BTW, between the Olympus OM-4 or OM-4Ti, on the one hand, and the Nikon FM3a, I prefer the OM because it has a much larger and better viewfinder
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The OM-4Ti, with either the Motor Drive 1 or 2, is much faster (5 fps) and quieter than the FM3a with MD-12 motor drive (3 fps).
Have you compared the OM-4 viewfinder side by side with an FM3a?
Some time ago I compared several viewfinders of SLRs, including Nikons, Contaxes, Pentaxes, Olympus OM1, and others, by orienting the cameras so that my left eye was looking through one camera and my right eye another camera, with the same focal length lens attached to each.
In this way I could directly compare magnification, brightness, contrast, and ease of focus (i.e., how easily the view would 'snap' into and out of focus.)
After that comparison, my favorite viewfinder overall was the FE2. The differences between all of them were actually quite minor, certainly not enough to make any difference in field usage. I preferred the Nikon focusing screen as the 'lines' between the split image, microprism, and matte areas are virtually invisible. Other focusing screens had a noticeable 'line of demarcation' so to speak; nothing that would get in the way of shooting in any way, just a personal preference.
These days I would never use a motor drive on an SLR, unless it is built-in, and in that case it would always be set to single exposure.
mike rosenlof
Insufficient information
Yes, look what Sebastião Salgado used. And no, I won't mention the R6 anymore since I seem to be the only one who loves that camera (and R lenses).![]()
no, you're not the only one. only no 40mm available. but 35 is!
For decades, I was not convinced that there is magic in Leica lenses, just hype. But after a few years with the R6.2 and some awfully nice lenses, maybe there is. maybe. 60mm macro, 50mm Summicron 35-70 f/4 whatever it's called...
Archiver
Veteran
@Huss - the Pentax ME and MX cameras are some of the prettiest SLR's ever made. Your Hermes edition (it must have cost you squillions!) is no exception.
I just wish the leather cases for my Pentax ME and Minolta SR-T Super hadn't crumbled and cracked. Has anyone seen custom leatherworkers make replacement cases for cameras?
I just wish the leather cases for my Pentax ME and Minolta SR-T Super hadn't crumbled and cracked. Has anyone seen custom leatherworkers make replacement cases for cameras?
Huss
Veteran
So you want to be the ultimate ultra mod camera hipster...
Forget the fancy brands, everyone and the mutt has them. Get a Nikkormat FT2, ideally a black model (very few were made, but they exist) in the best condition you can find OR buy a good one and have it restored. The Ultron f/2 is the ideal lens for this kit, surpassed only by the then new Nikkor 50mm f/2, the more rounded later version.
Add an original Nikkor Y2 yellow filter and lens hood, and boom! as they say in these parts of the Antipodes, Bob's your uncle.
Of course you'll shoot only Tri-X at ISO 250 and soup it in D76 1:1 for those luminous swirls.
I have four FT2s, so I know. In this digital age they don't see all that much use nowadays, but when I do take them out for an airing on the street, the beauteous bimbs fall over themselves in front of you (I wish), which at my advanced age is nothing short of miraculous.
So yes, with this kit, not only with your image be divine, you'll also get lovely images out of everything you shoot. What could be better??
Not remotely high end classic gear when you take into account everything that came before it, and everything that came after it. But it's what you use, so it must be the right choice.
Oh yeah, here's mine.

I like it, but would pick a Pentax MX (black of course), or a Nikon F/F2/F3/F4/FM2/FM3 or or over it. It's solid kit. But it ain't the stuff of dreams - especially with that meter that has poor sensitivity compared to other cameras out there.
superultramega
Established
OP’s interests seem to be quite varied between rare lenses and common camera/lens combinations. I’d suggest something that feels good in the hand and that you want to wander about with, print quality will not be that distinguishable.
dtcls100
Well-known
Have you compared the OM-4 viewfinder side by side with an FM3a?
Yes. My OM-4 has the 2-13 screen, which is pretty incredible. Also, the FM3a only shows about 92% of the actual picture area. OMs show 97%. The analog LCD display of the OM-4 is also better IMHO than the needle display of the FM3a (which in turn I prefer over the FM2 LED display).
I typically use motor drives in single shot mode, but occasionally will use it in sequence bursts to capture fast action. The OM motor drives (not the winders, which are as loud as hell) are smoother and quieter than the Nikon MD-12. I also like the pistol type battery grip that can be used with the OMs (as opposed to standard flat screw in battery pack).
Have you compared the OM-4 viewfinder side by side with an FM3a?
Yes. My OM-4 has the 2-13 screen, which is pretty incredible. Also, the FM3a only shows about 92% of the actual picture area. OMs show 97%. The analog LCD display of the OM-4 is also better IMHO than the needle display of the FM3a (which in turn I prefer over the FM2 LED display).
What about brightness? Since the 4 has a semi-silvered mirror with some of the light passing through to the meter cell.
Just curious; the bottom line here is that these cameras were the pinnacle of manual focus SLR design. Any differences are minor quibbles.
If only modern DSLRs had focusing screens as good, or at least options to use the same screens for manual focusing...instead of having to be distracted away from framing, by looking at a green focus dot in the lower left of the viewfinder
Forget the fancy brands, everyone and the mutt has them. Get a Nikkormat FT2, ideally a black model (very few were made, but they exist) in the best condition you can find OR buy a good one and have it restored. The Ultron f/2 is the ideal lens for this kit, surpassed only by the then new Nikkor 50mm f/2, the more rounded later version.
Add an original Nikkor Y2 yellow filter and lens hood, and boom! as they say in these parts of the Antipodes, Bob's your uncle.
Perhaps today's 'best buys' are the late AF (pre-digital) SLRs. Definitely not trendy/hipster, but certainly talented, accomplished, and feature-laden...
For example, the plastic-clad Nikon N80/F80. This body was the basis of a few digital models.
1/4000, matrix metering, built-in flash, built-in grip, lighter than a manual focus Nikon FM even though it has a motor.
Current market for a nice copy: about forty bucks. These are sturdy and reliable, but if it does break, you're out only a couple of rolls of film and development...
Add a 50/1.8 AF lens, about another $50, a bit more if you don't look too hard.
That's a lot of camera for the money, one can buy some really nice AF glass for the difference in price between an N80 and an FM3a.
Again with the budget options... he does not want budget options! He wants sexy! 
He's decided on the OM4Ti, the rest of these posts are just additional thoughts. 
He's decided on the OM4Ti, the rest of these posts are just additional thoughts.![]()
Understood...
aizan
Veteran
How many 40mm Ultrons were made in Olympus OM-mount? An OM-4Ti combo would be *chef kiss*
Huss
Veteran
Yeah top end kit is the top end kit that each mfg made at the time.
So for Nikon - FM3A, F3Hp Ltd, F6 etc. Olympus - Om4ti. Pentax - LX. Leica - R9 etc
Suggesting a Nikkormat, or Om10 or MV1 or AE1Program just cuz you use it and get nice shots does not make it top end!
And of course top end kit does not mean top end photos. That's another beat to death discussion.
So for Nikon - FM3A, F3Hp Ltd, F6 etc. Olympus - Om4ti. Pentax - LX. Leica - R9 etc
Suggesting a Nikkormat, or Om10 or MV1 or AE1Program just cuz you use it and get nice shots does not make it top end!
And of course top end kit does not mean top end photos. That's another beat to death discussion.
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