How did you scan the film ?

[Darthfeeble]

Two things that improved my scans are the glass to hold the negs flat and scan at the highest resolution you can get away with.

 

[shawn]

I design and promote it. however only selling the Rig locally (Vietnam). Sorry!

Looks like a nice holder. Add a way to block room light, otherwise you are going to get color shifts on color negatives. Even a cardboard tube over the lens down to the negative holder would help if it isn't too reflective inside. The inside of my cone is all covered in felt flocking.

 

[shawn]

Two things that improved my scans are the glass to hold the negs flat and scan at the highest resolution you can get away with.

If one is going for the highest resolution possible the multi-image pixel shift high resolution modes are great for scanning. On my S1R a single shot is 187 megapixel and every pixel has full color info (like a foveon], it also gives almost 2 stops more dynamic range. Adds 10 or 15 seconds to each capture for it to take the i shots and process that into the raw file.

 

[DownUnder]

There are many threads here dedicated to films scanning tips and techniques. I guess like @DownUnder expressed, it depends on film size and what results you are looking for.

Going by your handle @lotech, I'll show you some of my lo-tech techniques: 🙂

>> This one is from an old 118 size negative using an old iPad and iPhone11: <<

Digital Camera For Film Scanning

I'd like to set up something for film scanning but I don't currently own a digital camera that would be well suited for it. Anyone have a recommendation for an inexpensive, likely used, digital camera and lens that will spend most of it's life scanning film? Recommendations for the rest of the...

rangefinderforum.com

For something down and dirty, this is my poor man's scanning workflow for now:

Lay negative on old iPad 4 as light table (Pages app set to blank white page) -> iPhone 11 scan/snapshot -> upload to iMac Retina 5K and use Photos app to invert/adjust

Kodak 118 negative (3 1/4" x 4 1/4") my Dad took of my sister and cousin's later 50's - Kodak No. 3 Folding Hawk-eye Model 9 w/Bausch & Lomb Rapid Rectilinear Lens:


>> And this one is from using a small light table (Huion LED Light Box) and iPhone then convert/process in macOS Photos app <<

What have you just BOUGHT?

Could I get comments on this camera? https://shopgoodwill.com/item/185707563 It looks like it's been well cared for, but that could also mean sitting neglected on a shelf for decades. Probably factor in a CLA for both lens and body. I'm always suspicious when a simple mechanical camera is...

rangefinderforum.com

Such good sharpness on this 118 film scan. I see a distinct pattern in the image. Look at the faces. It's sort of like a fine tapestry weave, not objectionable but definitely visible.

I have hundreds of 616 negatives my stepdad took in the 1940s and 1950s, of our home town, families and of course me when I came into the picture, so to say. With a Kodak box Brownie, originally on Verichrome ortho, later on Verichrome Pan. Films were (mostly over)developed and the negatives contact printed at the local drug store by the duty pharmacist in the evenings. He told me years later that initially he used Kodak Tri-Chem packs for the films, but later he changed over to Dektol diluted 1-1. At the time I was struggling to get acceptable sharpness and not too much grain on Kodak Plus-X with D76, so I was thunderstruck by this revelation. Print developer for films. Who wudda thunk it??

I will now try to adapt some sort of setup for my V600 to scan the entire lot. Many are of family members who are no longer alive, so their kids and grandkids will surely appreciate getting prints.

 

[DownUnder]

I have an old canon canonscan 9000f and I use an old laptop with Windows 7 to scan images. No current drivers for it. It is good enough for what I need it and scans slides, 35mm and medium format. Setting it to 38000 dpi is pushing its limits a bit but I only post pics online so I am happy. The scangear software that came with it is very fiddly and sometimes gets the contrast completely wrong. I edit the images on GIMP.

I am using it for almost 15 years now so I got used to it but if it breaks I will get a similar specs Epson.

38000 dpi scans? You could contact print them and hang them on your walls as posters...

If my scanning times are any indication, you can do things like clean the house and write a novel in the time your scans take. I make myself useful with things like brushing the cats, but nowhere near the laptop-scanner setup.

I've found 3200 dpi to be the sweet spot for my 120s on an Epson V600. And 2400 dpi or 3200 dpi on the Plustek.

I can do A4s/8x10s from those scans (probably larger from the 120s but I' never print bigger than A4) without any technical glitches. Most of mine I've found are best hung on the walls and viewed from a respectable distance, but still quite passable in terms of general quality.

A commercial photographer I knew recommended that I ignore what he called "the marketing hype" about the more expensive scanners and instead buy the Epson V600 when I was looking for a MF scanner, some 15 years ago. Not sure if they are still available on the retail market, but a good used one wouldn't be all that expensive and it should serve you well for a long time. Mine has functioned without a glitch since 2010.

My Plustek and Epson are

 

[p.giannakis]

38000 dpi scans? You could contact print them and hang them on your walls as posters...

If my scanning times are any indication, you can do things like clean the house and write a novel in the time your scans take. I make myself useful with things like brushing the cats, but nowhere near the laptop-scanner setup.

I've found 3200 dpi to be the sweet spot for my 120s on an Epson V600. And 2400 dpi or 3200 dpi on the Plustek.

I can do A4s/8x10s from those scans (probably larger from the 120s but I' never print bigger than A4) without any technical glitches. Most of mine I've found are best hung on the walls and viewed from a respectable distance, but still quite passable in terms of general quality.

