giganova
Well-known
It's emulsion buildup -- as I said before -- not chemicals.
What films are you using?
What films are you using?
How to clean reels?
- Thread starter Jake06
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michaelwj
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michaelwj
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Silver Halide is a chemical 🙂
But in seriousness, it is, but other chemicals could make it worse.
Pioneer
Veteran
Might be easier to list what I don't use.
Let's see, in the last couple months I have developed;
- Delta 3200
- HP5+
- FP4+
- PanF
- CMS20
- Efke 25
- Rollei Retro 400
- TMX
- TriX
- AE Prem 400
- AEU 100
- AEU 400
- Street Pan 400
The majority has been the Street Pan 400 recently.
My reels don't come close to that.
What film and developer are you using?
ChrisPlatt
Thread Killer
x-ray
Veteran
A friend that owned a pro lab used toilet bowl cleaner to soak reels in. He claimed it was as good as system cleaner for his processors.
White vinegar??? White vinegar is nothing more than dilute acetic acid which is stop bath. If it worked then your stop bath would remove the gunk.
If you rinse thoroughly after you finish the process and have done the photo flo bath you shouldn't have that buildup. In any case if you're not rinsing your reels thoroughly you're carrying contaminates over into your developer when you run the next batch. That's certainly not good.
You might also consider running them in the dishwasher but dont use heat to dry them. Just air dry or you might melt them.
I use stainless exclusively and have never had any buildup because I rinse them thoroughly after every run.
White vinegar??? White vinegar is nothing more than dilute acetic acid which is stop bath. If it worked then your stop bath would remove the gunk.
If you rinse thoroughly after you finish the process and have done the photo flo bath you shouldn't have that buildup. In any case if you're not rinsing your reels thoroughly you're carrying contaminates over into your developer when you run the next batch. That's certainly not good.
You might also consider running them in the dishwasher but dont use heat to dry them. Just air dry or you might melt them.
I use stainless exclusively and have never had any buildup because I rinse them thoroughly after every run.
michaelwj
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That particular reel probably saw
Fomapan 400
HP5
FP4
TriX
Tmax400
Some other random rolls...
Pioneer
Veteran
I think it may have a bit to do with dilution xray. I definitely do not use white vinegar at 1:1 as a stop bath. White vinegar works great on dried soap scum which, btw, is not a great lubricant once it is dried on your reels. It is a bit like the ring around your tub after a bath. Let it dry and you will find there is a huge difference between the porcelain (or plastic) of the tub and the soap scum ring.
Although the toilet cleaner idea sounds good too. I may have to try that since it smells better than vinegar (assuming I don't forget between now and then.) 🙂
Jake06
Established
I used boiling water with the vinegar in the tank and then dried them with a hairdryer and they were absolutely fine.
Mainly T-Max 400 (old emulsion, I have a stock in the freezer)
But also:
Kentmere 100 & 400
HP5+
FP4+
Pan 400
Occasionally Delta 100 & 400
bhop73
Well-known
I wouldn't say people that don't use steel are drooling idiots.. but steel is best. 🙂
...(for me anyway)
Honestly though, I never have to "clean" my reels, just a rinse and let 'em dry. 5 years on the same reels and no problems. My Paterson reels lasted about a year or so before it started bending my film from the build-up.
CMur12
Veteran
Vinegar is used a lot to remove hard water deposits from clothes irons, coffee makers, shaving brushes, etc. So if the problem is related to hard water, vinegar should be helpful.
- Murray
mpaniagua
Newby photographer
It is. My wife is a nurse and she use it to remove blood from her clothes. I use it my plastic reels and it does a pretty good job. Trick is not let it build up.
I agree. I have a couple of dozen or so reels and rather than worry about them when they become problematic, I prefer to know that I can pick up any one from any tank and it will load fine. After use I give each one a quick scrub following a soak in hot water and detergent, therefore each reel takes only a minute or less to scrub, because they're already very clean, I'm merely keeping them that way. Result = I rarely have any loading issues, and any I do have, normally relate to the film involved rather than the reel.
I have dropped the odd Paterson reel occasionally (usually after rinsing them) and they generally bounce pretty well from waist height. I have never used steel reels personally. I have read, though, that they can be bent, and if this happens, they're often stuffed. If so they won't be a lot of use to anyone no matter how clean they are. Perhaps someone who knows more about this point can provide some input? Because it seems to me that despite the protestations of the steel reel brigade, neither type is perfect. Personally I'm happy with my Paterson reels, but if others prefer steel it is no skin off my nose.
