making the camera have the removable back.)
The down side would be losing the ability to shoot 220, but 220 is getting harder to find.
So,... mayhaps there will be a Fujimiya UniPress in my future???
There is another advantage to the Mamiya film back
Fortunately with the Mamiya Unversal/Press 23 models, the shape of the holder forces tension on the film roll as it is closed. I have never had the problem you mentioned.
Bummer that something with the Fuji name on it would not have prevented such a thing happening.
I also use the Mamiya Universal Press. The reverse curve on the Mamiya backs is said to improve film flatness, plus the advantage you mention. My Press is out of action right now because the back is not advancing film properly. This is an occasional issue with the lever backs which makes me favor the knob wind ruby window backs.
Ideally, I would love to convert a Fuji to the Mamiya press back that uses the ruby windows. The advantages would be:
1)Easier load
2)Improved film flatness (although I don't consider that a problem in the Fuji cameras necessarily)
3)Absolute frame spacing.
4)If done right, the opportunity to shoot all 120 frame formats. (This could be done by using one of the multiformat Mamiya backs, or by making the camera have the removable back.)
The down side would be losing the ability to shoot 220, but 220 is getting harder to find.
So,... mayhaps there will be a Fujimiya UniPress in my future???
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