How do I remove the Top Plate from an Ansco Super Regent?

[Siare]

Hi - I'm stumped!

I've obtained a nice little 35mm Ansco Super Regent w/3.5 Solinar, however in addition to a frozen focus, the R/F is disconected inside the top of the camera (I think). I fixed the focus with lighter fluid, etc., but although I want to clean and connect the R/F, I can NOT figure out how to get the top plate off.
Initially, there are 3 screws holding it down. The first screw under the Rewind is no problem, however the other two are nestled under the Film Winding knob which would not lift nor unscrew. I finally removed the circlip above the film spool and can now lift it roughly 1/8", but that's all. With a loupe, I can barely see something resembling a screw or pin in the shaft, but most of it is still below the plate and inacessable. I seem to be at a dead end!
Has anyone managed to perform this task?

thanking you in advance for anything you can offer,

Siare

 

[Solinar]

The winding knob twists off by turning it CLOCKWISE. The top cover will come off once this knob is removed. You'll probably have to hold the film spool steady with some type of cushioned tool while turning the top knob clockwise.

Before doing anything, you'll have to free up the focusing helicoiid. I remove the lens elements before doing this. Proper tools are a must. The shutter assembly is easily removed as well, provided that you have the proper tools.

With regards to the rangefinder, if it is stuck at all, it is mostly like is sluggish, not stuck due to similar type of sticky lubricant that is causing the lens helicoid to be frozen. After cleaning the RF lenses and using compressed air to blow off the mirror and beam splitter, you'll notice that this is one of the contrastiest RF patches available on a 1950's camera.

The vertical RF patch adjustment is on top the inner cover plate of the RF assembly. Do not attempt to adjust the painted over screw on the front of the RF assembly.

The RF horizontal adjuster is on the right hand strut as you look towards the front of the camera. Save this adjustment for last and be careful with the locking screw on top of this assembly. It will break if you over-tighten the bugger.

Once operational, the Solinar on this camera is tack sharp and the Synchro-Compur very quiet in operation. The non-selfcocking shutter is a blessing, as you'll never have to worry about a stripped cocking rack.

 

[Siare]

Thank you Solinar.

When you're not sure whether to push, pull, twist or shout, you risk irrepairable damage if you get too aggressive in any one direction. Turning the knob clockwise was a consideration, but when it did not cooperate with moderate pressure I backed off (chickened out!). As a matter of fact, I've had it inverted and the junction of shaft & knob wet with penetrating oil overnight, so I'll get to it shortly.

I certainly appreciate the R/F info as well and I'll let you know how I make out once the operation has been performed.

thanx again,

Siare

 

[Siare]

Done. Ready to run a test roll through it. Thank you so much, Solinar!! Without your advice this camera would probably have remained non-functional.

But I have to say that unscrewing the Winding Knob was a real leap of faith! For the benefit of anyone repeating this operation, with this PARTICULAR camera I would have probably ruined the plastic spool if I had gripped it hard enough to loosen the knob, as I had to apply a tremendous amount of torque.
Instead, as I had inadvertently removed the circlip which allowed the knob to raise 1/8" (mechanism under the cover had to be re-positioned later, by the way), I was able to see and grip the METAL shaft with a pair of modified $tore scissors while twisting the knob with taped pliers. Even then, I thought something might break due to excessive torque - they must have used `AGFA green' there as well!
Yes, the R/F was exactly as you described and loosened up nicely. Careful cleaning (except for the split image mirror) and reassembly found the R/F to match the `Focus with Scotch Tape' exercise with no adjustment required.

Again, for anyone facing the same or similar problem, please understand that I am not recommending this procedure, only relating what I had to do in order to get this camera operational again.

Siare