Dave Wilkinson
Veteran
Collapsible Fed 50mm f3.5 - Fomapan 200 in Rodinal
Dave
Dave
Give us a sample from your FSU lenses....
- Thread starter Maiku
- Start date
- Latest activity Latest activity:
- Replies 63
- Views 7K
xxloverxx
Shoot.
1963 Jupiter 8 wide open, quite soft (a bit softer than Krzys' copy)
paulfish4570
Veteran
A lot of times, it seems in my brief experience, the problems are old, dried-out grease, and stuff coming unscrewed a bit from where it should be, all fixable with instruction from people like Brian ...
MV72
Marc VERRIERE
Here are a few samples taken with Kiev4a, Fed 2-d, Canon P, Leica IIIa.
Lenses : Jup-12 ; Industar 26 M; Jup-8.
Jup-12
Helios 103
Industar 26m
Industar 26m
Jup-8
Jup-8
Jup-12
Lenses : Jup-12 ; Industar 26 M; Jup-8.
Jup-12
Helios 103
Industar 26m
Industar 26m
Jup-8
Jup-8
Jup-12
Dave Wilkinson
Veteran
I have no wish to be inflammatory, we all have different tastes and preferences - but looking through this and similar threads I am struck by the softness and general 'lack-lustre' appearance of images from the J8 - especially at wide aperture. I have a nice copy J8 (1959) that has produced some very satisfactory images - usually at f5.6/f8 or smaller, but right now I'm a bit disillusioned with it, after a long period of using some of my other lenses, and this is probably 'clouding my judgement' a little. 🙂
Dave.
Dave.
paulfish4570
Veteran
My J-8, one of the newer ones, looks pretty stinking sharp at 2.8, as you can see in the shot of my granddaughter playing on the floor in the striped shadows, but it could be the extra contrast my copy produces. That I-50 sure is a tiny thing with flair (the good kind), isn't it guys?
rbiemer
Unabashed Amateur
J-8@f/2, Zorki 3M, Kodak BW400CN film.
J-9 @ f/2, Bessa R, Fuji 400 color.
I've been very happy with my FSU lenses.
Rob
paulfish4570
Veteran
I've got to get a short tele so I can enoy shooting close-ups with my Bessa and soon-to-arrive FED-2 ...l
tbarker13
shooter of stuff
A few with my 1953 Jupiter 3 and M8.
je2a3
je
J-8
J-8
J-12
paulfish4570
Veteran
Lovely shots, je ...
rbiemer
Unabashed Amateur
Another from my J-9:
(from before I knew what a good scan was supposed to be like!)
And one from a J-12(that I sold since I took this.:bang:I'll be looking for another later this summer):
Rob
(from before I knew what a good scan was supposed to be like!)
And one from a J-12(that I sold since I took this.:bang:I'll be looking for another later this summer):
Rob
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
Krosya
Konicaze
Russian glass is very good, just needs some TLC
Russian glass is very good, just needs some TLC
Well, in my experience most FSU lenses need a bit of tweaking - lubrication, shimming or even more. Yet, once you do it and lens is adjusted they can deliver some good results:
Black J-8 from 80's at f2:
Chrome J-9 from 1958 at f2:
Both had to be re-shimmed.
and I-22:
All photos made with RD1S
Russian glass is very good, just needs some TLC
Well, in my experience most FSU lenses need a bit of tweaking - lubrication, shimming or even more. Yet, once you do it and lens is adjusted they can deliver some good results:
Black J-8 from 80's at f2:
Chrome J-9 from 1958 at f2:
Both had to be re-shimmed.
and I-22:
All photos made with RD1S
Maiku
Maiku
LTM 1955 J-8, wide-open at F2.
1953 KMZ J-3, wide-open at F1.5 on the M8.
Dave Wilkinson
Veteran
Agreed, but it does seem the better J8 shots come from digital rangefinders (RD1, M8 etc) - Yes, I know a good lens is a good lens, regardless of film or digital, but strangely I have a couple of lenses that I don't rate much for film - that perform quite well on my D40. Like I said - I'm not trying to be inflamatory.....just a few thoughts 🙂Well, in my experience most FSU lenses need a bit of tweaking - lubrication, shimming or even more. Yet, once you do it and lens is adjusted they can deliver some good results:
Black J-8 from 80's at f2:
Chrome J-9 from 1958 at f2:
Both had to be re-shimmed.
and I-22:
All photos made with RD1S
paulfish4570
Veteran
These J-9 shots are killing me with lens lust ...
The M8 tends to show up focus errors more quickly than the film cameras. "Pixel-Peeping", I could see the Sonnar focus shift between F1.5 and F4 readily. I changed the shim for the setpoint to be at F2 for the J-3 used here. F1.5 front-focusses ever so slightly, but within the DOF, and F4 is good.
Another at F1.5, on the M8.
And at F4.
Another at F1.5, on the M8.
And at F4.
Last edited: