how do you shoot iso1600 film with canonet Ql17?

[skuidriver]

Hello there,

I got myself a Neopan 1600 film and tried to shoot it with my canonet ql17 which actually ends at iso800.
I tried to focus the object and check out which aperture is recommended... that switch to manual mode and shoot one aperture below the recommendation.. here are the results..

is there another way to shoot 1600? maybe focus than hold the trigger down and while that turning the speedring one speed faster?

any ideas?

 

[f16sunshine]

Shoot in in manual. You can get a value with the meter if you need it and adjust one stop in your head. If the meter set at 800 calls for f8 and 1/500 you will be good at f5.6 and 1/500 using your 1600 film. etc..etc..
Could be a good lesson in giving up the meter.

 

[Fawley]

A few thought in addition to the meterless shooting already recommended (and since you are doing a lot of night shots meters aren't that helpful anyway.

-Exposing the 1600 film at 800 will give you more shadow detail, which is maybe what you want. Your photos don't indicate a lack of contrast problem so maybe your subject matter and style suits EI 800.

-If the possiblity of losing the higlights becomes a problem because of the overexposure, you could just reduce development.

-What kind of battery are you useing? You could use the alkaline version of the PX625 which puts out 1.5V instead of 1.3 mercury which the camera was designed for. In tests I have done on my cameras this works out to an underexposure of about half a stop (the light meter thinks it is getting more light than it actually is) so an ASA setting of 800 will make the camera act like you are useing 1200. I have the same camera and this is what I am currently doing for HP5 pushed to 1600.

 

[damien.murphy]

..or shoot the Neopan 1600 at 800, if you don't need the speed. Most of what I've read of Neopan 1600 indicate that it is really a VERY good iso 400 film, that also looks well when pushed

 

[Mackinaw]

Forget the Canonet's built-in meter and use a hand-held meter instead.

Jim B.

 

[skuidriver]

thanks for the quick replies!

f16sunshine,

Shoot in in manual. You can get a value with the meter if you need it and adjust one stop in your head. If the meter set at 800 calls for f8 and 1/500 you will be good at f5.6 and 1/500 using your 1600 film. etc..etc..
Could be a good lesson in giving up the meter.

isn't it the other direction? when it calls for f2.8 i'll be good at f4 for example?

Fawley, I think I'll give it a try to just shoot 1600film at 800 and maybe reduce development.. or not.. because of the "neopan 1600 actually is a 400 film thing" which I read about some time ago..

I'm using a SR44 battery in a self made PX625 battery adapter which i got from a guy from the netherlands.. so i think the meterings are correct as far as i know! but you're right just let the camera think that it's getting more light as it gets could solve the 1600 problem too. maybe i can just swtich battery to a alkaline PX625 when i'm loading a 1600 film..

Forget the Canonet's built-in meter and use a hand-held meter instead.

Jim, what hand-held meter can you recommend? i've never had one.


fabian

 

[GSNfan]

Do you have a digital p&s at home?

 

[Fawley]

Light meters.

I have two Gossen Pilot selenium light meters. Both bought on eBay for very little money. Amazingly, considering their age, both still work and are pretty accurate. They are very small and convenient to carry around and use. I have a Lunasix CdS meter as well, but I find I always use the Pilots because of their size. I always have one with me when useing rangefinder cameras, whether the camera has a working meter or not. Its nice to know the light level ahead of time. Also, they are more discreet to use than holding a camera up to your eye.

 

[xwhatsit]

When I shoot at EI 1600 on my Lynx 1000 (45/1.8, not too far away from your QL17), it's nearly always at night, indoors; too dark for the poor old selenium meter. So I do what they used to do; shoot wide open, and pick either 1/125th, 1/60th or 1/30th depending on how I feel about the light. Mostly 1/60th under the normal conditions I experience. You'd be surprised how close things are! Needed no practice at this, shot a roll, negs looked perfect. B&W is very forgiving, even when pushed. There's not much harm in overexposing either, it helps fill out the shadows, and nobody cares much about blown highlights in night scenes.

Go manual, and if you're shooting in available light (which is why you're using an E.I. of 1600, right?), then you don't even need the meter. My Weston Master V doesn't really work (reliably, or at all) in that kind of low light anyway.

 

[skuidriver]

thank you all,

maybe I'll try a hand held meter when I find one not that expensive..unfortunately I've no p&s but I don't like the idea very much to carry around another cam just for metering...

 

[oftheherd]

For a meter I like the Gossen Luna Pro SBC since it has a silicon blue cell (SBC) which is more sensitive in low light, and doesn't have the memory of the CdS cell. Unfortunately, not only is it a little more expensive than some other meters, it is about 60% the size of the Canonet.

But frankly, whatever you are doing now seems to be working quite well. your photos look well exposed to me.

 

[Soeren]

Shoot in in manual. You can get a value with the meter if you need it and adjust one stop in your head. If the meter set at 800 calls for f8 and 1/500 you will be good at f5.6 and 1/500 using your 1600 film. etc..etc..
Could be a good lesson in giving up the meter.

Apart from the wrong direction you are right 🙂 1600 needs one stop less light than 800. 😀 sorry couldnt help it.
As for handheld meters. The small sekonic 308 (i think) is a compact one.
Best regards

 

[dmr]

I was able to recalibrate one of my GIIIs to use ASA/ISO 1600. Surf here:

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25305

 

[GSNfan]

unfortunately I've no p&s but I don't like the idea very much to carry around another cam just for metering...

A digital p&s and a light meter are almost the same size, but a digicam has the ability to meter for night scenes that the best hand held light meter cannot. not to mention a digicam is also a backup camera just in case, not to mention you can shoot some of the casual stuff with it. but most importantly with a digital camera in manual mode you have the option to see in real time the results of adjusting exposure in the LCD, also the ability to use three metering mode of spot, center and matrix/evaluative... Next time you don't like an idea, at least find out way that is the case.

 

[f16sunshine]

Haha !
Yes. Too much coffee that day. Brain and keyboard not coordinating 😉
But you know what I meant 🙂

 

[skuidriver]

@gsnfan: yeah okay you're right 🙂 maybe I just don't like the idea of buying one! 😉 but maybe I should find out if my dad or so has one not in use...

 

[Frontman]

A handheld meter need not be expensive. Right now in my pocket I am carrying a very old Sekonic Leader 2 that I bought used in a camera shop for $3. Surprisingly enough it works properly and is accurate. In most cases I don't bother with it, but on occasions where I am unsure of the light it comes in handy.