HELP. What's wrong with White Balance in my RD-1?

You mentioned that your pictures were over-exposed. However, from the pictures you show us in this thread I rather think that they might be under-exposed, that is, too dark. Did you apply any post-processing at all to the images as they came out of the camera?

Also, I see that you chose to manually select the exposure. One of the images was exposed at 1/2000 of a second, which seems rather short for an indoors scene at 200 ISO.

What happens if you set WB to "auto" and the exposure to "AE"?
 
I don't know why I can trust on the built in photometer for shooting indoor but not for outdoor. I mean, the photometer works fine in low light conditions but when there is high light (day shoots) if I do what it says (the exposure) all the pictures are overexposed.

That's the main problem I'm having with the camera.
 
I received the raw outdoor file from you this morning, and replied to your email. What strikes me as odd is that the shutter-speed selected in auto was 1/30s. The shot is at least 2 stops overexposed. It could be that the inside shots are fine, because 1/30s is where they should be, and that there is a problem with the autoexposure not selecting faster shutter speeds in situations where it should.
 
sevres_babylone said:
I received the raw outdoor file from you this morning, and replied to your email. What strikes me as odd is that the shutter-speed selected in auto was 1/30s. The shot is at least 2 stops overexposed. It could be that the inside shots are fine, because 1/30s is where they should be, and that there is a problem with the autoexposure not selecting faster shutter speeds in situations where it should.
Click to expand...

Thanks Jack, I've just seen your e-mail. The worst is that even using the manual mode, I can't use the sunny 16 rule because always come overexposed, and I have to close almost to the maximum (f22) and setting the faster speeds (1/500 up to 1072000) getting most of the times overexposed shoots.

Then, I don't really know if it may be any other problem. In fact, it seems to be a problem with the White Balance too because always appear that blue tone in outdoor and lightly shoots, but not indoor and with low light.

The problem persist. Maybe I should send the camera for repairing? I've tryed here in Barcelona every shop and nothing, nobody knows where to send it. The most extrange is that I spole with the seller and told me the camera took great shots while it belonged to him. I don't know, maybe I should send it back and get my money back.

I'm very disspointed. 🙁
 
Expatinprogress said:
...the only way all the files are fine are RAW files and whether I open them through epson Raw software. When I open through it all the files appear good...
Click to expand...
Why don't you shoot raw then? Even in perfect health, your jpeg files will be noisy anyway. Jpegs may be good enough for black and white but they don't do justice to that fine camera in color. Remember that the jpeg machine of the R-D1 is 5+ years old now. Shooting raw will allow the use of modern raw converters like Capture One which give superb results with the Epsons. FWIW.
 
Sorry I can't be more helpful. As far as repairs go, I live in Canada and have used Steve Choi in California to repair my Epsons. I recall in the past some posters saying that they had got service done by Epson in Europe.
I'm still puzzled by the lines which look like some kind of screen, particularly in the top left. I don't know if you were shooting through a screen.
The fact that you continue to get exposure problems even with manual settings is worrisome. I wonder if there is a shutter problem, and even when you set 1/2000, it's not really firing at that speed, but at a slower speed. I'm really into total speculation now though.
For other readers, the information in Epson raw on the outdoor picture is showing ISO200, 1/30 and auto white balance, and 0/10 exposure balance -- none of which would explain either the severe overexposure (I might have stopped down a little because of the foreground roof) or the blue.
 
Does the EXIF state which "Film" and "Filter" settings are used? That Auto WB has been chosen does not help much really, does it state what temperature (in Kelvin) has been chosen exactly?
 
LCT said:
Why don't you shoot raw then? Even in perfect health, your jpeg files will be noisy anyway. Jpegs may be good enough for black and white but they don't do justice to that fine camera in color. Remember that the jpeg machine of the R-D1 is 5+ years old now. Shooting raw will allow the use of modern raw converters like Capture One which give superb results with the Epsons. FWIW.
Click to expand...

Ezzie, after testing in all conditions and formats, even the RAW files are totally innacceptable. All of them appear blue (like shot through a window, as Jack says) and overexposed.

I really started to think there is a problem with the shutter, but I can't understand why in low light conditions and indoor (without white tones) the pictures are so good. That's why I'm puzzled.

By the way, reading all the EXIF information, I realised that in all of them the Exposure Value is set at 0/10 (no matter if it has been shot in AP or in manual mode) and most of the times the Colour Space says Uncalibrated.

Any clue?
 
