hmm... a rehash?

[emraphoto]

ok... i'm not normally one of the "help me decide" crew but i am in need of input and yes 'opinions". i have been pushing my "i shoot on film" mantra to the end of it's worth. i seem to have picked up a steady flow of paying work (mainly weddings and freelance magazine/web stuff) and as i am sure all you know scanning film is a serious endeavour. i am a dedicated leica M user and intend on remaining so... however i am now forced, through economics, to move to a digital workflow for paying work. i cannot afford a magenta 8 at his moment and time so i am tossing about the idea of (2x) rd-1s or rd-1. i currently posses a stable of leica m and voigtlander glass. i have carved out a bit of a niche in "available light/documentary wedding" and understand the rd-1 has excellant high iso performance.

(quick note to all the "buy a real d-slr {canon whatever crowd}"... i have shot on all of them and CHOOSE to shoot on rangefinders. i will not be swayed into buying an canon 1ds so i can "look" like a "real" photographer. sorry all, bad p-net experiences...)

do any of you work with an rd-1? any experiences with it (working) over a period of time? any serious shortcomings i need to be concerned about (beyond the obvious "where to repair issue") i am fairly confident that it will produce a suitable file size for my needs. i am also shooting some contract architectural stuff and was hoping the vc 15mm on an rd-1 would do the job. any larger scale printing (and it's very little) i was hoping i'd employ the use of say "genuine fractals" to help me out. for weddings it would be two rd-1's and the m6ttl.

i am aware these questions can be tedious, but i do appreciate any opinions/advice you all might have... lay 'em on me

cheers
john

 

[saxshooter]

I'd try to get a good deal on a single RD-1 first, don't jump in with both feet right away. If after a job or two you like it, then go for the second body. Or play with an M8 to see how its different. The QC and post warranty service for the Epson IS worrying, I am on my second body after 13,000 exposures killed my first in less than a year.

I use Fred Miranda's Stair Interpolation (actually, the simpler first version) to upsize images.

You may need to shoot Raw to correct for vignetting if you plan to use the 15mm for architectural work. So you'll need 2gb cards (don't think over that works) and a few batteries.

Wanted to also add that if you are used to shooting Leica M bodies, you will find the shorter basefinder length of the Epson frustrating. The rangefinder patch in the VF is smaller too. Not as bright also. I use a 1.25 Megaperls magnifier which helps with focusing a fast 50.

High ISO in black and white is good with the new firmware. Good luck.

 

[emraphoto]

thanx buddy...
i'll take a peek over at FM
it really is the QC that worries me... damn if the camera doesn't fit the bill real well though!
the other thing is even if warranty is not a problem where do you send them for repair OUTSIDE of warranty and/or epson?!?!

 

[saxshooter]

the other thing is even if warranty is not a problem where do you send them for repair OUTSIDE of warranty and/or epson?!?!

That is the big unknown... It was being discussed in a recent thread. Apparently there are technicians in Epson Japan who know how to fix these cameras (there are refurbished units trickling out), but the knowledge of fixing them (beyond rangefinder adjustment) is not being shared with repair persons elsewhere. This may change, but Epson has had a very poor track record of supporting this camera, to the point that many of their people are not even aware that it exists.

What will I do when my Epson RD-1 dies? I will bite the bullet and eventually buy the current digital Leica M, hopefully the issues will have been resolved by then.

 

[Sailor Ted]

Jump in... head first. My situation was exactly the same as yours. I am a long time Leica film M guy who due to practical concerns needed to take the digital plunge. I got my first R-D1s last week and far from missing my M6, I can't wait for another opportunity to shoot my R-D1s. It's like having a Leica M with a Polaroid back. Most enjoyable camera I've ever shot with and I HATE SLR’s so it's the only game in town for me. Period.

 

[emraphoto]

how was yours for rf alignment? it seems to be the thorn in the rd-1's side... i would have no problem doing the alignment myself but i do need a certain degree of "rugged reliability".
as well do you shoot on cv glass or leica? i have read of problems with close focusing using leica glas...

