Grads on the DP1M: a bad idea?
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GaryLH
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Why?
Anyway hard to tell how much worst it would have been w/o it... Outside of a grad, your other choice is a HDR shot to get the sunlight thru the clouds and still be able to get the scene at street leveling in the right zone.
If it affects some of the resolution or detail... Does it matter so long as this is what your final picture in your mind says it should be? Btw I am not saying that resolution/detail was lost since I have nothing to compare against in terms of w/o the grad, it is just the way U asked the question.
Gary
Anyway hard to tell how much worst it would have been w/o it... Outside of a grad, your other choice is a HDR shot to get the sunlight thru the clouds and still be able to get the scene at street leveling in the right zone.
If it affects some of the resolution or detail... Does it matter so long as this is what your final picture in your mind says it should be? Btw I am not saying that resolution/detail was lost since I have nothing to compare against in terms of w/o the grad, it is just the way U asked the question.
Gary
noimmunity
scratch my niche
Hi, Gary,
It's the color cast that is the problem. Green in the upper right, red in the lower left.
Usually only happens on the DP Merrills when the shot is terribly underexposed, causing the Foveon sensor not to get enough light. But this shot doesn't seem so terribly underexposed to me. Of course it is a failed shot, and the exposure is off, but I was surprised by the results and wanted to share them here.
It's the color cast that is the problem. Green in the upper right, red in the lower left.
Usually only happens on the DP Merrills when the shot is terribly underexposed, causing the Foveon sensor not to get enough light. But this shot doesn't seem so terribly underexposed to me. Of course it is a failed shot, and the exposure is off, but I was surprised by the results and wanted to share them here.
GaryLH
Veteran
Oh... Did not notice it. What iso?
Gary
Gary
noimmunity
scratch my niche
Follow the link and there is complete EXIF: ISO 200 f/8 1/320 sec.
noimmunity
scratch my niche
Below is a shot that also used an ND Grad yet was well-exposed
Skies in Lyon by areality4all, on Flickr
Skies in Lyon by areality4all, on Flickr
GaryLH
Veteran
I c.. Bummer.. I was going to,play w/ graduated filter on this camera. Your only other choice outside of HDR is to create. Layer mask in ps so that u can bring the sky in and then merge the layers.
Gary
Gary
noimmunity
scratch my niche
I was using the M9 with a 24/3.8 at the same time. Results were consistently excellent, except for the troubles caused by lack of live view.
The XF3 Foveon sensor obviously requires much greater care in exposure than the M9.
The XF3 Foveon sensor obviously requires much greater care in exposure than the M9.
noimmunity
scratch my niche
You should definitely try it out.
I prefer trying to grab the shot with a filter if I can. The result is to my eyes almost always better than HDR. But HDR has its place, not to mention that it can be a lot of fun.
GaryLH
Veteran
When I bought my nik silver fx pro2, I decided to buy the complete suite which is now only 127 🙁... Anyway they have a HDR plugin.. It only needs a single file to create a HDR. I suspect it is doing a layer filter mask under the covers to get the sky and background to match.
Here is an example quick and dirty. Just took the default setting and did not play w/ anything in the HDR tool. There are a lot of different settings u can play w/. I just want to show that all is not lost even w/o graduated nd.
After the HDR wa complete ran both files thru my normal default settings in aperture.
Here is original.
Here is nik HDR manipulated.
This is just the default preset. There are over 20 presets. And controls for customization that will give u some really weird HDR affects. Normal ps HDR requires min. Of 3 shots taken at greater than one stop delta if I remember correctly. I don't really do HDR very often..
Gary
Here is an example quick and dirty. Just took the default setting and did not play w/ anything in the HDR tool. There are a lot of different settings u can play w/. I just want to show that all is not lost even w/o graduated nd.
After the HDR wa complete ran both files thru my normal default settings in aperture.
Here is original.
Here is nik HDR manipulated.
This is just the default preset. There are over 20 presets. And controls for customization that will give u some really weird HDR affects. Normal ps HDR requires min. Of 3 shots taken at greater than one stop delta if I remember correctly. I don't really do HDR very often..
Gary
noimmunity
scratch my niche
I have the whole Nik suite, and Photomatix Pro as well. Just started playing with HDR over the past few months.
This is from the ZM 18/4 on a Leica M8, composed from two images bracketed by 2 stops I think. It was handheld, so there was a small amount of ghosting that resulted in an image that is less sharp than a single frame.
The Griou by areality4all, on Flickr
This is from the ZM 18/4 on a Leica M8, composed from two images bracketed by 2 stops I think. It was handheld, so there was a small amount of ghosting that resulted in an image that is less sharp than a single frame.
The Griou by areality4all, on Flickr
GaryLH
Veteran
What type of graduate nd?
What type of graduate nd?
I was thinking more about your problem.. Could this be a result of internal refraction? Are u using a single layer or multi-layer sandwich style? Your other example looks like a straight head on shot.
Gary
What type of graduate nd?
I was thinking more about your problem.. Could this be a result of internal refraction? Are u using a single layer or multi-layer sandwich style? Your other example looks like a straight head on shot.
Gary
noimmunity
scratch my niche
I used a Lee RF75 system ND 0.9 (3-stops) for those shots. I think the presence of the sun within the frame probably exceeded a three stop difference, and that is what created the conditions for Italian flag a la Foveon.
noimmunity
scratch my niche
To just follow up, I am posting an image taken without a filter on the DP1M that exhibits a strong color cast.
Foveon color weirdness by areality4all, on Flickr
The clouds in the upper middle have a strong green cast, while there appears to be a slight red cast to the right of that.
Seems the Foveon sensor has problems with dark clouds sometimes.
(Probably can be corrected in post, right? Time for me to learn!)
Foveon color weirdness by areality4all, on Flickr
The clouds in the upper middle have a strong green cast, while there appears to be a slight red cast to the right of that.
Seems the Foveon sensor has problems with dark clouds sometimes.
(Probably can be corrected in post, right? Time for me to learn!)