Expatinprogress said:
...the only way all the files are fine are RAW files and whether I open them through epson Raw software. When I open through it all the files appear good...
Click to expand...
Expatinprogress said:
Ezzie, after testing in all conditions and formats, even the RAW files are totally innacceptable. All of them appear blue...
Click to expand...
OK so you've thinked twice if i understand well 😉 Finally all your raw files have a blue cast right? If so, open any raw file with the Epson raw converter. You get a screen like that. Click on "Basic". What do you read under "White Balance", "As Shot"? If not, select "As Shot". Does your pic look blue any longer? If so, select "Fine Weather" if your pic has been shot outdoor. Or "Incandescent" if you've shot indoor. What do you see then?

yj5vn83
 
If your R-D1 hasn't got the v2 firmware (R-D1s firmware) already, I would be tempted to upgrade it. This may well be a SW glitch. But first, try to initialize settings (reset to factory settings more or less). You'll find the menu under the settings menu at 4-5 a'clock.
 
i think you should have your RD-1 initialized, and if you still have the same problem, have it sent for repair.
 
Ezzie said:
If your R-D1 hasn't got the v2 firmware (R-D1s firmware) already, I would be tempted to upgrade it. This may well be a SW glitch. But first, try to initialize settings (reset to factory settings more or less). You'll find the menu under the settings menu at 4-5 a'clock.
Click to expand...

How can I know which firmware has my camera installed? And, how I can get the latest (in spite I have the RD-1s and it should have the last version) version and install it?

I already reset the camera twice or three times and nothing.
 
LCT said:
OK so you've thinked twice if i understand well 😉 Finally all your raw files have a blue cast right? If so, open any raw file with the Epson raw converter. You get a screen like that. Click on "Basic". What do you read under "White Balance", "As Shot"? If not, select "As Shot". Does your pic look blue any longer? If so, select "Fine Weather" if your pic has been shot outdoor. Or "Incandescent" if you've shot indoor. What do you see then?

yj5vn83
Click to expand...


As you can see, even choosing this options, appears that blue tone.

Can you see the difference between my pictures (left side of the image) and yours? I mean, all of the outdoor shoots are blue and only one (indoor) in good condition.

Further the blue tone, this picture was took at 1/125 and eventhough people are moved, blurred. It's impossible to freeze them (as happens when you shoot at lower speed).

I think more and more that there is something wrong with the shutter.

****, I have firmware version 1.0 in the RD-1s??? Doesn't this model should have the Version 2.0?? I'm going to upgrade inmediately.

Maybe this is the problem?
 

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Expatinprogress said:
...Can you see the difference between my pictures (left side of the image) and yours?...
Click to expand...
Your pic is too small sorry. At first glance i would say that you have a white balance problem. This blue cast reminds me of mine above. Got it by error when i chose Fluorescent instead of Sunny WB setting. Easy to adjust in PP. http://tinyurl.com/y8tuhgl
 
Expatinprogress said:
Nope, that's not the problem. I have the Version 1.0 of the RD-1s which is the V 2.0 of the RD-1. Isn't it?
Click to expand...
Yes, you are right. I can't see that Epson have new firmware for the R-D1s. They do still have the v2.0 for the R-D1 available for download, but I've no idea if this would work on a R-D1s. (I wouldn't try it out).

Wrt the WB problem. You have tried forcing the WB to sunny when shooting outdoors have you not?

Wrt shutter speed. It is mechanical, but electronically controlled. This, the WB and the non-existing colour space (as stated in the EXIF data) make me think its a SW problem, not a mechanical problem. Since there's no firmware upgrade available (see above), I'd think you need to send your camera in for repair (or take it up with the previous owner - as from what you say, the camera was faulty from the day you got it).
 
Guys,

I have the final veredict coming from Epson Officla Service. After going around for a few weeks what drove me crazy , I send the camera to Epson Spain, who sent it to Epson France, who sent a budget to me one month later.

The fact was the shutter was damnified so the light entered more than exposure needed. That´s the reason all the outdoor pictures came overexposed and only indoor pictures with low light were acceptable. I suppose that blue cast which appeared in all the white areas was a simptom of the shutter problem.

Finally, the price (with transport and the whole service) arose to 270 Euros, which is acceptable. I expect to be receiving the camera in a month, so all the process will take 2 months.

Thanks to everybody for your help.
 
On the analog scale, make sure the WB is set to the upper most position. Mine happens to be off a "click". Run a test and expose the same pic on a tripod in all positions and cycle it through all of them from top to bottom.
 
Yes please do check that the analog meter on the uppermost gauge is on the upper most setting "A". Here is an example of raw convert to jpg no adjustments for web purposes and a straight jpg from the camera. You'll notice it is a bit yellowish on the straight jpg in camera.

Raw converted to JPEG no adjustment

11110918_aSZML
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In-camera JPEG

11110918_aSZML
[/url][/IMG]
 
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