The ger districts of Ulaanbaatar.
My project is to record the "frontier" feeling of the ger districts of Ulaanbaatar, and to show how the old ways still hold sway in an increasingly modernising country.
The ger districts of Ulaanbaatar are the modern-day frontier towns of modern society. These districts are where modern society has not yet taken a solid foothold, though where it will, irreversibly. In this project I want to record this unstoppable process in the light of the slowly vanishing traditional ways. I want to show how the traditional ways find a new place in a modernising world, how they disappear, or how they become meaningless relics of the past.
Life is bubbling in the ger districts; people have their lives there, love and hate there, and have high hopes for themselves and their children. Catching this energy and hope on film are two other elements of this project.
Background
Mongolia is a vast country with an incredible and long history. Though many Mongolians nowadays live in the capital Ulaanbaatar, they still cling on to many old traditions and ways of doing. This may not be so evident for the average tourist visiting the capital, or even the country, but those who venture into the ger districts and spend time there will realise how little the old has yet given way to the new.
The ger districts of Ulaanbaatar are a mixture of city suburbs and countryside. Many people still live in the traditional nomad's tent, the ger, yet many have built wooden or brick houses. Roads are sometimes merely dust lanes; sidewalks are often non-existent; shops sell mostly only essentials like bread, eggs, meat, toilet paper, wood and vodka; sanitation is limited to outhouses and wells; electricity often fails.
Things are, however, changing fast. Not only radio but also TV and VCR can be found in most homes and gers; horses have been largely replaced by cars, minibuses and trucks; candles are now only used when the electricity fails; fashionable clothes are more common than the traditional deel; and hardly anyone now wears the traditional Mongolian boots, which have been relegated to the souvenir department of the State Department Store.
The populace of Mongolia is very young, vibrant and energetic. The country is poor but aware of its value. The image of Chinggis Khaan, the history attached to it, and the pride it instils in any Mongolian, are unconsciously the role models that drive this developing Mongolia. The energy is very visible in downtown Ulaanbaatar, where one building project follows the other, but it is best felt among the industrious, busy, and ever lively ger districts. These districts are the perfect place to find the real, modern Mongolian, in all his facets.
Involvement
All in all, this project, which started about four years ago with my first visit to Mongolia, and which has been pursued seriously since a year and a half, is an ongoing project. My involvement with Mongolian society, and the ger districts in particular, started as result of my Mongolian wife living in one such ger district. Travelling up and down by bus to the city centre has kindled my interest in the present and the future of the people living and working there and of the districts themselves.
Impact
As said, the old ways are disappearing in the ger districts. The government is rightly concentrating on improving the living conditions in the ger districts while the contemporary historians are more concerned with "real" history. In the meantime, an important part of the history of the common people is swiftly disappearing without being recorded.
It is impossible nowadays to think of the Great Depression without thinking of the defining photos of that era, photos of destitute farmers, day labourers, unemployment lines, and families on the move, by Dorothea Lange, Walker Evans, and other great photographers. These photos recorded and preserved an almost untold yet essential chapter in American history, a chapter about the common people. In my project I want to record and preserve a similarly untold yet essential chapter of contemporary Mongolian history.