how to choose the times for split filter printing

[mike rosenlof]

My experience with split grade printing is still fairly limited, but here's my process.


Test strip with grade 00 filter. I do increasing intervals 2-4-8-16-32 seconds, but whatever works for you. Choose 00 exposure based on getting desired details in the highlights.


Test strip with chosen 00 exposure everywhere, then increasing intervals with the 5 filter. This second strip shows what the final print will look like in each interval. Chose 5 exposure based on overall appearance, but mostly looking at the shadows here.


I have a two channel timer which is a great feature for this printing technique. Mine is a gra-lab 645.



I tend to do an edge burn on my prints. I'll normally do that with 00 filter



Like I said, limited experience for me with this technique. One weekend worth of printing so far, but I have 20+ years of darkroom experience, so I can compare to what I've done before. My impression so far is that this technique without dodge and burn is probably exactly equivalent to some contrast grade, but I think this technique gets me to that grade a bit faster than using a single exposure at some single contrast.

 

[mike rosenlof]

Lets talk about on this example.
I tested them separately not cumulative. Each are 5 sec interval. What would be your exposure for each?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Rls0oMmhig_RYkU0DUVd9lXnYS24PySR/view?usp=drivesdk

OK, I'll play.



I would pick the 15 sec for the low contrast exposure. No more than 10 for the high contrast. Maybe more like 7. You still might need to dodge the boy some. I would probably dodge him for about half the high contrast exposure.



I would do the high contrast test strip on top of the 15 sec low contrast exposre. See the combined result that way.



Was your second test strip developed unevenly? The 15 sec band looks like maybe.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

Awesome explanation by Erik. I can't recall 00 and 5 before. Was trying all bunch of numbers and it drove me nuts.

I use cheap Vivitar enlarger and the only thing which moves is filter drawer. No problem even if is is not $$$ enlarger. 🙂

 

[presspass]

I've been using the splitgrade automated system for nearly 25 years. It may not hit the right contrast on the first print, but it's close enough so I can get it where I want it on the second print. I don't know if that system is still made, but if you print a lot, it pays for itself in a year or two.
I can think of two advantages of split grade printing. First, you can get a grade that's not available with a single filter - 2.3 for instance. Second, you can dodge just the grade 5.0 or just the grade 0.00, depending on what you want.
If you can find it, Jonathan Eastland had a very informative book about split grade printing. It deals well with the process of test strips and which grade to print first.
Once you have your own system in place, it will go quickly and give you results unavailable with the single filter process.

 

[Requin]

Erik van Straten's explanation is correct. A split grade enlargement can be easily achieved when using the Heiland Splitgrade Controller System. It's very easy to achieve prints with the right tonality - no more guessing and testing involved.
You adjust the enlarger aperture, make two measurements (lights and shadows), dial in your enlargement paper and are now ready to exposure your enlarging paper. Developing as usual and you're done. And it simply works.
Information @WWW.heilandelectronic.de

Just my 2 cents

 

[Erik van Straten]

Sure, my point is however any filter between 00 and 5 passes a mixtures of the only (in terms of what the paper responds to, subtractive filters will also pass other, irrelevant wavelenghts) green or blue that 00 and 5 pass, respectively.

Yes, but what makes this working, is the difference in time. The duration of the exposure through filter 00 is different than through filter 5. When the filters 00 and 5 are replaced by a single "mixed" filter, there is only one exposure time and not two separate ones that can be varied.


Erik.

 

[Erik van Straten]

By cumulative exposure I mean the combined (cumulative) effect of the 00 and the 5 exposures.

When the filters 00 and 5 are replaced by a single "mixed" filter, there is only one exposure time and not two separate ones that can be varied. The two exposures are essential for split grade printing.


Erik.

 

[Erik van Straten]

Erik van Straten's explanation is correct. A split grade enlargement can be easily achieved when using the Heiland Splitgrade Controller System. It's very easy to achieve prints with the right tonality - no more guessing and testing involved.
You adjust the enlarger aperture, make two measurements (lights and shadows), dial in your enlargement paper and are now ready to exposure your enlarging paper. Developing as usual and you're done. And it simply works.
Information @WWW.heilandelectronic.de

Just my 2 cents

Yes, I know the Heiland system, but it is absurdly expensive. A set filters from Ilford is much cheaper and works the same.


