Huss
Veteran
I have those three lenses, and would rate them in the order you show.
But if I had to pick one, it would be the ultron in a heart beat.
FYI I'm not sure if the GN will meter on the FM3A, as it is a non AI lens. I use it on an F.
He said... "So I've decided to treat myself and get myself a hi-end camera with a 40-45mm lens. I know hi-end means hi-budget, but I have the funds from recent sales and consider buying film cameras a good investment."
While not snob appeal...he didn`t say budget...
That seems like an awesome option to me...practical yet, beautiful.
JeffS7444
Well-known
Cosina / Voigtlander: Be on the lookout for slight haze in the optics as it seems to be more common than I thought. I disassembled my 28mm lens and discovered that the haze isn't simply grease sublimated on the glass, but appears to be something to do with the optical cement.
Pentax MZ-5 is appealing, but MZ-3 is the improved version offering 1/4000th sec shutter speed. However, I'm struggling with an MZ-3 repair as some of the plastics are quite thin and brittle (mirror motor pinion gear, flash hinge mechanism, etc) and I think it's going to be a challenge to keep a ZX/MZ-series camera fully operational long term. Minolta X700 is also mostly plastic, but Minolta seems to have had a better handle on how to implement the stuff in ways that don't self-destruct.
Pentax MZ-5 is appealing, but MZ-3 is the improved version offering 1/4000th sec shutter speed. However, I'm struggling with an MZ-3 repair as some of the plastics are quite thin and brittle (mirror motor pinion gear, flash hinge mechanism, etc) and I think it's going to be a challenge to keep a ZX/MZ-series camera fully operational long term. Minolta X700 is also mostly plastic, but Minolta seems to have had a better handle on how to implement the stuff in ways that don't self-destruct.
Bingley
Veteran
Yes, that’s a very nice camera, with a quiet shutter and advanced electronics for its day. And Rokkor glass is outstanding and very cheap. But athreshold question for the OP is whether he’s looking for a mechanical SLR or one with an electronic shutter like the MD-11.
tbhv55
Well-known
Likewise! I have nearly bought into Nikon film cameras on a number of occasions, but I've always managed to persuade myself to abandon the idea, on the basis that:
a) I have no Nikon lenses to use on them
b) I already have far too many cameras and lenses.
But I completely understand the appeal of both the F, and the F2. b) I already have far too many cameras and lenses.
aizan
Veteran
A $600-650 price point changes everything. Hitting that will be hard. The prices in that list are generally on the low side since condition ratings from Japan-based eBay sellers are so inflated.
On eBay, there’s an Ultron in Pentax K-mount for $500 + $30, and a Pentax LX in great condition for $650 + $30. $1210 is way over budget.
The Ultron SL IIS in Nikon mount is $450 new, and there’s a Nikon FM2 in mint condition for $350 + $30 (and add a rubber eyepiece for $20). That’s $850 total.
Switching to the Pentax 43mm is more expensive unless you go for a cheaper body. $550 Pentax 43mm with $150 + $25 Pentax ME = $725.
You have better chances getting items in mint condition if you look at more quirky stuff like the Konica or Minolta recommendations. There’s a black chrome (just like Leica) Minolta XD-S for $322 + $27 and a 45/2 Rokkor for $187, for a total of $536. And there are always items in user condition.
On eBay, there’s an Ultron in Pentax K-mount for $500 + $30, and a Pentax LX in great condition for $650 + $30. $1210 is way over budget.
The Ultron SL IIS in Nikon mount is $450 new, and there’s a Nikon FM2 in mint condition for $350 + $30 (and add a rubber eyepiece for $20). That’s $850 total.
Switching to the Pentax 43mm is more expensive unless you go for a cheaper body. $550 Pentax 43mm with $150 + $25 Pentax ME = $725.
You have better chances getting items in mint condition if you look at more quirky stuff like the Konica or Minolta recommendations. There’s a black chrome (just like Leica) Minolta XD-S for $322 + $27 and a 45/2 Rokkor for $187, for a total of $536. And there are always items in user condition.
Particular
a.k.a. CNNY, disassembler
When looking for an OM-4 be aware of the battery drainage issue on the earlier models. It is not the end of the world, but it dampens the fun a bit if you need to remember to take out the batteries, or switch it to 60 or B and always have spare batteries when you are not using it. The later models are ok, so find one that is known to have the upgraded circuit. If you look for the T/Ti (identical) model you will know it is good. The T/Ti model will be lighter as well. I think the 2-13 screen was only standard on the OM-3 Ti, but I'm not sure about that. It is a lot brighter, and a real pleasure in use.
Beemermark
Veteran
I've owned and used Olympus from about 1980. The OM-2 was the first camera to offer OTF flash, a major feat in the day. I was a Nikon (and Leica) user at the time and my company bought me an OM-2n outfit to photograph resin (using a microscope). Today I still have an OM-1n, OM-2n and a very well worn OM-4Ti I bought from this forum a number of years ago. First, most Olympus lenses are not that sharp compared to Canon, Nikon or Leica. This is when I was shooting Kodachrome 64 and projecting it on a large screen. However the ergonomics of the camera and lenses negate the small difference in sharpness. The raison d’etre of 35mm is small. If you want sharp get a 5x7 camera, or at least 120.