 

[emraphoto]

hi there sailor...

so any issues after a week or so of shooting? where did you purchase form? do you have a warranty of any kind?

if it wasn't for the reported issue's (and epsons lack of interest in them) i'd would take the plunge asap!

 

[saxshooter]

i have read of problems with close focusing using leica glas...

I didn't have any noticeable close focus problems on my cameras but some others did. They adjusted their rangefinder based on the lens they had, but I believe there may have been issues of the possibility of throwing other lenses off too. Not sure.

I think the smallish rangefinder patch is partly to blame. Hard to really see what is happening in there (images fusing together or not) and that is critical when you are shooting wide open at the closest focus. Hence my getting the viewfinder magnifier.

 

[Sailor Ted]

I shoot CV, Zeiss and Leica glass. After three days my RF went out of alignment however DAG will fix it and turn it around for me, shipped back by this comming Friday (hell get it on Monday and ship it to arrive back to me by weeks end). I am picking up a second body and I'll never look back to film again. I'll just have to be more careful then with my old M6 that is also at the moment out of alignment.

I can not tell you how much I love this camera or how well it has worked for me. As for Macro photography it's not my bag so I can't help you with this. However if like me you're a RF guy, can't shoot SLR's and get the results you want, need to go Digital, and don't like/want the M8 it's the only game in town.

One last thing- it's a pleasure to shoot with and the results are what you make of them so it's a very creative tool with excellent results. I cannot stress this enough.

Edit- I got it brand new from Robert White (it's an R-D1s) I shot for a week in Hong Kong and China and loved the results. I can't wait to get back in the field and it's been a loooong time since I've had this kind of passion for a camera- since I first got my M6 in the mid-90's.

 

[emraphoto]

thanx for the info ted... macro is not my gig either but wide open generally is. i'm very stoked that you like it so very much. i really want to just click "buy now" but man i need a reliable, working camera in my hands. i am totally commited to my m6ttl because it has NEVER failed me... EVER. it will always be in my bag. and i currently put at LEAST 1 roll of film a day through it. sometimes 8...
i'm glad dag is a great resource... anyone know what shutter life expectancy is?

 

[Sailor Ted]

If you shoot that much film, and if the R-D1s lasts one year, you'll be $$$ ahead of the game if you throw it in the trash in twelve months. Do the math 🙄

It's everything my M6 was and then some- having the same erogmomics/ user interface and being able to check your exposures in differnt current lighting conditions (review back- think Poloroid), not to mention ALLWAYS having the correct film for light on hand not to mention the post processing software (Epson RAW converter software ROCKS), this camera will pay for it's self in six months after that its money in the bank.

 

[emraphoto]

another question... how does one unload an rd-1? is it via usb to the computer or do you need a card reader?

 

[jlw]

do any of you work with an rd-1? any experiences with it (working) over a period of time? any serious shortcomings i need to be concerned about (beyond the obvious "where to repair issue") i am fairly confident that it will produce a suitable file size for my needs. i am also shooting some contract architectural stuff and was hoping the vc 15mm on an rd-1 would do the job.

I bought an R-D 1 as soon as they were available, and have used it for most of my photography ever since. I tend to work mostly indoors (theaters and studios) and don't bang my cameras around a lot, but I have had zero problems with it.

When the first firestorm of complaints about RF calibration started breaking out on RFF, I got so paranoid that I convinced myself that mine was "off" and sent it in to DAG for a tuneup -- he responded that it was fine, one of the better ones he'd seen, actually, so just tweaked it a bit for optimum performance and sent it back. Later I also adjusted the vertical alignment myself, following instructions here, but that was more to see if I could get it even "better" than because it was bad in the first place.

I think you'd be happier with the 12 than the 15 -- Sean Reid and other reviewers have said it produces less vignetting (although the vignetting compensation in Epson's raw converter does work really well.)

