Help with equipment and chemicals

[Maiku]

Hi,

It looks like I will move into an apartment with a perfect set-up for a darkroom. I need some help with filling out my darkroom equipment and chemicals.

I have a Meopta Opemus II and Opemus III enlarger. They are condenser enlargers. I have

a 55mm f4.5 enlarger lenses
a 75mm f4.5 enlarger lenses
red contrast filter
film negative carrier/inserts/holders for 35mm and 120 film
film negative carrier/inserts/holders to crop
film negative carrier glass
a couple of extra light bulbs
two easels (8X11 and 11X14). Tongs, trays.

What else do I need?

I think I need a focusing/focal magnifier. What do everyone else think?

I would like a timer, but is absolutely necessary?

I have done a little wet printing. I understand how to operate an enlarger. Exposure will be the problem. The instructor did a lot of exposure control for me, so I did little calculating exposure.

I also have to learn about different papers and chemicals. If anyone wants to give me advice I would appreciate on paper and chemicals.

Mike

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

You definately need a magnifier. Its near impossible to get critical sharpness in a print without one. Put a piece of scrap photo paper under it when focusing for maximum accuracy. The best are the very high magnification Peak Grain Focusers, but the Bestwell MagnaSight is also good and is cheap.

You also need a good thermometer. Paterson's are good and not terribly expensive ($25). You will need a timer for the enlarger. Enlargers do not have on-off switches for timing the exposure. The timer serves that purpose.

I'd stick to Ilford paper to start. It is consistent in quality and easy to find and easy to use. I used Ilford Universal Print Developer or Ilford Multigrade Developer. They're nearly identical. Liquid, easy to mix, inexpensive, great print quality. For stop, use Kodak or Ilford stop both. Doesn't matter which, they're basically the same thing. For fixer, Ilford Rapid Fixer or Ilford Hypam; they're nearly identical, work well, and are cheap.

 

[Glenn2]

You will probably need a set of filters if you are using multigrade paper. On enlargers with colour heads you can use combinations of yellow and magenta to get similar results, but finding the required settings can be difficult.

A larger tray with syphon for washing prints would be useful. Safe lights?

Glenn

 

[Ko.Fe.]

You could try without timer, I don't use any for processing prints. But it needs to be more accurate for actual exposure.

I'm not familiar with Meoptas, do they have contrast control? If not you'll need filters kit, if yours have drawer for them.

RC paper, doesn't need a lot of water, 8x10 is good size.
I use same Kodak fixer to fix as for film, same wetting agent. Stop Agent isn't critical.
I like PQ Universal from Ilford for developer.

Darkroom light.

 

[Dwig]

...The best are the very high magnification Peak Grain Focusers, but the Bestwell MagnaSight is also good and is cheap. ...

I never really liked the Bestwell MagnaSight for small format work. Its low power magnification of a frosted screen works well for low power enlargements of large negs but doesn't work as well with smaller formats. For 35mm and 120, I prefer the true grain focusers which focus by parallax. My favorite inexpensive focuser of this type was the Patterson.

 

[Solinar]

I would like a timer, but is absolutely necessary?

I have done a little wet printing. I understand how to operate an enlarger. Exposure will be the problem. The instructor did a lot of exposure control for me, so I did little calculating exposure.

Mike

Mike - I would want a timer to shut off the enlarger.

For exposure - do a variable timed test print - first exposed the paper for let's say 15 seconds, and then move a cover across the frame in 2 second increments, so that you get at least an additional 12 seconds of exposure toward the final portion of the paper. (See below @ the 5 minute mark)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=woXZb8gjG4o

or you can do the exposure test as shown below in 5 second intervals.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Gg7Y9QLkcA

Best Regards,

 

[Maiku]

Thanks for the responses.

A magnifier and a timer seem to be a must. Now, I have to find them.

I have red filter attached. I will check to see if I can remove it and find other colors.

I forgot to mention I have all thermometer from my BW developing kit.

Keep the info coming.