Most OM-1
meters do not work, or at least I've been unable to find one. Plus they take the dreaded mercury battery. I just use mine as a meter less body.OM-2
(and OM-1) I think is the perfect camera body. Size and ergonomics are perfect. Size is almost identical to a Leica M body. BTW someone stated that his OM-2 meter needle would stick. Most likely due to a small speck of dust, try compressed air.OM-3 same as the OM-1 with a spot meter and ridiculously expensive.
Original OM-4 was prone to battery drain issues new. People that had them would only put batteries in when shooting. OM-4T never had the issue. I shoot mine but find the spot meter too distracting to use and much prefer the OM-2 needle over the little blinking bar graph of the OM-4.
One thing about these cameras today, they're cheap, cheap, cheap.
skopar steve
Well-known
I'm a long time OM 4Ti user. The metering system gives you complete control over exposure. Also there is the F280 flash that syncs at all shutter speeds on the OM 4T. Excellent for fill flash.
Good luck on your final decision.
Good luck on your final decision.
p.giannakis
Pan Giannakis
I've owned and used Olympus from about 1980. The OM-2 was the first camera to offer OTF flash, a major feat in the day. I was a Nikon (and Leica) user at the time and my company bought me an OM-2n outfit to photograph resin (using a microscope). Today I still have an OM-1n, OM-2n and a very well worn OM-4Ti I bought from this forum a number of years ago. First, most Olympus lenses are not that sharp compared to Canon, Nikon or Leica. This is when I was shooting Kodachrome 64 and projecting it on a large screen. However the ergonomics of the camera and lenses negate the small difference in sharpness. The raison d’etre of 35mm is small. If you want sharp get a 5x7 camera, or at least 120.
Most OM-1
OM-2
OM-3 same as the OM-1 with a spot meter and ridiculously expensive.
Original OM-4 was prone to battery drain issues new. People that had them would only put batteries in when shooting. OM-4T never had the issue. I shoot mine but find the spot meter too distracting to use and much prefer the OM-2 needle over the little blinking bar graph of the OM-4.
One thing about these cameras today, they're cheap, cheap, cheap.
I agree with everything you wrote. I am a Nikon shooter, mostly using F5, F4 and F90x for the AF convenience. The Nikkor glass is sharper than the zuikos. Despite that, love using my OM1, OM2n and my OM4, they just feel beautiful in my hand and the single coated zuikos have a nice old-fashioned feel on b&w film.
Vince Lupo
Whatever
If you really want to go high-end, how about an Alpa 10d (black one if you please!) with a 40mm f/2.8 Macro-Kilar? If you’re willing to move up to a 50mm lens, then only a Kern Macro-Switar will do.
I mean if you’re gonna do it, might as well do it!
I mean if you’re gonna do it, might as well do it!
Particular
a.k.a. CNNY, disassembler
I certainly wouldn't pay those ebay prices for an OM-3 ti now, but since I have one already I'll happily use it. If I were buying now I would look for a regular OM-3.
The OM-4 is nice but I also find the meter interface a little to complex. If I hadn't used it for a while I found myself trying to remember how to read it. While the OM-3 really is the same, just the fact that it is only manual means it is just the right amount of simplicity vs sophistication for my taste. I do love having the spot meter when I want it.
Goody
Established
With any of these older bodies I would budget 2 bodies, so as to have a spare. I am partial to the OMs -- I had an OM1n bought new, back in the day, which was excellent for many, many years. The shutter started acting up and it was unrepairable - so I got an OM2 and and an OM2n as I couldn't find a good OM1. All excellent cameras. BTW if you get the OM1 you'll need an adapter for the battery, unless it's been converted. The OM3 looks like a great camera, but it's overpriced compared to the others, and I doubt you'll take a better picture! Just looked at KEH -- an OM2n graded EX for $118.
Hari
Well-known
Love my Nikon F2 get the later prisms
and the plain. Extensive lens line
and one the only motor drive with
detactable battery pack, unique
lenses from the pre-auto focus era!
and the plain. Extensive lens line
and one the only motor drive with
detactable battery pack, unique
lenses from the pre-auto focus era!
Ljós
Well-known
I think Beemermark has a point here .... a Nikon F6 with a 40mm VC sure would be a sweet rig.
I had a Om-1n with the 40mm f2 Zuiko at some point, and Nikon FM2 with the 40mm VC at another (and Leica M2 with M-Rokkor 40mm f2) .... been down that path ;-)
Looking back, the setup I miss most (why, oh why did I sell?!?) was Leica M2 with a nice Summaron 35 2.8.
Beemermark
Veteran
I had a 9d with the Kern Macro-Switar, beautiful lens but more wacky to use than my Exacta XV. Just couldn't bond with it.
JeffS7444
Well-known
No worries, this thread has been entertaining.
Whether it's reasonable or not to pay a $1000+ premium for a Nikon F2 Titan versus a regular F2 really depends on one's priorities doesn't it!