Help For a Noob Who Wants To Develop?

Spleenrippa

Yes, Right There
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Dec 4, 2008
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First post! Hi 😀

Started out with a Sony A350 earlier this year, and soon got bit by the film bug. I now have a small collection of vintage FSU and Japanese RFs. With the arrival of a lovely Bessa-R, I decided I wanna develop my own B&W film.

The actual process looks easy enough- lots of good tutorials out there. I'm so confused on what chemicals to use, though!

Was planning on buying a bulk roll of Arista Premium from Freestyle... Thing is, I don't know what developer/fixer/etc to order along with it. Development tables list so many chemicals, it hurts 😛

Any suggestions on a good chem setup? Should I maybe even go with a different film?

Thanks a bunch!!
 
First post! Hi 😀

Started out with a Sony A350 earlier this year, and soon got bit by the film bug. I now have a small collection of vintage FSU and Japanese RFs. With the arrival of a lovely Bessa-R, I decided I wanna develop my own B&W film.

The actual process looks easy enough- lots of good tutorials out there. I'm so confused on what chemicals to use, though!

Was planning on buying a bulk roll of Arista Premium from Freestyle... Thing is, I don't know what developer/fixer/etc to order along with it. Development tables list so many chemicals, it hurts 😛

Any suggestions on a good chem setup? Should I maybe even go with a different film?

Thanks a bunch!!

my advice is to start with what's readily available to you. i started with the old standby's: d-76 (developer), kodak indicator stop bath and kodak powder rapid fixer. you can also buy chemicals not in powder form which saves having to mix them but it's really not that hard. all you do is dilute with water them as directed. kodak hc-110 might also be a good place to start with developers. just pick something and go with it. freestyle is a good place to use. i also use kodak hypo clearing agent.

you'll need some hardware too: film reel(s) and tank, graduated cylinders for measuring, thermometer. these should all be easy to find on ebay for cheap. i use a regular church-key can/bottle opener to crack open film canisters. freestyle has all this, too. i think i'd buy a thermometer new, though. i recommend stainless steel tanks and reels but that's just me. take a roll of 36 exposure film and practice loading in daylight. it's tricky at first but after a while you could do it in your sleep.

good luck,
chris
 
I've recently been using either caffenol variants or D76 powder diluted, but I'd consider Microdol x. Freestyle has most offerings, including their own Arista brand.
 
I started off (again) using diafine, because within reason, time and temperature have no effect on the development process. Very forgiving developer.
 
I think this decision should be made on how many chemicals you want in your home...
It can be done with just three different items...Developer, Fix & Photo-Flo...
With Rodinal or HC-110 (one time use) you mix exactly what you're going to use straight from the bottle so no extra storage there...Fixer (powder or liquid) Mix enough to use...normally I mix up a one gallon bottle and reuse it until it expires...Photo-Flo, mix as needed per session then discard...

Start with any film...if you like what you see, then just get more...if not try something else...

Developing film and even printing isn't a big deal if you keep it simple...
 
Definitely keep it simple at first, as Chris says. That Arista Premium is good stuff (Tri-x, so we think) and should look great in D-76. Work with that combo for a year or two.

Hint: no matter what type of reel you get, practice with it many many times before you actually try to develop a roll. Go ahead and ruin a fresh roll of Arista to practice with (or find some expired film) if you have to. Getting your load technique down first will save you a lot of headache later. Practice first with your eyes open, then with them closed until you feel like you could do it, uh, with your eyes closed. Everything else is easy once you get that down.

Also, get in the habit now of monitoring and controlling temperature. I use a quick-read digital thermometer. Get a big plastic tub and fill it with water that's a little above your target temp, then put your bottles of chemistry in it so that they warm to a uniform temp before you start.

edit: I agree too with the suggestion about Diafine. It's a good developer and it removes some variables that can give you uneven results. With Diafine you spend less time goosing around with temperature control.
 
edit: I agree too with the suggestion about Diafine. It's a good developer and it removes some variables that can give you uneven results. With Diafine you spend less time goosing around with temperature control.[/QUOTE]

i use diafine as well but my opinion is that (1) it's an extra bottle of chemicals to keep around, (2) i find that it get's extra grainy and (3) you really can't push or pull the film depending on what you shot. i guess that makes it easier to use on one hand but can be frustrating if you want to add or subtract time depending on what you shot.

there truly are a ton of choices available. whatever developer you chose, i recommend sticking with it for 6 months or so. experiment with different times, dilutions, and films. try to really understand it before trying another developer.
 
Spleenrippa: Start out with as few complications as possible until you are reasonably comfortable with the process.

So, I would urge you *not* to bulk load your film yet. That's just an extra variable, and if something goes awry, it will make it harder for you to diagnose where the problem arose.

I also second the recommendation to start with basic chemicals. But I would recommend against using any powdered chemicals yet--again, another variable to avoid. Start with liquid chemicals--developer, stop, fix, and hypo clearing agent (fixer remover). Clayton and Sprint have decent lines of chemicals available in liquid form, as do Kodak and Ilford. Once you've hit a comfort zone, you can branch out to different offerings.
 
Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I'm going to read up more on this Diafine stuff. Eliminating variables right from the start definitely seems like the proper way to do it.
I'll let you know what I come up with!
 
Diafine is probably expensive and kind of a special product? Theres also critique concerning the negative aspects of the developer which you probably should check before the decision. I dont know much about it, never used this developer.

I would say just get D-76. It is very "classic" and popular developer. I guess I could say great too. I use Xtol which is very close to that (sometimes Rodinal too) and like it a lot. It can be used diluted much or strong to achieve different results, but I would suggest choosing 1+1 or 1+2 and using it for some time first to get used to whole developing thing.

Relatively fine grain, but still sharp images. Good shadow detail... Shouldnt be hard to find or expensive.
 
Keep it Simple!

Buy 36 exp. rolls of Arista Premium. Both flavors, the 100 & the 400.
Is there a photo store left on the Island? Otherwise, mailorder. Freestyle is certainly reliable.
D-76, dilute 1:1. Use the first gallon. If you hate the results, move on. I currently have D-76, Microdol-X, Rodinal, Microphen, D-19, Diafine and Xtol on hand. I learned on D-76. Used Rodinal a bit in a previous life. Nowadays, the Xtol and Rodinal see the most use. Different strokes for different folks. There aren't any bad devlopers. Maybe a few bad film+developer combinations, but those are rare.
Tap water stop
Kodak Rapid Fix. Lasts a long time.
Wash.
Photo-Flo.
Hang to dry.
Simple.

Good Luck!

Happy New Year!

Wayne
 
You wont need 5 developers, just stick to one. Same with film and maybe even camera (or meter). A common "mistake" for a beginner is to try all kinds of different films just "randomly". I did it too and wasted a long time that I could have used to understand B&W process. Instead I just tested different films without thinking much about the process.

First learn to use one film & dev combo and get your exposures good for your development (maybe change dev time if needed, but try to keep other variables constant). Trix with D-76 is an excellent and versatile combination if you are not allergic to some grain and maybe even like it (and "photojournalistic" look).

So first learn to expose correct and develop the negatives that are shot under different conditions. Find your own optimal dev time, if the given time wont work optimally. Maybe try pushing Trix/Arista when shooting in dark. Try developing negatives less when they are shot in hard light and maybe a bit more when shot in really soft light.

When you learn one combo and get the feel of it, it is a lot easier to get the process work with different film and/or developer if you want so after all.
 
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