Getting 120 Started on the Reel

[BlindSquirrel]

I started developing my own 120 rolls and for the most part things are good. I have a Hewes reel and love it almost as much as its 35mm brother. The only sticking point, literally, is getting it started on the reel. There's a little bit of adhesive on the film where it was attached to the paper backing and it just seems to get stuck on everything - my hands, the changing bag, the paper backing itself.

Anyone encounter similar issues and have a solution? I usually have a pair of scissors in the changing bag to square off 35mm leaders, but with 120 I know I start shooting real film very close to that end and don't want to be slicing through one of my shots.

Also, there's a clip in the center of the 120 reel - does anyone use it? As far as I can tell, it holds the film so hard that it's almost impossible for me to load it when it's clipped; it always starts out ever so slightly askew and things go downhill from there. Fortunately, once started, w/o the clip, the rest of the roll goes on easily.

MCJ

 

[Larry Manuel]

Hewes reels are purported - by users - to be the best [ I'd love one ]. How about starting the non-taped end at the centre of the spool? Practice lots in daylight, we all have to learn that way. Then advance to daylight with eyes closed.

 

[Keith]

I've always found it pretty easy to get that little piece of tape off ... just lift the edge with a thumbnail!

I don't want it in the tank!

 

[katgut@earthlink.net]

I always cut off the paper with a scissors in the changing bag or loading is a pain (Paterson reels). I also don't like the idea of paper absorbing and retaining chemicals.

 

[PMCC]

Leave the paper. Load the film.

 

[David William White]

Yes, there is a knack, so practice is necessary.

You don't strictly have to pin the film in the clamp, but most folks agree it helps.

I don't start with the taped end. I start with the free end, unrolling and loading at the same time, so the tape is the last thing encountered, and I just tear it off to finish.

If clamping at the center and spiralling out doesn't work work for you, then try rounding the (non-taped) end with scissors and push the film onto the reel from the outside and spiralling in towards the center.

If THAT doesn't work, pick up a vinyl reel and see how you get on with it.

If reels in general don't get along with you, 120 is short enough to easily see-saw through a bowl of developer.

Good luck!

 

[skibeerr]

Leave the paper. Load the film.

I always start directly from the spool with 120 and when I reach the end just cut the glued part of with a scissor. With 220 I cut two times, beginning and end.

Wim

 

[roboboy]

I just loaded my first roll of 120 TX400, no practice went straight into it in my change bag, I got it first time. I see many guides online and such that tell you to remove all the paper from the film and then handle the film from there but i just unrolled until i found the beginning of the film and loaded straight off the spool, i found it much easier this way.

I'm using a patterson reel, it was very easy and the negs turned out perfect. My third ever roll of self developing and first roll out of my hasselblad. I tried my hardest to peel all the tape off the end but just ended up leaving it stuck.

 

[nikon_sam]

I peel the paper backing off until I get to the film then start loading the film from there...when I get to the end I pull the end of the roll from the paper and then peel the tape off...the tape gets put on the back of my left hand...I repeat this for any other rolls being loaded...once I'm done loading film and before I remove my hands from the changing bag I place the tape on the top of the developing tank lid...this also acts as a reminder of how many rolls are loaded in the tank...

 

[Roger Hicks]

I use Hewes for 35mm but Jobo plastic for 120. I just find it easier and besides I can get two films into a plastic reel.

Cheers,

R.

 

[ruby.monkey]

Just fold the tape over the end of the film as soon as you remove the backing paper? Works for me.

 

[johannielscom]

Just fold the tape over the end of the film as soon as you remove the backing paper? Works for me.

Same here. I start at the non-taped end and just have the paper backing hang off the film until I get to the tape. then I just tear of the paper and fold the tape over.

If there's any influence on the results, its minor. YMMV. I mostly use Rodinal 1:100 stand dev. with Ilford FP4, Fuji Arcos 100 and even Tmax 400.

 

[Pherdinand]

i never had problem with the paper"absorbing and retaining the chemicals".
OTOH, removing the paper from e.g. efke kb25 is horribly difficult. I can see the electrostatic discharge sparks in the dark if i try to do it.
I just never do it anymore. Fold it back and that's it.

 

[wintoid]

Just fold the tape over the end of the film as soon as you remove the backing paper? Works for me.

Same here and the extra rigidity from the tape helps me get it inserted into the clip

 

[sienarot]

I also fold the tape over the film and have been doing it for years ever since I ripped the film trying to get it off.

 

[BlindSquirrel]

Thanks for the responses. To summarize what I heard that I didn't already know or hadn't taken to heart before - (1) practice! (just because I can do the 35mm rolls in my sleep doesn't mean the 120's will be a breeze) and (2) I can try loading the film from the other end of the film roll (and I did, and it was easier for me).

And while practicing, I realized at last how to use that clip - I had been trying to insert the end of the film into the clip in the wrong direction, basically folding it over into the clip! Going in the right way, it finally makes sense.

MCJ

 

[Al Kaplan]

You'll be fine. Now take a deep breath and get started.