How good is the jupiter 12

See for yourself. I like it very much.

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I have a black Jupiter-12 made by LZOS. One of the main reasons for me to get a FED 2 is to use this lens again when my FED 3 broke. It's nothing extortionary but, I like what it can do. I also tend to shoot it wide open in dark places with tri-x pushed in some way.

Might as well post some pictures.




 
I bought the J12 and the Orion for wider than normal shots. The J12 is as good as people say, but the shots from the Orion I thought were more pleasing; it's not as sharp or contrasty and it vignettes a bit, but for wider than normal I use it more than the J12.
 
I have my first J-12 by the same time the previous comment was posted on this thread 🙂
Followed by research and purchased, white one in pristine condition. It was OK lens with moderate contrast. And on f2.8 it was giving some character.


First Approach. Jupiter. 12. Part One. by Kostya Fedot, on Flickr

Back in 2013 local Walmart was still processing C-41 and I have tried white J-12 on color and with flash.


Let it snow. by Kostya Fedot, on Flickr

But sold it after switching to LTM Color Skopar 35 2.5.....

Couple of weeks ago I decided to try black version on J-12 on M4-2. Earlier this week I received Lytkarino made in 1991. And now I'm in the process of determining if I need it to be re-shimmed.

This at f2.8 with original shim on M4-2 by original Leitz LTM-M adapter:

M4-2_J12PolypanF_YF_HC110B9minMay312016123.JPG


I like it, because it is different in rendering from Summarit-M 35 2.5 which I have as sharp and neutral Leica lens.
 
On my J-12, Kiev mount, the f-stop markings are optimistic, i.e. f/4 is more like f/5.6. This might be just the case on my particular example, but you might want to test this if you've just bought the lens. Otherwise I'm happy with my J-12 -- I almost never shoot wide open.
 
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Jupiter 12 35mm f2.8 in Kiev mount on a Nikon SP. Stopped down to f11/F16 surprisingly straight rendition and not too much edge fall off. Orwo UN 54 in D23 two bath developer.

Hi Tom, I am a post Cubist myself but still couldn't resist staring that this thing for an hour! And thanks for endorsing me on Linkedin for skills I don't possess.
 
...Otherwise I'm happy with my J-12 -- I almost never shoot wide open.

After four days of playing with shims in J-12 on M4-2 I realised what with original shim it is accurate in focus wide open. While at 5.6 it shifts, but not a big deal.

This is f5.6 and focus is still where I need it.
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It's not bad as a portrait lens either.

Yep! It works well for family pictures 🙂

f2.8 on M4-2.
M4-2_J12PolypanF_YF_HC110B9minMay312016124.JPG



Jupiter 12 35mm f2.8 in Kiev mount on a Nikon SP. Stopped down to f11/F16 surprisingly straight rendition and not too much edge fall off. Orwo UN 54 in D23 two bath developer.

I'm not sure if edges fall off is the problem with this lens. Or any lens. 🙂
 
Both my examples (Kiev, silver version and LTM, black version) I find to be sharp and contrasty. Don't really have anything else in that FL to compare them with but I've no complaints.

I will echo that with same configurations (except both black versions). currently only using LTM version, though, just because I'm not as crazy about the Kiev as I was when I first bought it.
 
I love this lens, both on digital and film.
Yes, it seems that most black J-12 from 70s and specially 80s fit Canons and some digitals, but from what I see it's is a bit of a lottery.
But from what I read around 80s ones have much more possibilities to fit.
My 1986 J-12 fits my Fuji X-E1 (1.5x crop). I also use it on my CLE.

1986 Jupiter-12 @ f4, near mfd, on Lomo 100 film (Noritsu scanner). Minolta CLE :

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(a couple more examples in my gallery)
 
I've been interested in picking one up for my A7 as a super compact option.

I'm not sure you can mount the J12 because the rear element on the lens will touch the sensor. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

At least that was my experience with the A6000. Yes, the A6000 has a smaller sensor which has a "frame" or a border around it, but the problem was the same - the sensor is too close for the lens to screw on all the way.
 
>I'm not sure you can mount the J12 because the rear element

Many are using the J-12 on the A7, maybe using specimens from the 80s too.


btw, I made some galleries on Flickr to study this lens character:

Jupiter-12 ~ Юпитер-12 (I) : http://flic.kr/y/G9Nya7
Jupiter-12 ~ Юпитер-12 (II) : http://flic.kr/y/HSviW3
Jupiter-12 ~ Юпитер-12 (III) : http://flic.kr/y/2hDgxaD

at the end of each gallery are some examples on digital, including A7, M8, R-D1, etc.
 
I'm not sure you can mount the J12 because the rear element on the lens will touch the sensor. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

At least that was my experience with the A6000. Yes, the A6000 has a smaller sensor which has a "frame" or a border around it, but the problem was the same - the sensor is too close for the lens to screw on all the way.

As someone who has been using the J-12 on an A7 for a couple years I have to say that the lens' rear element does not touch the sensor.

I also own an A6000. The rear element doesn't touch the sensor but it won't fit on the camera either. The sensor on the A6000 is counter sunk in a plastic block in a hole that is no larger than the APS-C sensor itself. The rear element of the J-12 is wider than the hole the sensor sits in so the lens is stopped by the plastic mount, not the sensor itself.

Considering that the Sony APS-C sensor should be the same distance from the lens mount flange as a Sony full frame sensor, a J-12 could work on the A6000 if the plastic sensor mount didn't block the way. I have no interest in taking my A6000 apart to modify it to prove my theory however. 🙄
 
The sensor on the A6000 is counter sunk in a plastic block in a hole that is no larger than the APS-C sensor itself. The rear element of the J-12 is wider than the hole the sensor sits in so the lens is stopped by the plastic mount, not the sensor itself.

This is good information. Thanks! Yeah I don't think I'll take apart my A6000 either...
 
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