 

[Johnmcd]

I would also recommend a foot pedal for on and off of the timer / enlarger. This will free up your hands for dodging and burning. I don't have one as yet and it is a real hassle to flip the switch when I need to have my hands already in position. I am definitely on the look out for one to add to my system.

With regards to a stop bath. I have always just added a little vinegar to plain water and never had any issues. I thought this is what everyone did. Has this gone out of vogue?

Good luck with the new darkroom. I know how excited I was to get a dedicated darkroom up and running last year. It is my 'man cave' 🙂

 

[Johnmcd]

I would also look seriously at adding some powered ventilation. I have an 'exhaust' fan bringing in fresh air and another exhaust fan at the other end of the room taking it out. The atmosphere stays fresh and cool with no chemical smell. You will have to surround them with a light trap though. I used a design I found in a darkroom 'how-to' book that works well.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

I have red filter attached.

Isn't it regular safety filter?

You should have from bottom to the top:

Safety Red Filter, Lens, Bellows, Film compartment, drawer for contrast filter.

 

[mike rosenlof]

most filters for variable contrast paper go above the negative. You can do VC filtration with a colorhead. A paper safe is convenient, but you can use the paper's packaging.

Ansel Adams timed his enlarging exposures with a metronome. I use an electronic timer, but you can get a metronome at a music store pretty cheaply. I put a metronome in my darkroom a couple of weeks ago thinking I would give it a try.

You'll want a few opaque cards for some burning/dodging tools. Cards with a hole, opaque disk on a wire. That sort of thing.

For chemistry, I like to mix from liquid concentrate. The concentrate usually keeps pretty well, and I can mix smaller quantities. Ilford makes a multigrade developer that's fine. So is their Universal.

Ilford makes nice paper. The other lines carried by B&H or Freestyle are good too. Is there still a big Canadian photo retailer that you can deal with. Or someone near where you live?

 

[Nokton48]

It is not entirely necessary to buy darkroom accessories from a photo emporium. Many items can be acquired at a local dollar store. Square plastic tubs for tray processing, mixing cups, funnels, and whatever else you might need.

 

[leicapixie]

A sheet of plate glass or similar, edges beveled smooth to make contact sheets.
Leave negatives in the File page. "Print File".
I simply blocked the light with my hands when i burn or dodge..
A small cutter to cut paper for test prints.
Not the Guillotine type!
A good and tested safe-light.
Wear gloves as much as possible.
Using Ilford Chemicals to avoid noxious fumes, a Kodak specialty
I don't use vinegar for that reason..

 

[Dante_Stella]

The Gralab is still the standard for process timers; for the enlarger, you will want something switchable between 1 and 1/10 sec increments.

The red filter you got with your enlarger is a focus filter, not a contrast filter. If you look around, you can find an Ilford starter pack that comes with paper and VC filters.

Dante

 

[Maiku]

Thanks for the info. The more I know the better. The instructor I had in Japan had the gear, so I was not really paying attention to what I needed to get things up and running.

Again, thanks.

 

[mcfingon]

I would advise checking your enlarging lenses to see if they have fogged. I had a lovely Rodenstock Rodagon I bought for what I thought was a lot of money in the 1980's that has now fogged up. Shine a bright light though the lens from behind to see if it needs de-fogging. Some lenses have a filter slot which allows cleaning without dismantling. I gave up on my Rodenstock when I saw it needed cleaning and bought a Nikon EL-Nikkor 50 f2.8 which is really clean and contrasty.

 

[Maiku]

The enlarging lenses are clean and clear.

 

[Fotohuis]

I suppose you have Anaret lenses. Till 24x30cm it is not any problem. You need multi contrast filters. If you have a filter drawn in the Opemus IIA it is very easy: 8,9cmx8,9cm. You can have them new very cheap from Foma or a bit less cheap from Ilford and then in 1/2 steps 0-5.
A timer can not be any problem. In Holland you can get them for free, also the Opemus enlargers BTW.

 

[Sparrow]

... has someone mentioned running water and ventilation? and if you have children, some way to stop them opening the door at the wrong time ... a light-tight door is probably a luxury but when we last moved I got a UPVC door and had the window bricked up