handheld speed for MF 6*7

[pstevenin]

I just received a fuji GW670 III and I guess I could use it handheld.

In your opinion, what is the maximum usable speed handheld?

I usually able to shoot 1/8 or even 1/4 with the M6. I've loaded my first Tri-X 320 roll (220) and I hope to take some pics for the RFF book with it. I cannot afford the learning curve to cope with the deadlines. Please, I need some help!

 

[Doug]

Congratulations on your "new" monster-RF camera! I will say that you can hand-hold it at least the same shutter speeds you can hand-hold your M6 with 50mm lens. And perhaps better due to: more weight for stability, leaf shutter for more gentle operation, and less magnification for enlargments so the shake is less magnified too!

Being very careful, and with a wide-angle lens, I can hand-hold a Bronica RF645 or Fuji GA645 around 1/10 sec. I avoid using my Pentax 67 between 1 sec and 1/60 due to vigorous mirror and shutter movements, which at least your GW670 doesn't suffer!

Below sample of 1/6 sec with GA645Wi (NPZ800 film); some black areas cropped top and bottom. Secondly, a 100% crop from near the center of the 2798x2048 scan.

 

[pstevenin]

wow, sounds exiting !

I'll try it and let know. thks a lot for the info.


(Yes it is huge, but fits well in my hands and my shoulder sounds to afford it for an hour or two...)

 

[Toby]

I've got a pentax 6x7I can reliably hand hold to 1/125 (see attached)so the fuji shoul be okay for 1/60 or 1/30, but bear in mind you have to be much more careful than with 35mm to get the most out of the bigger negative

 

[pstevenin]

I've got a pentax 6x7I can reliably hand hold to 1/125 (see attached)so the fuji shoul be okay for 1/60 or 1/30, but bear in mind you have to be much more careful than with 35mm to get the most out of the bigger negative

I do not get exactly your point. I thought it was the contrary. If the negative is larger, the final enlargement for a specific print is smaller, am I right? And I suppose then it can afford some movement compared to a smaller neg, isn't it?

I thought that on the same conditions, MF will 'pardon' much more than 35. (at least handheld)

It sounds I am wrong. Could you explain?

Thanks for the info.

 

[oftheherd]

Everyone is different. However, in general, most people should be able to do at least as well with a leaf shutter MF as with a 35mm. At least until fatigue sets in, if that indeed becomes a factor. Only experience will tell you what you can do. Of course, experience will also allow you to do better and better as your technique and strength improve. Enjoy your new MF.

 

[Toby]

I do not get exactly your point. I thought it was the contrary. If the negative is larger, the final enlargement for a specific print is smaller, am I right? And I suppose then it can afford some movement compared to a smaller neg, isn't it?

I thought that on the same conditions, MF will 'pardon' much more than 35. (at least handheld)

It sounds I am wrong. Could you explain?

Thanks for the info.

I found that with MF you have to meticulous to really make the big step up in quality you get from the bigger negative. Yes it is more forgiving in the sense you may still get usable stuff but it only takes a little camera shake or poor exposure to quite significantly drop the resolution, and to my eye it is more noticable than 35mm simply because my expectations for the format are so high. Yes you can use shots with some error but when it is costing you 2 to 3 euros for each frame what's the point of only slightly better resolution than your M6 -the costs will not really justify themselves.

 

[Toby]

Oh, and bear in mind you get much less DOF because of the increased focal length of each lens - your 67 has a 90(?) which is equivalent to a 45mm but with much less DOF so unless you are careful your ratio of unsharp shots will go up at wide aperture.

 

[pstevenin]

Oh, and bear in mind you get much less DOF because of the increased focal length of each lens - your 67 has a 90(?) which is equivalent to a 45mm but with much less DOF so unless you are careful your ratio of unsharp shots will go up at wide aperture.

I've already noticed that with the Rolleiflex (especially with the rolleinars!).

Of course I'll use tripod when available. The idea was only to have a rule of thumb.

I'll do some shots as I normally do with the M and I'll compare.

I already fired the shutter 2 or 3 times and it is definetely louder, and hard to press (perhaps some training to get used is necessary)

Lack of DOF is also something I am looking for when using MF.

 

[gchpaco]

I have a GL690 that I picked up the other week, and have pin sharp images at maximum aperture at 1/30th of a second without much trying; while I curse that the camera weighs 5 lbs as I walk around with it, it's very handy when I'm shooting and there's no shutter vibration at all. I could see getting down to 1/15th or maybe pushing 1/8th with good technique.

 

[pstevenin]

I have a GL690 that I picked up the other week, and have pin sharp images at maximum aperture at 1/30th of a second without much trying; while I curse that the camera weighs 5 lbs as I walk around with it, it's very handy when I'm shooting and there's no shutter vibration at all. I could see getting down to 1/15th or maybe pushing 1/8th with good technique.

I will try that this evening hopin to have nice night shots from Paris downtown.

I have noticed also that the top shutter (more or les like the M one but bigger) is way much sensible than the front one (a bit harsh).

I'll let you know.