Cheers
Brett
Erik van Straten
Veteran
I still have my first Paterson reel, 45 years old now, it became dark brown, but is still perfectly usable. The old tank itself is long gone because of a crack.
Erik.
Johnmcd
Well-known
I used to use steel exclusively but they can be an absolute bugger to load if they have been knocked enough to put out of alignment but not enough to notice.
For the last decade it has been only Jobo plastic reels. I use photoflo while the film is still in the reel (apparently another 'no-no) and just rinse in hot water afterwards. No build up that I can see though after extended use they brown slightly but seem just as easy to load.
Loading is super simple. Just by 'pushing' the film I can usually get it all the way round with no effort at all. If it's a bit humid then a little help with thumb and forefinger against the cut-out area (only on Jobo reels as far as I know) finishes the job. Same technique with 120 film.
FWIW, I've used both and find the plastic much easier. Having said that I never mastered the Patterson reels and the ball bearing method. In a panic I buy any Jobo reels and tanks I see for a fair price on ebay 🙂
For the last decade it has been only Jobo plastic reels. I use photoflo while the film is still in the reel (apparently another 'no-no) and just rinse in hot water afterwards. No build up that I can see though after extended use they brown slightly but seem just as easy to load.
Loading is super simple. Just by 'pushing' the film I can usually get it all the way round with no effort at all. If it's a bit humid then a little help with thumb and forefinger against the cut-out area (only on Jobo reels as far as I know) finishes the job. Same technique with 120 film.
FWIW, I've used both and find the plastic much easier. Having said that I never mastered the Patterson reels and the ball bearing method. In a panic I buy any Jobo reels and tanks I see for a fair price on ebay 🙂
joeswe
Well-known
Here's what mine look like with about 10 rolls through them (rear) and about 40 (front). The gunk is pretty obvious, and removing it makes the world of difference.
Michael, how much rolls of film do you usually send through a liter (or gallon) of fixer?
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To answer the OP's question, here are my 2 cents
(1) I do not use any kind of mechanical/abrasive device for cleaning reels, as I am not sure if this will harm the material in the long run and possibly worsen the tendency to build up gunk
(2) for general cleaning, every once in a while I put the reels in a 40°C solution of common cleaning tabs for dental prosthetics
(3) if necessary, build up of silver compounds is easily removed by bathing the reels in a c41 or ra4 bleach/blix (or simply using the reels to process CN film)
x-ray
Veteran
Here's what mine look like with about 10 rolls through them (rear) and about 40 (front). The gunk is pretty obvious, and removing it makes the world of difference.
Another thing that will clean your reels is chlorine laundry bleach like Clorox. Sodium hypochlorite (chlorine bleach) will strip the gelatin and emulsion right off of film. I'd dilute it about 1:4 and soak the reels a while. If needed use full strength.
Make certain you wash the bleach off thoroughly. The bleach is a moderately strong acid and will neutralize your developer quickly if there's any residual left on the reel not to mention ruining your film.
Be careful not to get bleach on your clothes or furniture. It'll yuin them quickly. I've done that🙁
gns
Well-known
I always used steel reels. Never cleaned them... don't they get "washed" with the film??? I always just gave them a quick rinse after the photo-flo and done.
Your picture of the dirty reels did remind my of this somewhat odd photo project though...
http://www.johncyrphotography.com/page1/developertrays.html.
Good luck with the cleaning.
Your picture of the dirty reels did remind my of this somewhat odd photo project though...
http://www.johncyrphotography.com/page1/developertrays.html.
Good luck with the cleaning.
Photog9000
Well-known
I also use stainless steel reels. I am still using the same 4 that I bought back in the late 1970's! 😀 And I just wash them clean and wipe them dry at the end of a developing session.
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Pioneer
Veteran
Reading all the posts here it sort of sounds to me as if either type will work fine, as long as you take care of them regularly. Kind of like everything else in life. If you just use it and don't take care of it eventually it will give you problems.
Kind of what happened to me the last time around. I wasn't paying attention to them and they caused a few problems. I'm a slow learner and I make a lot of mistakes, but usually not more than a couple of times.
Kind of what happened to me the last time around. I wasn't paying attention to them and they caused a few problems. I'm a slow learner and I make a lot of mistakes, but usually not more than a couple of times.
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