dazedgonebye
Veteran
I just got back my first roll of shots taken "from the hip." Actually, they were taken from the side, the front and the back...anyway I could point the camera without being obvious.
It seems I need to improve my technique. I was suprised to find a great number of the shots suffered from motion blur. Most were taken at 1/125th, and I would have thought that would be enough speed to save me, but apparently not.
I think my problem is that I was still moving the camera in to position when I tripped the shutter, instead of settling it in first.
Has anyone else experienced this sort of problem?
It seems I need to improve my technique. I was suprised to find a great number of the shots suffered from motion blur. Most were taken at 1/125th, and I would have thought that would be enough speed to save me, but apparently not.
I think my problem is that I was still moving the camera in to position when I tripped the shutter, instead of settling it in first.
Has anyone else experienced this sort of problem?
rool
Well-known
Sunny day, 400asa, f/11, 1/500th, scale focusing... And you're all set.
1/125th isn't that fast of a shutter speed.
1/125th isn't that fast of a shutter speed.
dazedgonebye
Veteran
Unfortunately, in the shadows of the buildings, I wasn't able to manage anything faster.
nico
Well-known
dazedgonebye said:
Hi Steve,
I got the same problem shooting from the side... I think I need to use faster shutter speed if possible and a more steady handling of the camera.
N.
rogue_designer
Reciprocity Failure
what focal length were you using?
A wider angle will help minimize some of the apparent motion. And also let you open up the lens a bit more without losing too much DOF coverage.
A wider angle will help minimize some of the apparent motion. And also let you open up the lens a bit more without losing too much DOF coverage.
dazedgonebye
Veteran
40mm lens on a fixed fl rangefinder.
Looking at the charts, it's amazing how much better the dof is with a 35mm lens.
I have an XA on the way to try next.
I guess I'll have to practice getting the camera in to position and at a complete stop before firing.
Looking at the charts, it's amazing how much better the dof is with a 35mm lens.
I have an XA on the way to try next.
I guess I'll have to practice getting the camera in to position and at a complete stop before firing.
M4streetshooter
Tourist Thru Life
dazedgonebye said:
That's a great avitar man.....beautiful
dazedgonebye
Veteran
M4streetshooter said:
Thanks! My wife and one of my boys. I26 on a Fed2.
It's got that old lens look.
jky
Well-known
Steve,
I've learned to pan the camera when shooting something beside me while on the go - just like panning except I too am moving. This is done mostly when there's not enough time to raise the camera to my eye. This gave acceptable sharpness...
Regarding the focal length, it may be best to just get used to one for the time being. After using only a 35 for many, many months, I have a good idea on how to frame the subject when the camera's at chest level. Plus, the 35mm has some sort of rule I believe, something like - subject to camera distance = long side of the frame.
Sorry, I'm confused just re-reading that....
I've learned to pan the camera when shooting something beside me while on the go - just like panning except I too am moving. This is done mostly when there's not enough time to raise the camera to my eye. This gave acceptable sharpness...
Regarding the focal length, it may be best to just get used to one for the time being. After using only a 35 for many, many months, I have a good idea on how to frame the subject when the camera's at chest level. Plus, the 35mm has some sort of rule I believe, something like - subject to camera distance = long side of the frame.
Sorry, I'm confused just re-reading that....
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
My standard hip-shooting technique uses my Leica M7 with 28mm lens. I rate my film around EI 800 to 1600. The camera is fitted with an M-grip. I dangle the camera by the grip, held vertically near hip level. Most of my exposures are at about f/3.5 or so, under bright fluorescent lighting. With the camera pressed against my body, I can manage sharp pictures at exposures around 1/60--although I usually don't know the exact shutter speed, since I use aperture priority.
Estimating distance accurately counts as much as camera steadiness--but the latter is of course important.
Practice, practice, practice.
Estimating distance accurately counts as much as camera steadiness--but the latter is of course important.
Practice, practice, practice.
bunkawen14
A Glimpse of the World
The best technique is to abandon hip shooting altogether.
Pre-focus the camera and put it to your eye for a final very quick composition. It's like wading into the swimming pool on a chilly morning. Once you've done it, it's not so bad.
The second best shot is from chest level. Swivel your body to compose, plant your feet, pull the trigger.
Pre-focus the camera and put it to your eye for a final very quick composition. It's like wading into the swimming pool on a chilly morning. Once you've done it, it's not so bad.
The second best shot is from chest level. Swivel your body to compose, plant your feet, pull the trigger.
popstar
Well-known
Hey Steve - I've had motion blur on hip shots before too. Many times it's because I wasn't using a really good focal length for the shots. As others have stated, a wide-angle really does make a lot of difference. Sometimes the blurred photos can be interesting but not always. Just another opportunity for learning...