A commercial photographer I knew recommended that I ignore what he called "the marketing hype" about the more expensive scanners and instead buy the Epson V600 when I was looking for a MF scanner, some 15 years ago. Not sure if they are still available on the retail market, but a good used one wouldn't be all that expensive and it should serve you well for a long time. Mine has functioned without a glitch since 2010.

My Plustek and Epson are

Mine is more like 2400 to be honest. And takes a couple of minutes to scan a frame at 3200 - if not more.
My previous scanner was an Epson (I don't remember which) and did like the Epson software. The V600 is a great scanner, I've read this elsewhere too.

 

[Erik van Straten]

I always scan the prints and not the negatives. For scanning my prints I use a V600. Scanning prints is an art in itself. The art of scanning prints did not change the last 40 years or so.

 

[raydm6]

Marvelous sharpness on this 118 film scan. I see a distinct pattern in the image. Look at the faces. It's sort of like a fine tapestry weave, not objectionable but definitely visible.

Thanks @DownUnder. That was probably the pixelation from the iPad screen. I actually noticed it myself but I was just trying a quick scan technique.

Good luck with your 616 negatives. I’m sure there’s some great memories there!

 

[robert blu]

For many years I used a NikonCoolscan 5000 ED with the VueScan software for 35mm film.
Not very fast (at high resolution) but good.
Epson V600 for 120 film and Polaroid.

The problem with the Nikon scanner is that nobody repairs it or can make any maintenance. I have an address in the US but shipping to and back makes the cost too high. I should also ad the custom (and now tariffs!?!) .
I tried the BEEON from Leica in conjunction with the M10: it works but I need to make additional test to find the best lens to use with it .

Now I do not shoot much film.

 

[Godfrey]

For many years I used a NikonCoolscan 5000 ED with the VueScan software for 35mm film.
Not very fast (at high resolution) but good.
Epson V600 for 120 film and Polaroid.

The problem with the Nikon scanner is that nobody repairs it or can make any maintenance. I have an address in the US but shipping to and back makes the cost too high. I should also ad the custom (and now tariffs!?!) .
I tried the BEEON from Leica in conjunction with the M10: it works but I need to make additional test to find the best lens to use with it .

Now I do not shoot much film.

The Leitz BEOON is set up to use with a compact 50mm lens, like the 1950s generation Summicron 50mm f/2 Rigid or Collapsible. I've used it with a Leica Elmar 50/3.5, a Voigtländer Color-Skopar 50/2.5, and a modern Leica Summicron-M 50/2. I think it works best with the Color-Skopar 50/2.5 of these three lenses.

G

 

[DownUnder]

I always scan the prints and not the negatives. For scanning my prints I use a V600. Scanning prints is an art in itself. The art of scanning prints did not change the last 40 years or so.

View attachment 4860977

If you get results like your posted photos with an Epson, I will go on using mine until it blows up or burns.

 

[Zuiko-logist]

The Leitz BEOON is set up to use with a compact 50mm lens, like the 1950s generation Summicron 50mm f/2 Rigid or Collapsible. I've used it with a Leica Elmar 50/3.5, a Voigtländer Color-Skopar 50/2.5, and a modern Leica Summicron-M 50/2. I think it works best with the Color-Skopar 50/2.5 of these three lenses.

G

I just acquired a Nikon EL 50/2.8 to try on a BEOON and will report back if it works well.

 

[Coldkennels]

If you get results like your posted photos with an Epson, I will go on using mine until it blows up or burns.

To be honest, scanning prints like Erik's can be done with basically any flatbed. There's not a lot of difference between the models; hell, you can get scanned prints to match Erik's off the flatbed scanner attached to my Brother laser printer.

Scanning negatives is a very different beast.

 

[mtnbkr]

OK, lab scans, I was thinking The Darkroom in San Clemente. Any experience with them? I just want to send it in and get negatives and scans back.

I use The Darkroom from time to time but I don't feel they put much effort into getting dust and such off negatives before scanning. All of my scans come back with crud in the scans. When I scan my own, I put effort into removing dust and all and end up with pristine scans. All I use them for now is color.

Chris

 

[mdarnton]

You appear to reject the camera scanning idea, but I have a Nikon bellows with film carrier and lens permanently mounted and ready to go. Snap it on the camera and shoot. It's MUCH faster than any scanner and does a fine job. The whole rig cost under $200. I do focus it when I set it up, but since everything's locked down I really wouldn't even have to do that.

 

[robert blu]

With BEEON I only tried the 50F2 cron with the M10.
This is the set up.I think if I mask the light table around results could be better.

 

[robert blu]

And this :

 

[Godfrey]

Very nice, Robert!

You can mask the light table easily by just taping down some black construction paper around the BEOON, including into the BEOON 1:3 frame.

G

 

[robert blu]

As for 50 mm I only have a Leica 50 cron, CV 50F" Helkiar Anniversary Edition and CV 50 Heliar Classic 1.5

To be fair I do not like to make test, I prefer to use time making photos! This is why I used the cron and did not look for other lenses. Perhaps I should 🙂

 

[robert blu]

As for 50 mm I only have a Leica 50 cron, CV 50F" Helkiar Anniversary Edition and CV 50 Heliar Classic 1.5

To be fair I do not like to make test, I prefer to use time making photos! This is why I used the cron and did not look for other lenses. Perhaps I should 🙂

Or perhaps I should shoot film again!