 

[RML]

Indeed. If you shoot a roll per day on average, the R-D1 will pay for itself soon enough, especially at the $1400 price point.

I did the same calculations a year and a half ago. The R-D1 was Eu2500 (from HK, including Eu 500 customs fees, and shipping). I was shooting a roll a day on average. At 3 euro per roll (colour neg) and 3 euro for developing, I was spending Eu 2100 per year on film and dev'ing alone. Add to that the enormous amount of time I was spending on scanning and PS'ing, and you can guess how quickly the R-D1 paid for itself.

 

[emraphoto]

thanx for taking the time to reply guys... it appears that most people who use one are ver, very happy with it. i guess it's now just a matter of finding one. i think it's odd that you can get refurb's from epson for 1400 (with the code) yet most used listings are $2000 and up. if anybody see's one about drop me a line!!!

 

[Sailor Ted]

thanx for taking the time to reply guys... it appears that most people who use one are ver, very happy with it. i guess it's now just a matter of finding one. i think it's odd that you can get refurb's from epson for 1400 (with the code) yet most used listings are $2000 and up. if anybody see's one about drop me a line!!!

Sadly I doubt we'll be seeing any for 1.4k anymore as Epson America seems to be back to selling New Old Stock (R-D1- not R-D1"s") for a full 3k retail hit. No I very seriously doubt you'll see any for the old refurb price any longer. Hopefully you can erase that number from your mind because it just is not going to happen (they also will not be selling more then a handful at the 3k price- a fair price for a NOS R-D1 would be 2k IMO.

Get your R-D1s either from Japan 2.2k under factory warranty, or from Robert White (UK) 2.5k also under warranty.

 

[AusDLK]

I'm very happy to see so many good things being said about the R-D1 in this thread and others.

It is everything that Leica should have done with that POS M8.

Ergonomically the R-D1 is totally M-like. The camera feels like an M. Hide the LCD, tape over the red light, and -- bingo! -- you would hardly know a difference from the M film camera experience that we all love -- until you want to.

Yes, it has an Achilles heel... but nonetheless the camera is a joy to handle and use.

 

[Sailor Ted]

I smell a POS but it's not the M8

 

[Didier]

...(quick note to all the "buy a real d-slr {canon whatever crowd}"... i have shot on all of them and CHOOSE to shoot on rangefinders. i will not be swayed into buying an canon 1ds so i can "look" like a "real" photographer. sorry all, bad p-net experiences...)

John
You say you neither want a dslr, nor a M8, but a digital rf - so there is only the Epson left anyway. Would I be a pro, I couldn't rely on this camera only. First, half of the time it's not usable because it's on the way to or from Robert White, Epson, DAG or stuck in the customs. Second, the rangefinder can be disaligned by a small knock only - not very welcome when working on a assessment. Third, the high ISO performance is poor. Point. The advantage of fast prime lenses is eaten up by the (outdated) non CMOS sensor. ISO 800 and 1600 are almost useless except you shoot b&w. If you talk about having two bodies, I'd reconsider the purchase of something complementary beside the R-D1 - a Canon dslr with good 3200 ISO performance is one option.
Didier

 

[Sailor Ted]

Deed,
True the high ISO noise is greater then the Canon but is it excessive? I have posted some shots taken at 1600 elsewhere in this forum (Fresh Seafood) and they seem adequate at least so far as noise is concerned. As to the thing going out of whack with a knock, you certainly are correct (mine lasted three days from new before vertical alignment went out). I could imagine however having two bodies or one R-D1s and an M8 (when available) but I could personally never shoot with a DSLR as I dislike the form factor nor can I imagine going back to film- holding my breath for a Digital Zeiss Ikon.

Yikes- I just checked my file info in the Fresh Seafood pictures and all but one are 400 iso not 1600 iso as stated. Only one shot (the first one) is in fact 1600 iso.