Hasselblad 503cxi

dave lackey

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Feb 20, 2007
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Ok, a loaner 503cxi with full CLA has been in my hands for a couple of hours. Shot a roll and decided to take the 80mm lens off to look at it. Now, apparently there is a certain way to attach the lens back on the body....:eek:

Any ideas would be helpful...:p
 
Oh... I put the lens back on but it did not lock. I removed the film back with the dark slide in place and tripped the shutter release. It is now locked on...

Hmmm.

Any explanations for a non-tech camera user?
 
No hassie user but I may assist with a quick research instead.

https://www.photo.net/discuss/threa...a-hasselblad-503cx-without-it-locking.436076/

Feom the thread, this seems useful:

"Yes, the lens and body must be cocked to mount or dismount a lens. If they are not cocked, the lens won't come loose. If one is cocked and the other is not you can't mount the lens to the body.
(...)
Just keep your fingers away from the shutter release button when changing lenses.
- Leigh
Feb 4, 2011"

Now I don't know but recall that Mamiya RB67 had something similar and there was a way to cock the lens separately too.

Don't know why but now I seem a bit more attracted towards a Rolleiflex than a Hasselblad. If I've done some procedure missteps on my Fuji 6x9, I wouldn't like to know how easily I would jam a Hassie.


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First question, Dave, if the lens is on the body is: can you wind on the body without undue force? If so, you should then be able to remove the lens with the body cocked.

The one thing you alway have to do with a Hassy is keep lens and body cocked to mate them or separate them. Using a coin you may cock an uncocked lens off the body separately if you need to.
Cheers,
Brett
 
Well, the body is easy enough. It seems I need to get the alignment on the lens set but do I need to trip the lens shutter, if so, how?

Sorry, this is the first time I have held a Hassy and I do not have a manual.
 
There is a shaft with a notch on the rear of the lens. Use a coin to turn the shaft and cock the lens. With the body wound on, the lens will mount.
 
I did the coin adjustment because the slot is not lined up with the cocked position on the body but it won't hold and it slips back.

Can I not trip the lens shutter?
 
I did the coin adjustment because the slot is not lined up with the cocked position on the body but it won't hold and it slips back.

Can I not trip the lens shutter?
Dave,
if the cocking shaft won't stay set in line with the red dot when you manually wind it using your coin, the issue is that the lens shutter is being tripped--it's not staying cocked. There is a small pin near the shaft. It is protected by a half circle guard around the pin. That pin will release the lens shutter. Is it stuck? Try gently depressing the pin with a fingernail a few times, before winding the shutter driveshaft with the coin again. The shaft must be rotated clockwise until the keyway is exactly lined up with the small red dot: that is the point at which it should cock and remain so. If it fails to remain cocked, apparently there is a problem with the lens that will require investigation and probably repair or adjustment.
Cheers,
Brett
 
Dave,
if the cocking shaft won't stay set in line with the red dot when you manually wind it using your coin, the issue is that the lens shutter is being tripped--it's not staying cocked. There is a small pin near the shaft. It is protected by a half circle guard around the pin. That pin will release the lens shutter. Is it stuck? Try gently depressing the pin with a fingernail a few times, before winding the shutter driveshaft with the coin again. The shaft must be rotated clockwise until the keyway is exactly lined up with the small red dot: that is the point at which it should cock and remain so. If it fails to remain cocked, apparently there is a problem with the lens that will require investigation and probably repair or adjustment.
Cheers,
Brett

Ah, yes, the little pin with half circle guard does not press down, not sure how much pressure to put on it. Or is it already down?
 
Ah, yes, the little pin with half circle guard does not press down, not sure how much pressure to put on it.
You can try sliding it sideways a bit. It's been a little while since I have fired and cocked a lens manually. Whether the pin is depressed or moved across I can't say (although if it will help I can get a couple of lenses out and check :) ). But go gently. If all is well a fingernail will fire the lens off. Just to clarify, you are, of course, looking for the leaf shutter to be open when it is cocked. Unlike a non-reflex lens shutter these shutters are open for viewing when they are cocked. What actually happens when they are fired, is that they will first close (so that the rear shutters can open and the mirror can lift), then they will open and close again to accomplish the actual exposure. ;)

Cheers
Brett
 
Dave,
Further to the previous post, I've done what I should have for you in the first place and had a quick look at one of my lenses (a C T* 150mm f/4 Sonnar incidentally). The aforementioned pin. Rather than depressing it towards the front of the lens, the shutter should release if the pin is pushed slightly sideways towards the guard. Ideally you should be able to wind the shaft clockwise until it aligns with the red dot, at which point the shaft should remain in that cocked position. It should then fire off at whatever speed the shutter ring is set to when the release pin is moved sideways. If it fails to do so the only easy fix I can suggest is to ensure that the pin itself is not stuck because of a bit of grit or foreign matter. If it's apparently free to move (and it will only move maybe 0.5 to 1mm) then, the shutter may have an internal problem related to the cocking ring and its latch up.
Cheers
Brett
 
One last point that is obvious in hindsight but should be overtly stated, for clarity, is that there are of course, two ends on the keyway. To fully cock a released lens shutter, you have to wind the shaft nearly 360 degrees in total. Say 340-odd degrees? Perhaps you've not been winding the driveshaft enough? Hassy lenses are usually pretty good, reliability wise. Just a thought. :)
Cheers
Brett
 
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