Timmyjoe
Veteran
Would anyone be interested in posting a pic from their Leica (original) Monochrom, that was shot above ISO 6400 (like ISO 8000 or ISO 10,000)? I keep hearing that the noise in the images looks like film grain, but from the images I have seen on the web (on sites like Steve Huff's), I think the noise looks like noise.
I figured if anyone has come up with a way to make the noise look like film grain, it would be one of you folks.
Thanks.
Best,
-Tim
I figured if anyone has come up with a way to make the noise look like film grain, it would be one of you folks.
Thanks.
Best,
-Tim
airfrogusmc
Veteran
Hey Tim this is a test shot I did some time back. 10,000 ISO original MM

Timmyjoe
Veteran
Thank you. That's helpful. The noise/grain looks better than the stuff I've seen so far.
airfrogusmc
Veteran
Thank you. That's helpful. The noise/grain looks better than the stuff I've seen so far.
Check out this..
http://blog.mingthein.com/2012/05/27/leica-m-monochrom-vs-d800e/
f16sunshine
Moderator
Thanks for the link.
From the final comparison, all I could think was the Apo summicron is a massive waste of cash.
Hard to be un-biased about any other comparison conclusions ....
Jager
Established
iso 6,400...
iso 8,000...
iso 10,000...

iso 8,000...

iso 10,000...


Timmyjoe
Veteran
Sweeeeett Jeff! Thank you. Really nice work.
Were those taken with "regular" Leica glass like my 50 Summicron, or the exotics like Noctilux and 50 cron APO?
Were those taken with "regular" Leica glass like my 50 Summicron, or the exotics like Noctilux and 50 cron APO?
Timmyjoe
Veteran
Thank you. Informative article.
rodt16s
Well-known
Jager
Established
Timmy, the first was taken with an f1 Noctilux. Second with a 35 Summilux ASPH (ver 1, non-FLE). Third and fourth with a 50 Summicron APO.
The Noctilux gives an extra stop (over a Lux), of course, along with its unique signature. But beyond that it doesn't affect grain or noise in an image. And the 50 Cron APO, while a superlative lens, doesn't improve the last two images over what you would have seen had I mounted my non-APO 50 Cron, imho.
I think all Leica lenses are pretty exotic!
The Noctilux gives an extra stop (over a Lux), of course, along with its unique signature. But beyond that it doesn't affect grain or noise in an image. And the 50 Cron APO, while a superlative lens, doesn't improve the last two images over what you would have seen had I mounted my non-APO 50 Cron, imho.
I think all Leica lenses are pretty exotic!
airfrogusmc
Veteran
3200 ISO
ISO 6400
Enlarged section from above 6400

ISO 6400

Enlarged section from above 6400

Timmyjoe
Veteran
Very nice.
If I might ask, what is your post processing workflow? Are you using Silver Effects Pro, Lightroom, Aperture, Photoshop, . . . ?
If I might ask, what is your post processing workflow? Are you using Silver Effects Pro, Lightroom, Aperture, Photoshop, . . . ?
airfrogusmc
Veteran
CS6. To me it is more like the way I would work in a darkroom. Never warmed up to LR or SE. Both SE and LR came with the MM. Just never liked working in either. Just personal preference and I get exactly what I am looking for from each image.
I start with converting from DNG to tiff. I usually adjust contrast, (MM files are usually a little flat and dark. So much stuff in those shadows.) density and other basic adjustments in raw converter before I save as a tiff. I always save the tiffs in a separate folder from the DNGs. I always keep the raw/dng files the way I would negatives.
I then fine tune everything in CS6. I sometimes use quick mask to bring up or bring down specific areas. Fine tune contrast and density in CS6. On the images I really like I will then make a print and make final adjustments after judging the print.
I hope this helped.
I start with converting from DNG to tiff. I usually adjust contrast, (MM files are usually a little flat and dark. So much stuff in those shadows.) density and other basic adjustments in raw converter before I save as a tiff. I always save the tiffs in a separate folder from the DNGs. I always keep the raw/dng files the way I would negatives.
I then fine tune everything in CS6. I sometimes use quick mask to bring up or bring down specific areas. Fine tune contrast and density in CS6. On the images I really like I will then make a print and make final adjustments after judging the print.
I hope this helped.
Timmyjoe
Veteran
Very helpful. Thank you.
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