Trius
Waiting on Maitani
Bleach (Clorox/Javex) is a base, not an acid.
How to clean reels?
- Thread starter Jake06
- Start date
- Latest activity Latest activity:
- Replies 82
- Views 6K
michaelwj
----------------
I usually mix up 20oz of fixer and put 15 rolls through it max. If I notice it getting dirty I dump it. So anywhere from 5-15.
Dogman
Veteran
Bon Ami and an old toothbrush.
Steel is easier to clean.
Steel is easier to clean.
kbg32
neo-romanticist
Steel is reel.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Highway 61
Revisited
gns
Well-known
Seems like those reels require so much fussing that it would drive any reasonable person to digital.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
mpaniagua
Newby photographer
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Highway 61
Revisited
True, yet "fussing" may not be the appropriate term. "Handling" would be closer. If you work cleanly and quietly there is no "fuss" of any kind at processing films and darkroom wet-printing... 😉
And in spite of what some people unable to consider anything else than what they do might say and/or write, the feelings aren't the same - how could they - as those you have by spending hours in front of a screen at properly post-processing digital images files.
The film photography processing chain is something some people really like. And liking what you're doing isn't a bad thing, in general.
gns
Well-known
Good point. Except that we're talking more about doing the dishes than cooking.
gns
Well-known
Did you notice any change in the taste of your food?
Blaidd_Drwgg
Member
At our school we use the Jobo reels and tanks. They are used by everyone (the few Kindermann tanks and reels we have are ignored, I have never seen someone use them, although one day I will try them just out of curiosity) and hardly anyone ever cleans them after use. The only precaution is that the flo is in seperate trays in the developing chambers, so they never get soapy. Once or twice a semester I flood the big sink they are dried and stored in.
Anyway, when I pick them out of the pile of reels (honestly, the mess there is one exceptional example for the tragedy of the commons phenomenon), I take the darkest ones I find, because they are the easiest to load. The two new ones I use at home in emergencies have seen 3 or 4 rolls each and are substantially harder to load. I have never seen differences in development between the old and new reels, but also never did density tests about that.
Anyway, when I pick them out of the pile of reels (honestly, the mess there is one exceptional example for the tragedy of the commons phenomenon), I take the darkest ones I find, because they are the easiest to load. The two new ones I use at home in emergencies have seen 3 or 4 rolls each and are substantially harder to load. I have never seen differences in development between the old and new reels, but also never did density tests about that.
kbg32
neo-romanticist
All the years I've had steel reels, I've never had to clean them. Everything was done from developing to wash on the reel. Then into a Kinderman film dryer. I've had the same reels for 40 years. I tried Paterson when I first started developing on my own. I hated them. Tanks took too much chemistry, and I always got air bubbles no matter how hard I tapped those tanks. Sometimes those little ratchet balls on the reels would go missing rendering them useless. Steel reels and tanks are so easy to maintain.
______
Well-known
I tried loading 35mm and 120 on Paterson reels back in the 1970s, and it was a PITA, so I have stuck with SS for the past half century. I've never cleaned my SS reels and tanks. There has been no need. Think of all the time and aggravation I've saved. Not to mention toothbrushes.
ChrisPlatt
Thread Killer
Fussing?
Fussing?
I can't think of anything more tedious than digital post-processing.
OTOH developing film and making wet prints is more like play! 🙂
Chris
Fussing?
I can't think of anything more tedious than digital post-processing.
OTOH developing film and making wet prints is more like play! 🙂
Chris
Jake06
Established
Alright, I'll bite. Anyone know any UK suppliers of stainless steel gear?
x-ray
Veteran
Actually full strength white vinegar is 5% acetic acid which is roughly the same dilution as working strength stop bath. White vinegar is nothing more than synthetically produced acetic acid as is the acetic acid that's used for stop bath. Indicator stop is 28% undiluted and if I remember correctly but memory might have failed, has potassium permanganate in it to indicate when the acidity is depleted.
Before I started using TF4 fixer I used to dilute glacial acetic acid from 98% to 5% to use. I don't recommend this for people not trained in handling strong acids. If you should use glacial handle it with extreme care. It can cause severe burns. Also ALWAYS add the acid to the water slowly. Never add water to acid as there is a great deal of heat released as it mixes and there's a good chance you'll get a face full of acid.
GarageBoy
Well-known
The only thing I hate about SS is slow filling and draining times (and no, dropping the eels into the chemicals is not an option, I don't have a darkroom)
I wash the plastic reels in as hot of a water as I can and scrub it with a toothbrush - is Photo Flo better removed with a base or an acid?
I wash the plastic reels in as hot of a water as I can and scrub it with a toothbrush - is Photo Flo better removed with a base or an acid?
Similar threads
