Hi there...

OlyMan

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I've not found a specific "Introduce Yourself" forum so I thought I'd post here...

I'm totally new to this site and RF cameras in general, though I've been using my trusty Olympus SLRs for years.

I don't have a lot of dosh and my RF cameras are lowly models compared to the famous cameras such the the Bessa and Leica M-series. I've just bought two RF cameras - an Olympus 35RC and 35SP - to complement my original Olympus Trip 35 viewfinder camera (it's amazing how many people who call that an RF camera!) and my Olympus OM4Ti with various Zuiko, Tamron and Tokina lenses for telephoto and close-up work.

Has anyone any experience of using the RC and SP models? E.g.: how good is the F/2.8 lens on the RC? How accurate (=reliable) is the program mode on the SP?

I'm using zinc/air 1.4V hearing-aid batteries which I intend to replace every three months to keep the metering accurate.

Any hints and tips greatly appreciated :)
 
First of all, welcome! RFF is a great place, hope you enjoy it here!

Second - the Oly rangefinders are terrific in general. I have the RC, had an SP, and have an RD. I like them all. The RC trades off smaller size for fewer shutter speed choices and a lens that is a tad bit lower down on the Oly totem pole, but I'm happy with mine!

You may already know - the word is that the letter in front of 'Zuiko' on the lens face refers to how many elements it has. Therefore, all things being equal, a "G.Zuiko" is superior to an "F.Zuiko" which aces a "D.Zuiko" and so on. However, in real terms - the RC is a fine camera too.

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks
 
Thanks Bill. Yeah I was aware of the letters-thing with Zuiko lenses. Mind you, I've always had problems figuring out how more elements = better photos: more elements may give you less vignetting and better edge-definition, but surely as light passes through more layers of glass (and air) the more distorted it gets? Therefore the best lens in the world would have just one element which gave distortion-free images (probably not physically possible to make!)
 
greetings and welcome to the forum!
oly makes great lenses.
i started life with a 35 rc, which i still have, and it can do some wonderful things with light.
small, quiet and a great lens- who could ask for more?

joe
 
OlyMan said:
Thanks Bill. Yeah I was aware of the letters-thing with Zuiko lenses. Mind you, I've always had problems figuring out how more elements = better photos: more elements may give you less vignetting and better edge-definition, but surely as light passes through more layers of glass (and air) the more distorted it gets? Therefore the best lens in the world would have just one element which gave distortion-free images (probably not physically possible to make!)

For prime lenses, it's usually true that more elements = a better lense but you should only be comparing lenses from the same manufacturer.

The extra elements are usually added to correct some problem, but are usually only needed when it's a fast (< f2.0) or wide lense. Many good 50'ish mm lenses are in the 4 to 6 element range, giving the best combination of speed, sharpness and contrast.
 
Welcome, OlyMan! You picked a couple of great little cameras to start your RF journey. I bought my 35RC used in 1972, and I recently had it cleaned, lubed, and adjusted ("CLA") with new foam light seals. It's a handy little camera with a fine lens. For me, it replaced an Olympus Pen D2, and in turn its functions were taken over in 1982 by the slightly larger Minolta CLE, still a favorite.

You may want to keep one hand on your wallet around RFF, as the discussions often result in enthusiastic buying sprees... One time it'll be older leaf-shutter RFs like the Canonet, another time the rage will be FEDs, Zorkis and Kievs from the Former Soviet Union, then Canon interchangeable lens RFs like the P and 7s, and we recently have had a rush of Leica purchases! So watch out for attacks of GAS (Gear Aquisition Syndrome) that can do-in your budget.
 
Thanks for all your kind comments and welcomes :)

I'll be sure to post some pictures when I get the first rolls of films developed through the cameras. I've got Konika slide-film in the SP (never tried their slide-film before...) and Kodak print-film in the RC, both 100-ISO
 
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