Erik.

 

[Erik van Straten]

The split grade system is invented by Pictorial Service in Paris, PICTO, in the 1950's. It was part of the success of Cartier-Bresson and others. The prints get a mixture of softness in the light parts and deep solid blacks. I think the first paper with variable contrast was Varigram from Dupont. Not 100% sure, however.


Erik.

 

[retinax]

When the filters 00 and 5 are replaced by a single "mixed" filter, there is only one exposure time and not two separate ones that can be varied. The two exposures are essential for split grade printing.


Erik.

Of course, I haven't written anything contrary to that. Doesn't matter, what I mean is the method Mike Rosenlof explained.

 

[jbielikowski]

Lets talk about on this example.
I tested them separately not cumulative. Each are 5 sec interval. What would be your exposure for each?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Rls0oMmhig_RYkU0DUVd9lXnYS24PySR/view?usp=drivesdk

you're doing it wrong🙂. you need to make a grid, like this one:
https://flic.kr/p/byoLxV

 

[jawarden]

Split grade printing is at least to some extent a con. ....

Make the best print you can, dodge any shadows that need it during the main exposure, then turn the contrast down and burn any highlights that need it. Split printing, to me, makes printing harder because it increases the variables.

Marty

Not to be argumentative but isn't the bold part above a version of a split grade technique? I mean if you're dodging with one grade and burning with another grade you are split grade printing, right? It doesn't have to be 00 and 5, it could be 00 and 3 for instance.

That's the main benefit to split grade as far as I'm concerned, i.e. the ability to dodge shadows without blowing out light areas, and burning the hilights without ruining the shadows. That's hard to do if you're using only a grade 3 contrast filter for instance.

I haven't tried your approach but like "normal" split grade it makes sense to me as a way to achieve dodge and burn flexibility, if I've understood your approach correctly.

 

[retinax]

you're doing it wrong🙂. you need to make a grid, like this one:
https://flic.kr/p/byoLxV

That would be super useful if you had a print that had both highlights and shadows all over so you'd get both in each square...

 

[megido]

The RH designs timer has a split grade function ie: 2 seperate timers. Once each exposure has been decided on it also possible to see what the overall contrast is.

 

[Erik van Straten]

The RH designs timer has a split grade function ie: 2 seperate timers. Once each exposure has been decided on it also possible to see what the overall contrast is.

Yes, also for color there are timers like that, but on my Hauck MSA II I can program up to 10 different exposures. Sometimes this is handy when there is a lot of burning to do.

Erik.

 

[megido]

Yes, also for color there are timers like that, but on my Hauck MSA II I can program up to 10 different exposures. Sometimes this is handy when there is a lot of burning to do.

Erik.

This is also possible with the RH timer. One can program a sequence of exposures for each channel. Very handy!

 

[jbielikowski]

That would be super useful if you had a print that had both highlights and shadows all over so you'd get both in each square...

just pick a representative part of the picture and make small squares.

 

[retinax]

just pick a representative part of the picture and make small squares.

I find it hard enough to find areas with even highlights and shadows, respectively, for test strips. Wouldn't work for me and wouldn't have worked for the dude who posted your link if he hadn't found the right combination in a square with both highlight and maayyybe dark shadow accidentally, many other squares in his example would have been useless. But great if it works for you.

 

[LeicaFoReVer]

That would be super useful if you had a print that had both highlights and shadows all over so you'd get both in each square...

Yes very comprehensive way but doesn't work as each square might be in a highlight or shadows difficult to judge, I mean it is a bit of overkill to me.

 

[LeicaFoReVer]

OK, I'll play.



I would pick the 15 sec for the low contrast exposure. No more than 10 for the high contrast. Maybe more like 7. You still might need to dodge the boy some. I would probably dodge him for about half the high contrast exposure.



I would do the high contrast test strip on top of the 15 sec low contrast exposre. See the combined result that way.



Was your second test strip developed unevenly? The 15 sec band looks like maybe.

Yes that is what I did and it turned out great. I dont have a pro eye so the way my son looked didn't bother me so no dodging done. I will post the result after takin a better photo as mobile phone isn't ideal for this actually I need to scan it. Don't remember about the high contrast strip. It is possible.

I chose the exposure with a bit of luck. Could you please explain how you chose so maybe I can learn something.