It's really pretty rare for the battery check light to be active and not get anything at all from the over/under lights.
Try these tests...
First of all, set the selector ring to the B setting and hold the shutter release down. Does the shutter open and stay open?
If not, it could be a POD problem or a case of dirty electrical contacts
Now try this:
Move the selector ring to AUTO
Set the ASA to 1000 and the aperture to f1.7
With the film advanced and the shutter cocked, aim the camera at a light and push the shutter release down slowly while watching the lights, either on the top of the camera or through the viewfinder. As you get to the halfway point of button travel, more or less, the red light should come on.
It may be intermittant as you move the shutter button up and down, or may come on steady at some point in the travel. (Also, listen for a buzzing noise from the lens area. A pronounced buzzing is a sign of dirty contacts.)
If the light is intermittant, it is definitely a sign of dirty contacts
If it doesn't come on at all, could still be contacts or something much more serious
Next, set the aperture to f16, aim the camera at a dark area and move the shutter button up and down again. (Shutter cocked, as above) The yellow light should come on as you press the button partially down
If you get an intermittent light, again it would point to the contacts.
No light, same as above with the red light.
If you get steady lights, then the camera may in fact be working properly.
When I use the Electro, I set the aperture at f16, push the shutter button until the yellow light comes on, then open the aperture until it goes off. This gives the maximum depth of field possible.
Try this out and let us know what you get!
Russ 😎
